What I do, is grow it on indoors over the winter, and next spring you'll have a nice big bush. Next summer your plant will be in its full glory. I actually took my cuttings last November, and I have 2 nice 40 foot rose hedges now to appreciate. Just put 2 shoplights back to back, four four foot tubes, t8, buy the XHL TCP 4100K (they're about $3 apiece). the slight amount of electricity used, will generate a little warmth to help keep the room warm, so it's like getting the electricity for free winter heating. Make sure the plant does not have any aphids or spider mites, be prepared to mist your plant with soapy water on a regular basis. buy cheapo shoplights, but be sure that the ballast is rated for the full power output, and is not "energy saving".

well i live in a zone 4 area that often has only a 90-100 day season. there are things you can do to extend your season. first and best is a green house for both starting your own plants and growing some plants. this will extend you season to twice as long with out a great deal of extra expense. we use grow tunnels to cover our field corps at night when there is a danger of frost. we like to cover our tomatoes when the night time when temp go below 50 degrees F. this will allow blossom set and establish a good root system so when the heat hits they really git going. this year we have not had the normal heat and the tomatoes are slow. we also cover in the fall because we get real nice indian summers after the first frost. you just need to work at it. i live in a high mountain valley in central Utah at 5.500 feet. the extra effort is worth it. last year we got more production after the first frost with out tomatoes that before. this year i started my corn in the green house and i had corn on the 24th of July. the other gardeners are just getting their first corn now. you learn tricks and it makes a difference. this year we did not have a late frost. we watch the rabbit brush for the bright yellow of it's flowers and mark two weeks on the calendar for the first frost. it is like playing basketball, you take what the defense gives you. good lock. Dean

I'm in Idaho, but the pepper that fruits the fastest for me, so far, seems to be Randy Sine's Evil Jalapeno (both years I've grown in; well, it was one of the first last year, but it was the first to set fruit that I found this year). You might try Ring of Fire; it's not 60-days for me (it might be for you), but if you let them all ripen, they should all get ripe at once before the end of the season, anyway. It's prolific and the peppers look a very nice shade of red. Aji Omnicolor is one I grew last year, and I'm growing lots of it this year from seeds I saved last year. It's not exactly early, but it's early for a C. baccatum pepper. It's got a nice, fruity flavor and small peppers. It's maturing faster for me, this year. I think saving your seeds generally will help you to get earlier peppers for some varieties (due to acclimatization). Also, you might try giving them extra zinc and phosphorus among other things, if they're having trouble maturing. I think a lot of our soil seems to be zinc-deficient. Cal-mag supplements seem to be pretty popular with peppers among enthusiasts. I like to grow peppers in 10-gallon moving totes. They seem to grow faster in them, and the plants get a good size. You can do 2 plants in one tote, but if you do one plant, they seem to get bigger (bigger plants andI assume larger fruit). Either way, I like them a lot better than 4-5 gallon buckets. I like Chervena Chushka quite a bit. I grew three plants in an ~18 gallon moving tote last year. You might like Feher Ozon, Lipstick, Roumanian Rainbow, King of the North, and such. If you want a C. pubescens pepper, Aji Rocoto Largo is an earlier one.

I have started to harden-off pretty much all my tender crops. If all goes well, I'm just about done with my grow lights for the season. Here is a Habanero and a Gold Currant tomato. These have been out longer than other seedlings and now get full morning sun and dappled light later in the AM. Here are the two overwintered Biquinho. I think there may be a couple of pods on them. They still have some scraggly looking foliage from the winter, but should start to look better soon. These are roughly 2 gallon pots and their final summer home. Here are my four Rocotos in 5/6 gallon pots. I'm not certain how well they're doing. One seems to have normal new growth coming in, while it looks off-colour and brittle on a couple of them. It's kind of the same issue last year's overwintered plants had. Here is the rest. The leftmost tray has 8 HHW, the next one 8 Jwala, then 10 tomato plants of 4 varieties and the smaller tray on the right has 5 more HHW, later starts, as well as one straggler Hab, two Biquinho, basil and thyme. These are now getting full morning sun for a bit and full shade afterwards. Night temperatures still drop to ~2-3°C every few days, though we haven't had a real frost in quite a while. It doesn't go below 10°C on a good day, so I'll start leaving everything out when the forecast shows so. I'm in no hurry to get anything out permanently. I'll probably wait about 2 weeks to get these peppers in their 5 gallon containers and 2-3 weeks to put the tomatoes in the ground. The 5 extra HHW seedlings will go in the ground, in a spot where I usually have late-season success with Jwalas, we'll see how these do. Other than that, my overwintered spinach is bolting early and most of it, as well as the new spinach, lettuce and several radishes were eaten by what I suspect may be mice. I've set out traps, but caught nothing. I've protected a couple of smaller beds with mesh and plastic and have limited further damage. All my beds are essentially full of radishes in different stages right now. I'll be eating lots of them soon.