What do dormant perennials really need? Overwintering rooted cuttings
ruth_mi
8 years ago
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8 years agoruth_mi
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Help Needed - First Year Overwintered Perennials
Comments (21)York_rose, I knew when I bought the 3 Salvia greggii Heatwave that they wouldn't make it in mailbox bed with winter snow from street but was going to try them further back where bed is very raised. I also knew intellectually that they were a long shot but my heart took over. If they bloom this year and I get to see some pretty color and flying beauties around them it'll be worth it. I can always try keeping them in pots since they're on the small side and overwinter either heeled in or in pot ghetto with bagged leaves all around. As far as the Daffodil foliage it would have to be the deer eating it as there weren't other critters out and about all winter. The deer hoof marks were also a sign it was them. Some foliage came up very prematurely last summer and they started in on it then and continued through winter. During a warm winter spell I sowed Larkspur seed under open top half of clear bottles (so seeds wouldn't float away or get eaten) and deer plucked up bottles and chewed them to hell. Of course those seeds & bottles were right in front of the yews they eat. A very long stretch of temporary 3-4' green rabbit fencing is going up this weekend around entire front garden and all the way around to side rose garden area. I have to give plants time to grow much less bloom. I'm starting Salvia rupestris from seed indoors figuring if it doesn't survive winter or dies to the ground it's a more realistic goal since I can sow each year. I might get a small pot of blue salvia that's annual here just for the blooms and pollinator attraction. agardenstateof_mind, I think I saw you post somewhere that you work at Deep Cut Park which is just up the road from my father's place. I've passed it many times during detours around construction on Middletown-Lincroft Rd. and as alternate to Rt. 35 north when I'm making a northward gardening swing to Home Depot, Lowes & Dearborn Farms. Dearborn Farms is expensive but they sometimes have things I can't find anywhere else locally. I need to get up there very soon to get Dot Pots for germinating some seeds. People at Breck's and other local places look at me like I have 2 heads when I ask for something that's not "Jiffy" although tons of people have great success with them. I too peeked under the mulch on all the perennials yesterday and this morning...without stepping into the beds. Most have tiny fresh growth at crown but I'm not touching anything for a couple weeks until I have to plant some Campanula I have buried in pots. Thought I read in the Press that you have some fencing to keep out deer and protect some of your gardens at Deep Cut. I'm jealous. :) Although it takes a lot of time to hand water in August-early Sept. I tend to see only the glorious blooms all around and momentarily forget about what died or was eaten. I've also ordered spring blooming bulbs by then so have something to look forward to in Fall...the mad dash to get them all in the ground before it's too late...LOL. Feeling hopeful today and will have to be satisfied with outdoor work of collecting downed branches & leaves, cutting up some downed trees and carting them closer to the street for pick-up in April. At least I'll be outside and get some exercise....See Moreoverwintering rooted cuttings
Comments (6)Stepandfetch: I am in Durham, NC, and for years I have overwintered newly rooted up to one year cuttings in a small greenhouse, with no heat other than a small heater which turns on at about 35 degrees. I have yet to lose a single cutting (10 to 20 each year). In other words, fig cuttings are quite hardy with reasonable protection. The area you describe seems ideal for overwintering cuttings. As others have advised, keeping them out of direct winter winds is required. I protect my small in ground figs with a two foot cylinder of chicken wire, which is then stuffed with dry leaves, surrounding the tree in the center. In spring, I just lift off the chicken wire, and allow the leaves to stay, as mulch for the growing season. I don't see why the same treatment could not be used for a small potted fig tree, but I doubt that it is necessary in the protected location you describe. It seems that there are a lot of fig lovers in NC. Perhaps we should exchange e-mail addresses and information about figs in our area. I would certainly like info about the "big yellow" fig you found on your trip. It sounds like a winner. My e-mail address is eestes@nc.rr.com, if you or others are interested. Thanks....See MoreOverwintering rooted cuttings
Comments (12)mgleason, I have been using 6" pots because the cuttings are usually too long to comfortably fit into a 4" pot. Oak leaves are the preferred ones because they don't break down over winter. (My next door neighbour [There's that funnily spelt word again] tried to fold oak leaves into his soil one year, and they hadn't broken down by the next.), but the bottles will protect the cuttings from any nibbling from critters (Those I uncovered rather too early one year became breakfast for bunnies, and unfortunately, my wife is rather fond of the furry creatures, while all I see is dinner.), and the oak leaves won't matt. I have noticed on a number of other posts that many have trouble getting their cuttings through winter outside. My success may be partially because the cuttings, and their coat of leaf mulch, are on the north side of the house against a basement wall that is without insullation; therefore, the cuttings never get too cold, but I am surmising. I hope if you ever frequent London for another concert that you swing on by for a wee (Scottish) visit. I also hope that those who frequent this forum often won't mind another link to the article I wrote. Steve. Here is a link that might be useful: Growing & Overwintering Cuttings...See MoreHow to Overwinter my summer rooted cuttings?
Comments (4)Hi EllaRose: Bluegirl in Texas posted a great tip on how heat at the bottom encourages root growth, see link below. Roses die in my zone 5a mainly due to: 1) fluctuations in temp., thaw-and-freeze, and a sun-room will do just that: hot sun during the day, and freezing temp. at night. My house has 22 windows, most face southern exposure. It gets above 70 degrees during the day with sunshine, then dips to low 50's at night. That's hard on plants. 2) Roses also die due to dryness in my zone 5a. The root balls, if buried in deep in wet soil outside, won't dry out. The root balls, if covered in a dark garage, and watered once a month, won't dry out. 3) Indoor plants: You have a HOT basement ? If there's a window, roses can keep growing, but there are many drawbacks: too dry, and you'll get spidermites. Too wet, or misting with sprayers, and you'll get black spots. I'm not sure if it's worth it. I kept herbs in a basement (with a window) and I'll never do that again. White flies, black canker from over-watering, not worth it. I agree with Seil that keeping them dormant (dark & cool) at a stable temp. is best. Freezing and thawing is hard on the roots. See link below for Bluegirl's excellent tip on digging a pit to shelter rootings in Texas fall weather. Here is a link that might be useful: Hot beds for fall rooting by Bluegirl This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Fri, Oct 25, 13 at 13:31...See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years agoruth_mi
8 years agopennlake
8 years agodowlinggram
8 years ago
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woodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada