What temperature do you call it kaput for tomatoes etc.?
springtogarden
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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What is the best potting soil for container tomatoes, cukes, etc.
Comments (10)From left to right: Fafard 3B Fafard 3B 1 bag 3B + 1 bag pine bark fines 1 bag 3B + 1 bag pine bark fines 1 bag 3B + 2 bags of pine bark fines 1 bag 3B + 2 bags of pine bark fines 70% coconut coir + 30% perlite (I normally don't start any scotch bonnet pepper plants in the summer (it is too hot, buggy, and rainy) but this year thought I would give it a shot plus do more in the fall. They last longer than 1 season. We don't get freezes.) Here is just a sampling of some of them. Fafard 3B --great right out of the bag Actually had flowers and now fruit way ahead of others by 7 or 8 days. They have the greatest height and most dense foliage. One of the 4 plants I did with 2 to 1 ratio (PB to 3B) is just as tall and full but one is much shorter for some reason. I expect all of the extra pine bark component ones to do well. The 2 PB to 1 Fafard 3B ratio should be good over the long haul. (They also make a mix called Fafard 52 which I only was able to find once. It was 60% bark.) Fafard 3B is 45% peat and 30% pine bark (one site said 25 % pine bark). I am hoping this also will hold up well --I have used peat based mixes with no pine bark with good results so the pine bark should make it even better as the mix degrades. Coir is plugging along--not quite up to speed with the others but still doing OK. It is the final one of the group. The transplants seedlings I did in coir did awful. There are very good potting mixes on the market and pre mixed makes it super easy . Or buy your own ingredients and mix yourself--that can work equally as well too. Your choice. For many annuals like vegetables --longevity of the mix if you are dumping in raised bed after one season or not reusing is not all that crucial as long as the mix is well draining but nutrient retentive as well. L.O. Can you post pics of your vegetables in the gritty mix? How many times do you expect to reuse?...See MoreHow do you know what kind of shade you have?By tree type soil etc
Comments (3)What else... Rainfall. How much over the whole of the year, and when in the year. How much mist? How high are you above sea level? Does your property face the sun (South, for you) or are you shaded by hills, buildings, whatever, and don't see the sun until later in the day? Does the frost take it's time about melting, even when it's sunny? When is your first/last frost of significance (the one that terminates the tomatoes or mushies the young bean plants)? Is your soil acid, or alkaline or neutral? 6,5,4 is tending acid. 8,9 is tending alkaline. 6.5-7.5 is around the neutral range. You can buy a home test kit from your garden centre or farmers' supply depot. With maples and cherries, I'd guess at moderately acid - especially if you have pines and native rhododendrons in your woods/bush. How deep is the topsoil, and does it dry out over the summer? Do you have boggy patches in the woods, or is it mostly well-drained after the heavy rains? How dense are the roots in the area where you might want to have planting pockets for treasures? And what sort of shade??? Do the trees cast shadows sprinkled with patches of light on a sunny day? (Dappled light.) Or does it look as gloomy as a winter day when you go in on a summer's day? (Dense shade) Dry shade is the sort of thing you get on the north side of the house under the eaves. Rarely gets natural moisture. A useful zone for drying out bulbs over summer, but can be a gardening challenge. Hope that's helped a bit....See MoreHow do you know what kind of woods you have?By tree type soil etc
Comments (5)Forests are often defined by their dominent species in a the mature or last climax succession. For example a if a woodland site is completely burned first smaller bushes will grow then successively larger trees until eventually you get a fairly stable group of plants. It sounds as if you might be in a Maple, Cherry Beech Appalachain type of forest. If you find a forestry text ( also may be called sylvics or sylviculture) you can find a list of what types of trees grow. Usually this will include the big trees and the understory trees. It has been several years since I studied this but I think you might find. Red Maple, Black Cherry, American Beech, Tulip Popler, Sugar Maple and Hemlock as some of you dominate species. Understory might include grey birch, yellow birch, witch hazel, sassafrass. The non-woody plants and much harder to define because they change more rapidly. As the trees grow the shade conditions change and plants that grew well before no longer do. If an area loses its trees by wind or fire wildflowers and other plants which have not been there for years suddenly appear because there is more light. The seeds have been in the soil all the time waiting for the right conditions to grow, this is called the seed bank....See MoreBoiler temperatures, aquastats etc
Comments (5)1) If I have people staying in the cottage for brief periods in summer and turn the system on (for DHW) and off again when they leave, will that seriously affect the boilers life expectancy? and why?. Seriously affect the life of the boiler? I would have to say "No". One effect of shutting down a boiler are leaks at the gaskets and joints. If it doesn't leak, you should be OK. Leaking means replacement water which contains oxygen, which promotes rust until the oxygen is consumed. Is there a minimum low temp (aquastat) I should set the boiler to to protect the boiler If there is danger of freezing, I would drain the system into buckets and measure the amount of water. Then I would refill with 50% glycol/water mix. If the boiler would shut down and nobody knew, at least your heating pipes won't freeze. I would set the low limit of the aquastat at 140 or 150 and leave the high limit alone. In the non-freezing months of the year, you can turn the low limit all the way down or shut it down. What does it mean in practical terms when a boiler is not cold start? It means that your boiler will maintain 140º all the time when there is no call for heat. If the cabin isn't used alot, a cold start boiler would make sense for you, as well as a wall mounted electric boiler, if electricity isn't too expensive. 1. During the summer when only DHW is required should I turn the Hi and lo down on the aquastat as the boiler comes on a lot for the amount of HW we use.. Just seems to be keeping the boiler room warm (i have lagged every thing I can!!) What would normal settings for these be? You can set the low limit to 120 for DHW and see if it's hot enough at the sinks....See Moredaniel_nyc
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agodaniel_nyc
8 years agodaniel_nyc
8 years agospringtogarden
8 years ago
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Peter (6b SE NY)