Dave, just don't water again until the mix feels dry. If you feel it is staying too wet, increase air circulation and only water when it feels dry.

Once your heat is on in the house the mix will dry out quickly.

Yes, I grow in a mix of potting soil, wood chips and perlite. My plants dried out quickly when growing in NY over winter. The air was dry, no humidity. I wanted to hold some moisture around the roots. Worked well for me.

Good luck,

Jane

Dave - You can remain passive and let the 10-12 days of sogginess run its course and the roots to react to the conditions as they will, or take a proactive stance with very little effort and at least cut your watering intervals in half. Which makes more sense to you? Lol - I know what I'd do in a heartbeat.

Also, don't be tempted to start including woodchips in your media because Jane does. Simply put, it's a bad idea. Wood chips (heartwood/sapwood of either hardwood or soft woods) are especially a problem in areas where it gets hot/humid. Woodchips are mostly cellulose, which breaks down very quickly. The heat generated during the composting process can increase soil temperatures dramatically - easily by more than 20* (think of compost piles that get as hot as 180* - that's 60* hotter than almost any root system can tolerate). This can be enough to kill or inflict severe injury on root systems already taxed by high temps. Also, you can expect a sharp, even if temporary pH spike upward during the composting of wood chips, and severe nitrogen immobilization (often referred to as tie-up) when using products like wood chips that break down quickly. Ammonium toxicity is also another significant issue associated with materials, like wood chips, that break down quickly.

This information is easily verified with a minimal amount of effort searching the net or actually reading a decent book that goes into any sort of depth about container substrates. Why someone would continue to suggest woodchips as a part of container media at every opportunity when it brings all these issues to bear is beyond me. It does no one any good, poses significant potential for harm, and further erodes credibility each time it's posted.

Al

Thank you. What exactly can I do right now to cut the watering intervals in half? I have drilled a lot of holes all over the side of the pot in hopes to let it air out more.

Should i repot? If I tip the pot when watering currently, I don't think water will make it to the bottom.

I this tree to survive the winter and will take any necessary steps.

Whay material do you use for a wick?

This is the current pot.

Eliminate the attached saucer and set your plant on blocks in a larger collection saucer so the effluent doesn't have a pathway back into the soil. Use a wick through a bottom hole at the sidewall & tilt the pot so the wick is down after a thorough watering. That will take care of most of the excess water. A more open soil would still be better because of the benefits associated with better aeration, but I don't think the setback due to an untimely repot is a good trade at this point in time. Think 'Father's Day'.

Al

Thanks Al,

the current saucer actually has about 100 holes in it as it is. The water drains out the bottom and is collected in the clear tray that it sits suspended a couple inches above. Do you think that the other method is still needed knowing that?

do I just stick the wick just barely inside the hole, or do I need to get it more to to the middle of the soil mass? As in, through 6-8" of soil? Will cloth work? And do you have any reference photos of how you're speaking of using the wick?

i also agree about the change of soil. I'll be doing that around Father's Day.

The help is great. I want to be as proactive as possible.

Just seconds ago I mentioned on another thread that being in harmony with the plant's natural rhythms involves much more waiting until the time is most advantageous than actually being proactive in carrying out the plan you might've had in place for months. ;-) The area in which you DO want to be proactive is in eliminating limitations. I've never heard anyone (other than me) mention that what defines our proficiency as a grower is our ability to recognize and eliminate those things that limit our plants, but if you think about it, it's absolutely true. The plant is already programmed to and capable of growing to be a perfect specimen. All we need to do is fix the limitations holding it back - THAT's where you want to be proactive.

Al

Very sound advice. ,

is the pot with all the holes in it going to work until I can repot?

I'll do a little searching on wicks and see what I can come up with. I'm having a hard timing visioning the wick you speak of.

thanks!

Yes - the pot is fine. I meant to include a picture, but forgot:

How I make use of individual strands from a rayon mop head:

The tag end hangs 2-4" below the bottom of the pot. Locate the wick in a drain hole through the bottom at the side.

Al

The picture helps a ton! Do I need to remove the tree from the pot? Or just stuff the rope in a hole? And how far in the hole do you need to get it?

sorry for all the questions and thanks for all the answers!

i think a string from a hooded sweatshirt would work well.

Will this work? I stuffed it in a couple inches into the soil.

It should be inserted through the pot's bottom at the sidewall.

You'll have to tell me if it works next time you water. ;-)

Tip - put a couple of drops of dish soap and a half ounce of hot water in a cup. Wet your thumb & forefinger and massage it into the cord. This will make the water in the cord wetter (so it flows better) and eliminate any tendency of the cord to be hydrophobic. If you have any woven polypro ties securing mesh bags of onions, citrus ....., they usually work very well as drain wicks. Use the dish soap trick on them too, if req'd.

Al

Not far. Fold the wick over the tip of a straight slot screwdriver and push it into the soil at the bottom of the pot.

Al

Oh! Now I see what you mean by tilting the pot. I inert from the bottom and push it up, connect? I'll give it another shot!

So I cut larger triangles in the bottom of the saucer to acress the holes in the bottom of the pot. The saucer really serves no purpose other than holding the pot on the small stand. The stand has thin metal bars and the actual bottom of the put is not a flush surface.

anyway, I stuffed the wicks up about 6" into the pot and used wooden bbq skewers to get them in.

Question, how short should I cut the wicks that are hanging below the pot? Short enough so they don't touch the surface of the clear tray, right? Excess water will drain into that tray, so the wick shouldn't touch it, or it'll draw water back into the pot, correct?

thanks!

You can use any arrangement that suits you while the wick drains the last of the water from the tilted pot, then you can set the pot back in the saucer if you like, because no additional effluent will drain after you right the pot. Allow the wick to hang well below the pot until it stops draining. If you don't think the wick is working, use another made of something else.

Al

Perfect.

just to be clear, the wick needs to be short enough where it doesn't touch the surface of where it's draining the water, right? Cause it would then be pulling back up?

Itll be tough to tell if it works or not because when I water, I flush the soil each time, so water will be running out of the bottom anyway as that's where the wicks are.

.... the wick needs to be short enough where it doesn't touch the surface of where it's draining the water, right? Cause it would then be pulling back up? Correct on both counts.

To test it's effectiveness, pull the wick out until the soil stops draining, THEN insert it and note how much additional water exits the pot.

Al

Great! I will do that next time I water. Thank you!

Tested by placing the rope in a bottle of water. It sucked water out and started dripping within about 30 seconds. At least I'll know it should be doing something to help and won't need to remove it from the pot to figure out.

this should in theory help reduce the perched water table. Going to let the tree dry out a bit more before the next watering. I'll count the days it takes to dry and see if the time is reduced.

So the wicks appear to be working and draining excess perched water. They're still dripping two hours after I watered the tree. There now should be less perched water allowing the soil to dry faster.

Indeed, sir.

Al

Watered at 1:30, it's 5:30 now and still dripping. Ha. The tree took a little under 2 gal of water before it started coming out of the drain holes. Will count the days till the next water. The last was on September 28th!

thank you for all the help, Al.

My pleasure .........

Al

Hi Dave, hadn't checked back.

Your plant looks healthy and has grown well. I do not see any problems or limitations to its growth. Apparently whatever you have been doing is working.

I just copied this which Al posted:

"Also, don't be tempted to start including woodchips in your media
because Jane does. Simply put, it's a bad idea. Wood chips
(heartwood/sapwood of either hardwood or soft woods) are especially a
problem in areas where it gets hot/humid. Woodchips are mostly
cellulose, which breaks down very quickly. The heat generated during the
composting process can increase soil temperatures dramatically - easily
by more than 20* (think of compost piles that get as hot as 180* -
that's 60* hotter than almost any root system can tolerate). This can be
enough to kill or inflict severe injury on root systems already taxed
by high temps. Also, you can expect a sharp, even if temporary pH spike
upward during the composting of wood chips, and severe nitrogen
immobilization (often referred to as tie-up) when using products like
wood chips that break down quickly. Ammonium toxicity is also another
significant issue associated with materials, like wood chips, that break
down quickly.''

I can't believe this statement!

Anyway, I'm an orchid grower and grow numerous container plants. I also compost for my outdoor beds and have been for many years. I have never had wood chips begin to compost in my pots. My orchids grow in bark chips and most orchid growers grow in bark chips. If those chips heated up and killed the plants, I suppose there would be no orchids growing. Think about it.

I have always planted my 'dirt plants' in a combo of wood chips and perlite. It drains quickly, holds enough moisture so I do not need to water every day. My plants do not appear 'limited' nor suffering root problems. I have had some of my trees over 20 years. I'm totally satisfied with their growth and health.

I love the health and beauty of your ficus and am a strong believer in, 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it.' You obviously have been growing that plant well.

Good luck to you,

Jane

Thought this might be helpful.

This was copied from Al's post about potting mixes. In Al's own words:

""Bark fines of pine, fir or hemlock, are excellent as the primary
component of your soils. The lignin contained in bark keeps it rigid and the
rigidity provides air-holding pockets in the root zone far longer than peat or
compost mixes that too quickly break down to a soup-like consistency. Conifer
bark also contains suberin, a lipid sometimes referred to as nature's
preservative. Suberin, more scarce as a presence in sapwood products and
hardwood bark, dramatically slows the decomposition of conifer bark-based
soils. It contains highly varied hydrocarbon chains and the microorganisms that
turn peat to soup have great difficulty cleaving these chains - it retains its
structure.""..Tapla

I believe it is the basis of Al's 5.1.1. It is a bark based mix. He doesn't mention his wood chips becoming 'compost' and heating up, but you might want to explore this further.

I've never had this happen. I try to repot my orchids each Spring. My large trees can go for years in the same mix I use. I just repotted a tree after about 5 years, which had been growing in my combo of potting mix, wood chips, perlite. The wood chips were perfectly in tact. I had root growth out of the pot and stuck to the sides. I had to break the pot to get the tree out. It was literally breaking out of the pot, lol.

I never found it necessary to put wicks in my pots yet reading all this I guess I should have. But, I wonder why my trees haven't shown any limit in growth or health. It makes sense (wicks), yet I have never tried them. So it begs the question, how much difference does it really make?

As an old time grower, I am happy with my results. I probably should pay more attention to the latest things, but haven't found a reason to add more complications to my life. But I certainly would not recommend that people not try the latest methods.

Jane

I appreciate everyone's help!

the tree is still putting out new growth. Some young leaves even have the reddish tint (I thought this only happened outside?) I've ordered 6 55watt (275 watt equivalent) 5500k CFL bulbs to replace what I currently have (23watt, 100 watt equivalent, 6500k). I'll have almost triple the light output I currently have.

lights are currently on 13 1/2 hours a day. I'd keep them on longer, but my girlfriend would yell at me me. Haha. Since the tree is on front of a window, it lights up the whole yard and shines into our bedroom though the hall

my plan is to switch over to 5-1-1 or the gritty mix next year. I'll probably go 5-1-1 as the tree will be outdoor in direct sun all summer, and I'll also be going with a terracotta pot. I don't want it to dry out too fast. The gritty mix would probably be perfect if I didn't use a pot that breathed so much though.

My only wish is, I wish I'd found this forum before I got the tree a year ago. It would have been in the correct soil from the start.

Jane, I think you and Al agree more than you realize. Bark (at least pine and fir, probably some other species too) is great, everyone agrees. Wood chips however, are distinct from bark but I think you may be using the terms to mean the same thing in many cases? Wood and bark are not equivalent when it comes to speed of decomposition, especially when moisture is involved.

I came to this conclusion based on your characterization of 511 as containing wood chips, but it does not. It contains bark .

Daniel

Actually you CAN believe the statement I made because it's true. Please allow me to be very exact so there is no possibility of even intentional misunderstanding. By way of explanation and so not to allow distortion of the meaning of my comments: Up until a couple of months ago, Jane was recommending a 1:1:1 mix of potting soil, pine bark, and perlite. When I explained several times that the mix she suggested uses exactly the same ingredients and takes exactly the same effort to make as the 5:1:1 mix, but doesn't offer the same advantages, she started describing her mix as containing 'wood chips' instead of bark. "Wood chips" as a significant fraction of a container medium (1/3 is significant) bring some inherent and negative issues to the table. She uses the example above of something I said in another thread instead of what I actually said in this thread for some reason, but both examples clearly illustrate I was talking about wood chips in the negative and appropriate conifer bark in the positive, so no matter . To wit: Jane's copy paste of a quote from another thread she found somewhere follows. The bold print shows clearly that I delineate carefully between conifer bark and wood chips so there would be absolutely no confusion:

Al said: "Bark fines of pine, fir or hemlock, are excellent as the primary component of your soils. The lignin contained in bark keeps it rigid and the rigidity provides air-holding pockets in the root zone far longer than peat or compost mixes that too quickly break down to a soup-like consistency. Conifer bark also contains suberin, a lipid sometimes referred to as nature's preservative. Suberin, more scarce as a presence in sapwood products [wood chips] and hardwood bark, dramatically slows the decomposition of conifer bark-based soils. It contains highly varied hydrocarbon chains, and the microorganisms that turn peat to soup have great difficulty cleaving these chains - it retains its structure."

Jane said: I believe it is the basis of Al's 5.1.1. It is a bark based mix. He doesn't mention his wood chips becoming 'compost' and heating up [because I don't use wood chips - she knows this], but you might want to explore this further. This is disingenuous in the extreme - no need to explore. What I said above was so well qualified that NO ONE could accidentally think I was an advocate for wood chips in container media. Conifer bark is vastly different than wood chips - and Jane knows this. It breaks down very slowly (unlike wood chips). Wood chips break down very quickly compared to comparable sized conifer bark because WCs are high in cellulose and low in the lipid, suberin.

What I said in THIS thread, above, which is much more to the point and should be the focus of any criticism: Also, don't be tempted to start including woodchips in your media because Jane does. Simply put, it's a bad idea. Wood chips (heartwood/sapwood of either hardwood or soft woods) [how much clearer can I be in differentiating between wood chips and conifer bark???] are especially a problem in areas where it gets hot/humid. Woodchips are mostly cellulose, which breaks down very quickly. [Very true] The heat generated during the composting process can increase soil temperatures dramatically - easily by more than 20* (think of compost piles that get as hot as 180* - that's 60* hotter than almost any root system can tolerate). This can be enough to kill or inflict severe injury on root systems already taxed by high temps. [Very true] Also, you can expect a sharp, even if temporary pH spike upward during the composting of wood chips, and severe nitrogen immobilization (often referred to as tie-up) when using products like wood chips that break down quickly. Ammonium toxicity is also another significant issue associated with materials, like wood chips, that break down quickly. [Also all very true]

This information is easily verified with a minimal amount of effort searching the net or actually reading a decent book that goes into any sort of depth about container substrates. [It is so.]

It's very obvious that you know with certainty I was talking about wood chips, not bark ...... and you know the difference between wood chips and bark. Do you realize what would happen if people start growing in wood chips? ........ and for you to act like you're incredulous about what I said is beyond understanding. These incredible distortions you come up with belie your claims of wanting to help and illustrate how far you'll go to create more strife. So sad .....

Al

Al and his friends, know I grow orchids and use wood 'bark' as my primary source of potting media. I'm not sure where his confusion comes from. Al, did you think I was talking about fresh cut wood? Like I cut down a tree and used the ground up wood chips?

I thought it was obvious what I was talking about.

Thank you Daniel for your observation. It wouldn't occur to me that people would think I was talking about fresh wood chips.

I use fir bark. I buy fir bark. I use it for my orchids and for my large container plants.

I will point out that all organic matter (including fir bark) will break down eventually. I try to repot my orchids each spring because they quickly outgrow their pots. There are some orchids which can stay in their pots for a few years.

Most orchids and 'dirt plants' will need repotting every few years. I only repot when the plants have filled their pots. However, new plants (and orchids) often come in a potting mix which is broken down and mushy. If the season is correct, or unless the plant is suffering from the poor potting mix, I will repot.

I mostly use a bark called 'Orchiatia' which is a bark which does not break down as quickly as regular bark. Since I now live in Florida, the heat and humidity takes its toll on regular orchid bark. Orchiatia is expensive and I use it for orchids. For large container plants, I use inexpensive orchid bark or Walmart wood mulch, Timberlane.

These do not hold up as well as orchid bark but I can get two years between repot if I water correctly. I have never had a problem doing this.

My large container plants need to be moved. I can move them myself (I'm 66 yrs old, thin and not a muscle builder, lol). I frequently move my large trees around.

My smaller container plants and houseplants are no problem moving. Easily carried and repotted.

I do not over-pot my plants, neither dirt plants nor orchids. I always bump my plants up one pot size. Some larger plants get root pruned before repotting and go back in the same size pot....there is only so much room.

The most important thing I have learned from years of growing plants is to learn about your plant. Learn where it grows naturally. What type of climate and soil it grows in. Many plants grow in areas which are hot and dry. Some grow in shady, moist areas. Some need cool nights, need to sleep over the cooler months. Others grow year round. Some like dry, some like moist.

As an orchid grower, I deal with trying to mimic many different climates. It is so important because plants will decline if you do not find a way to make them happy. Others will not bloom. I grow orchids for the blooms, they either bloom or they go to someone else who can provide the correct conditions.

This can be done indoors or outdoors. I did it for many years.

Wamth, light, moist/dry. It all depends on how invested you are in being successful with a particular plant/plants. Most tropicals will tolerate conditions which do not make them happy, but they will live (not necessarily well), but if given summers outdoors will do well. There are some plants which will not do well unless their light conditions and temperatures are close to what they want.

Most houseplants are tropicals. They have certain requirements which make them happy and lovely plants. They can accept what you offer, but most people would be happier growing plants they can accommodate indoors which closely match the environment they are programmed to live in.

Dave is doing that and it great. Artificial lighting works so well to carry plants over the winter. Most people can't do that nor have the 'means' to do that. Many growers have a collection of houseplants which they do not have time or energy to provide what Dave is doing. Frankly, Dave, I grew ficus in NY for over 20 years in a North window, no artificial light. It spent the summers outdoors. It was a beautiful tree. It tolerated winter in a North window. Ficus are fairly easy growers if you can provide the light. If you can't, it will shed leaves and pout until Spring. But it will live and look beautiful anyway.

Sorry for the long post. I wanted to clarify my growing style.

Thanks again for the clarification, Al and Daniel. I assumed everyone knew what I meant.

Jane

The first thing I'd like to note is, I'm not confused in the least; so there is no need to worry that I am or how I got there. Don't you agree that being clear from the beginning, rather than ASSUMING growers won't think that "wood chips" means "wood chips", or that they would automatically assume "Spring" means late spring (as in mid-Jun) instead of early spring (as in mid-March)? When one writes something, people take it literally, especially when you recently stopped advocating for pine bark as an "amendment" and started advocating for "wood chips" in the stead of PB. So, when taken literally instead of guessing at what you might have meant, the advice in either or both cases has a considerable amount of potential to cause harm or limit the growing experience of others. There is still the looming question as to why you would go to such lengths (digging up a very old post that clearly doesn't help your cause, instead of using my comments from this thread) to try to make people think I was an advocate for wood chips in container media. It was so you could make me look hypocritical for bringing your statements into question, when any reasonable person would clearly see (with help from bold print) the insinuations are as far from the truth as possible ..... and then, acting as though you were aghast that I would think "wood chips" meant "wood chips" ......

Isn't it also fair to state, since I readily point out that the 5:1:1 mix has a small degree of inherent limitations due to water retention, that either of us point out that a 1:1:1 mix of the same 3 ingredients that make up the 5:1:1 mix would be considerably more limiting because it contains almost 2.5X the volume of fine particles contained in the 5:1:1 mix, which would increase the volume of perched water the soil holds significantly and decrease aeration and gas exchange in a direct relationship with the volume of excess water held?

Where you see someone out to "get you", others see someone trying to point out these broad, misleading (whether intentional or not) statements, or statements that are patently wrong with plenty of real potential to limit the growing experience others, which deserve clarification as much as readers deserve clarity?

Setting that aside, I might point out that the cultural conditions you might find in situ plants growing under are in many cases not the conditions the plant prefers and often not replicable in containers. VERY often, a plant found in situ has been out-competed on sites with ideal conditions by plants with a high degree of vigor and is growing on a marginal site, so it's easy to be fooled into thinking that because a plant is found growing in clay loam (for example) that it prefers clay loam in a pot. It won't like it at all. Easily, 95% of the species we're likely to discuss here prefer exactly the same conditions in the rhizosphere, i.e., a soil you can easily keep damp instead of wet and a soil that holds a little excess (perched) water as possible.

Keep in mind that improving light conditions only helps the plant if lack of light is THE most limiting aspect of the plant's cultural conditions. More or better light can't make up for a soggy soil any more than it can make up for a dry soil or a soggy soil or cold feet or a calcium deficiency or a nitrogen deficiency or a manganese toxicity, or reaction to a herbicide, or an insect infestation, or a disease ........ At any point in time and given any plant or planting there is 1 single factor which is 'most limiting' (there only CAN be one factor that occupies the 'most limiting' spot because Most is the superlative of much (much - more - most). The only way the plant's lot can be improved at that point in time is to correct the most limiting factor. Once done, what WAS the second most limiting factor moves into the slot reserved for 'most limiting factor', which then becomes the only factor that, changed in the plant's favor, can improve the plant's lot. Do a search using "Liebig's Law of the Minimum" for a better understanding of this concept. Sometimes, light might be the most limiting factor, but most of the time it's NOT the most limiting factor, which essentially means we need to look at growing holistically. Light is an extremely important cultural factor, but the factor that brings most growers to the for a seeking remediation of a long list of issues are here because of direct (root rot, e.g.) or secondary (insects, diseases, poor appearance, e.g.) influences related to poor soils, which is why things like accuracy and clarity are so vitally important.

Al

Jane:..."I mostly use a bark called 'Orchiatia' which is a bark which"...

I am sorry I can't find this product anywhere on net...but I can find Orchiata bark...could you point me in right direction please?

Thank you.

Yes Rina, you are correct. Sorry for the misspelling.

Jane

Orchiata

Al, no more discussion. Find something else to do.

Jane

I'm sorry Jane, but, if I see something helpful to add I'll add it; and giving orders to anyone is probably not going to win you any points.

Al

Al,

if you see this, what are your thoughts on Bayer 3 in 1 miticide? Spider mites just keep coming back and the alcohol water spraying only seems to slow them down.

Will f. benjamina see any issues when using that systemic miticide?

Remember you can't spray it indoors. The Bayer works well for fungal infections and insects other than mites. It works marginally well for mites, but mite populations are notoriously famous for building an immunity to miticides, which is why it's very often suggested that you have 2 miticides and use them alternately to help eliminate an immunity. I have always been able to keep any mites that show up under control with the water/alcohol spray, so I haven't delved too deeply into what else might be used effectively as a control.

I haven't noticed any issues associated with the 3-in-1's use, but I haven't sprayed it and returned plants to a very dry (like indoors in winter) environment.

Sorry for missing the post, I must have inadvertently deleted the notification.

Al

Thanks Al! And I have a couple posts going right now. Mainly about young leaf abscission. I think my neem / peppermint / alcohol sprays are just mixed too strongly. I'm losing a lot of immature leaves and not a single mature leaf has dropped.

Obviously, young leaves will be more sensitive, is that correct? They don't have the same thick waxy coating that mature leaves have.

after I thoroughly sprayed with the strong mixture, the very next day I noticed young leaves looking dehydrated and then they all started to drop.

Again, I did lose a single mature leaf. The same thing happened on 5 out of my 6 ficus. They were all sprayed. The only one to not lose any leaves simply didn't have any fresh growth.

I'm really starting to think mites didn't have much to do with this. In my large tree, I can only find about 5-10 at a time. I spray weekly and it wipes them out for a bit.

If you have a bad mite infestation, you might need to spray water/alcohol every 4 days to keep them under control. What is the RH level in the room where your tree(s) is/are? It sounds like you can pin the issue on the spray. Where did the "peppermint" come from?

Al

Al,

I'm not sure of the levels, but I know it has to be on the dry side. Definitely under 40%. Maybe under 20%. I don't have a meter in the room, but I can tell you, even to me, the air feels dry.

im going to add a humidifier and run it 10 hours a day at night when the lights are off. Think that'll help?

The pepperment came from the exact soap you recommend. The pure organic Castile peppermint soap.

i think my concentrations are simply too strong.

I only use the soap as an emulsifier for neem oil. You used Castille's Peppermint soap?

If you can keep the humidity north of 50% in the room that contains your plants, that will go a long way toward keeping the mite population under control. The LOVE dry air.

Al

Yeah it was that soap you recommended. I used it with the neem oil. But just a small amount.

I'm going to add a humidifier today.

I do think it's harder than may at first be apparent to emulsify pure cold pressed neem into water with soap. If possible use a powered mixer of some sort (hand beater or whatever). Or a whole lot of vigorous shaking, but I had less luck this way. If you can see oily stuff on the surface you still haven't quite gotten there.

Warming the neem container in a bowl or pot of hot water first helps a lot, and can significantly change the viscosity.

I also think you would need to use it every 3-5 days for at least 4 applications to really get rid of your mites - but it sounds like you've done this.

This is typically what I post for neem application directions:

Neem Oil
Insecticide

1 pint very hot water

1 pint rubbing alcohol or ethanol

1 tsp pure, cold-pressed neem oil

1/2 tsp Castile Peppermint Soap, Murphy’s
Oil Soap, or insecticidal soap

In a 1 qt spritzer, mix the neem with the
soap & hot water. Shake vigorously. Add the alcohol & shake again. Shake
regularly/vigorously to keep the mixture emulsified as you spritz the plant, making sure
as you spritz you’re covering all the vegetative surfaces, especially the
underside of leaves and leaf/branch crotches. Use all the mix same day or
discard. Use only pure, cold-pressed neem oil, such as that packaged by
Dyna-Gro. Methods of oil extraction other than cold pressing limit the effectiveness of the
active ingredient in neem oil – azadiractin.

Al

That's about what I did to be exact. Maybe slightly less neem, peppermint soap and way less isopropyl alcohol as I have 91% and it's a bit strong.

It was after the thorough spay of those ingredients that I started to notice a very pronounced leaf abscission in young leaves.

I'm not sure what to tell you, other than I've not had an adverse reaction in Ficus to the neem/alcohol/oil soap/water solution.

Al

I realize this post is almost a year old, but I wanted very much to thank Jane for the reference to Orchiata bark for my phals, and to tell Al and others that plain old Murphy's Oil Soap in the spray bottle worked well against invasive insects on my house plants. Bugs hate real soap.

Looking back, my tree didn't have any issues with isopropyl alcohol. There was a large population of spider mites at the time that I didn't detect.

the tree was dropping young leaves as that's what the spider mites love to suck on rather than mature leaves. I didn't realize that at the time and it didn't come through in my posts. It had nothing to do with light, soil, watering or cultural factors.

Spraying weekly with Bayer 3 in 1 insect disease and mite control for a month before coming back inside has seemed to do the trick this year. Knock on wood.

So far there is no issue with new growth this year.

Glad to hear it!

Dave, I'm so glad you resurrected this thread, because it solved my own little mystery.

For a long time my ficuseses' buds and leaves would dry up and die off like yours. I just assumed they stopped because of the cultural improvements I made after finding this forum; it just never occurred to me that the spider mite infestation I treated at the same time was the real culprit. Good to know!!