Early spring bloomers for buffalo grass lawn
WoodsTea 6a MO
8 years ago
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wisconsitom
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Planning a buffalo grass lawn
Comments (18)Piling into this late ... texas-weed is misinformed on several points, and I have the lawn to prove it. 1 - It doesn't need horizon-to-horizon sun. My lawn gets part morning shade from some big trees to the east and south and it's actually doing a bit better (taller, silkier) in those areas. 2 - UV Verde can handle the heat just fine. See the link. 3 - I don't know about traffic. All we have is quail running across it. If it was lightly played on by a child and a small mostly indoors dog, it might do just fine. 3 - Soil doesn't need to be heavy clay, it just can't be pure sand. As for the watering and mowing, it's taking 1/2 the water of Bermuda and doesn't really need to be mowed. Here is a link that might be useful: Buffalo grass in Phoenix AZ, 4 summers experience...See MoreTemporary shed on lawn over late fall, winter, early spring
Comments (3)If you put it up on blocks there is a chance the that is the only part that dies. Meaning under the blocks. That sounds reasonable, but I am skeptical. After I built my deck, which is elevated about 4 feet off the ground, it was amazing how fast all of the grass under it died. And there is at least indirect light and some dripping water under there. It would likely be dark under a temporary structure on low blocks....See MoreHelp w/ changing 3 acres of native grass/weeds to buffalo grass
Comments (6)I must not have been very clear. Buffalo grass is a native grass in my area. It is mixed in with other grasses in pastures and prairie throughout the natural landscape. As our lot currently stands, the weeds (mostly tumbleweeds) have taken over any good prairie grass that is there. We are not planting the 3 acres to lawn, we are planting buffalo grass, which is something we can keep maintained, is native and does not need watered. We are planting over 150 trees and shrubs and plan on introducing a variety of planting beds throughout the property with native wildflowers and ornamental grasses. I feel like we are improving our landscape in a very responsible way and am simply asking for help doing this correctly. Our lot is across from a golf course and although it is in the country (our lot backs a pasture for grazing cattle and circle of corn) it does have to have the look of a manicured area. I frankly feel that people in this area are very good at removing invasive, although "native" weeds that cause a nuisance not only in the way the look but in the amount of water they suck from the ground, and therefore taking over the native grasses. People here plant buffalo grass, keep it mowed and don't water it, which is what we would like to do. Thank you all for your help....See MoreBuffalo Grass
Comments (19)Update on prestige buffalo grass plug planting in Thornton, CO: It has been almost two months. I have learned a lot--a lot of things i would do differently the next time. I hope there is not a next time. The plugs come very tangled with the stolons rooting in adjacent plugs. The roots are 'pot-bound,' and don't tolerate drying out. May 1st was too early to plant for two reasons: One, still too cold. These plugs are coming from a warm greenhouse, so even if they would grow in May had they spent all winter in the ground, they got shocked going from the greenhouse to the reality of a Colorado spring. Two, a lot of weeds have not come up as of May 1st. It may have been better to let those weeds come up for a couple of weeks in May, spray, then plant the plugs with less weed competition and warmer nightime temperatures. I regrettably did not apply a pre-emergent. This was a mistake. On part of the area, I ended up spraying a Bayer or Ortho 2,4,D product, which the label says is rated for buffalo grass as long as it is not over 85 degrees. Well I sprayed it when it was about 80 degrees, and it knocked the plugs back for about 4 weeks. It did not kill them, but just now green is starting to emerge (I sprayed in 3rd week of May) Back to planting the plugs--the key seems to be getting actual roots covered by the soil. This may seem obvious, but most plugs the tillers were connect by a half inch of bare root to the root-plug-ball. I found if I covered not just the root ball but also the bare roots, they seem to do better. On the upside, it seems that once the roots start actively growing, runners start shooting off very aggressively. They seem to be well adapted to compete against weeds. If they shoot under a weed that shades them, then they just shoot longer until they reach a sunny spot. Also, they are very low growing--so mowing on a low setting will be effective as it wont cut the buffalo grass runners, but will cut the weeds. Last week I began a tedious process of covering plugs with plastic beer cups and then spraying roundup on the weeds. This will be difficult to do this week as the runners have spread out a lot. I have ordered some Drive 75 df herbicide, which is supposed to be able to be used on bufffalo grass to control crabgrass and broadleaf weeds. I keep watching my neighbors struggle with their KBG sod -- mowing watering fertizlizing. I hope my toiling is rewarded by someday having limited mowing, watering, and fertizling--but it won't be this year...See MoreUser
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoUser
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8 years agoWoodsTea 6a MO
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