Foundation landscaping help needed (Piedmont of NC, zone 7)
We had some large, old laurel shrubs in our front that lived their useful life. We pulled them out last weekend, and now need to replant. The house faces due west, so the front will be shady until around mid-day, but has full afternoon/evening sun (as mentioned, we're in the piedmont of NC, zone 7). We have an existing large holly at the corner on one side and a large osmanthus on the other corner, plus 2 knock-out roses by the front steps. I had someone that works at a local nursery give me a simple design that calls 2 hoogendorn hollies under each window, 3 Encore azeleas in front of them, some low-growing loropetalum in front of the holly/osmanthus and 2 sky pencil hollies right to the outside of the door. I think that design is simple enough, but I'm wondering if the azeleas would flourish in that hot afternoon/evening sun. Any other ideas/suggestions, or like the current plan? By the way, there is about 3' between the ground and the bottom of the windows. I'd prefer something low-maintenance, that won't grow taller than 3' and above the bottom of the windows (which is what drove me nuts about the old laurel shrubs).
Comments (13)
Sammy
8 years agoSammy
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
satsumas fruiting in NC Piedmont
Comments (16)Is that Alpine, TX? Am I correct in thinking that the central part of the country sees more drastic short-term (within 24 hour periods) temperature swings like you described. Does citrus harden off properly in a greenhouse? Would a satsuma in a greenhouse withstand the same kind of cold that an outdoor tree can? Would the additional warmth during the day not make it harder on the tree to dip down in temperature at night? I'm assuming it does. Just having to keep a satsuma mid-teens or above (although I still need to find out what the threshold is for when there's still fruit on the tree) seems to offer big advantages in a zone 7 like mine. That's part of my logic -- correct me if I've made any false assumptions -- on why I think I'd rather not have my satsuma in a greenhouse....See MoreStarting small with foundation landscape - help!
Comments (5)Welcome, Kellycrash! You have a quite attractive house. Thanks for including the photos; it makes it much easier to offer intelligent comments. You've gotten great advice so far - evergreens for continued interest in winter, plant for the size space you have, areas against the house tend to be dry. The advice to keep this area relatively simple is a good one too as it is a small area. I'd probably plan to use some of the plants you use here elsewhere in the garden to provide some continuity. I would suggest working out a plan for the whole front of the house and perhaps the whole front yard right now. If you don't, each small part is likely to reflect where you are as a gardener at a particular time and not necessarily gel well as a whole yard. Figure out where you are likely to want to walk and how you will use it (kids' soccer field? just decoration? future patio? etc) before starting planting. You don't need to plant the whole thing, but at least get a feel for how you want it to look in the long run. Drive around and look at plantings for houses similar to yours and evaluate them - decide what you like or don't like and what will work for how you will use the space. Get books out of the library that have pictures of whole house landscaping, again to decide what look you like. Worry less about particular plants until you've decided on the big picture items. I'd also probably mulch the whole cleared area now with an unobtrusive mulch (not dyed) so that weeds don't get started while you plan. I'd also really check out your amount of sun carefully. If you have more than 4 hours (noon to 5 instead of 1 to 4) you may be able to grow many sun-loving plants and shade lovers would find that much afternoon sun to be too much. Once you have done that, then find plants you like the look of that which will suit your conditions of part shade, probably acid soil (though your new concrete sidewalk may leach lime for a while), and whatever your soil texture is (sandy, clayey, or whatever.) 3 1/2 feet is quite narrow to keep plants both off the base of the porch and off the walkway. I'd try for plants that grow narrowly upright rather than have to fuss with pruning them away from both the walk and the porch lattice. You have a tough situation - narrow and somewhat shady. It's a shame that the walkway isn't 2 feet farther out as it would give many more options. As far as your specific plant ideas so far: I like that you have found plants that will look attractive year round, with evergreen and/or variegated foliage for when there isn't bloom. Here is a webpage link to copy and paste for Blue Barron rhodie. http://www.westonnurseries.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=plants.plantDetail&plant_id=37 Since Weston Nurseries is the breeder of the plant, I'd take their zone 6 seriously and not try this plant in such a prominent position. If you put it off one of the porch ends where you have enough depth for several layers of plants, if it has a bad winter, the other plants may help to camouflage this. To help find alternatives, linked below is a rhodie seach database. If you want a similar one for azaleas, click on 'plant data' on the same page and go to 'azaleas' If you use the multiple parameter search you can put in your hardiness info (-15), your height info, and the description will tell you if it is more upright or spreading. You can then do a general web search to find info on width. Purple Gem might work for you and many of the hybrids and selections of R. yakushimanum (commonly called Yak rhododendrons) like 'Anna Hall' or 'Ken Janeck' should stay small enough for quite a while since they are relatively slow growing. You could also check out Leucathoes which are another evergreen, some with variegated leaves and many stay small. I have both small spireas and the two small Deutzias (Chardonnay Pearls and Nikko) in half shade, and both bloom well. Both look rather twiggy in winter. You could consider one of the smaller and more shade tolerant clematis on a narrow obelisk. If you get a type 3 prune (something like Justa or Savannah don't get too tall) you will cut back the dead vine to 6 or 8 inches in the fall and have the ornamental obelisk for winter interest. Here's another search page, this one from Clematis on the Web. Leave blank any categories that aren't important and just put in height and pruning type. http://www.clematis.hull.ac.uk/new-clemlistsearch.cfm If you decide to do this, I can give you some reputable mail order places that have more varieties than most local nurseries. Another option is the selection of a native honeysuckle, Lonicera sempervirens 'Major Wheeler'. Some groundcovers that play well with other plants and are happy in part sun (to wander around the feet of other plants): Veronica 'Georgia Blue' or 'Waterperry Blue' Cranberry - perfectly happy in average soil and is evergreen Some perennials that should stay within bounds, look good all growing season, will be happy with afternoon sun, and you may be able to get at plant swaps, though you might have to buy: daylily mounding perennial geranium (not the geraniums grown in pots) Heuchera Siberian Iris I like the idea of planting bulbs there, since it would give you flowers early in the season. I love planting reticulated irises for early bloom and daffodils for midspring bloom. Here is a link that might be useful: rhododendron database search...See MorePassionate NC (Zone 7b/8a) gardener moving to Denver area - Help!!
Comments (9)Hi Marsha, Welcome to RMG! About the soil in the Metro Denver area, there are a few members who have a sandier soil, but almost all of us have nasty clay--and I suspect what you're calling clay back east is a joy compared to the Rocky Mountain Clay! You're right--you just keep adding organic matter year after year after year.... I DOES get better--eventually! And if you pick the "right" plants, you CAN grow things in it! Some of our members build raised beds and fill them with "store bought" soil to give them better soil quickly. Lots of advice around here for raised beds if you decide to go that route. And lots of sympathy for your soil problems if you don't! ;-) I'm going to link two threads from when others were moving out here and asking for advice. I think you'll find pretty much all your questions answered between the two threads--and probably a lot of info about stuff you haven't even thought about yet! The first is a 2014 thread from somebody who was moving here from the UK! http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2131647/an-intro-and-questions?n=9 The second is an old thread from 2006 from somebody moving here from New York and, in addition to other info, is talking about drought! The good news is that virtually ALL of Colorado is now officially out of drought conditions, though it's still always a good idea to try to get some sort of an idea about what watering restrictions could be imposed in the future for any property you're looking at--maybe ask about what restrictions were in place when we were still in drought. The first thread has more info about xeric plants than this one--this one has more "general" info about living out here. http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2139011/gardening-around-denver-drought-question?n=10 I know there was another thread from someone asking about the different areas to live in the Metro area, but I sure can't find it! There's some info in the above threads about the different areas, and if you have questions about a specific area, just come ask. About the views, you can get good views pretty much anywhere in the Metro area, it just depends on the individual lot. The "olde" Denver areas generally have lots of established trees and you'd be less likely to have a view. If you're hoping for something on a greenbelt you'll need to look at the newer subdivisions since that's a relatively new concept. I'm on the north end (Thornton) and there's a lot of new subdivisions north and west of me where I'm sure there are views, and there are neighborhoods just east of me (120th & Colorado Blvd.) that have greenbelts running all thru them. (I used to live down on the south end just north of Parker and had a view from Pike's Peak almost the whole way up to Long's Peak. Oh, how I miss that view!) When you come out I recommend you start with a drive from one end of the city to the other--just to get the Big Picture about what the different areas are like. Also want to let you know that we have two plant swaps out here each year. Where they are is determined by who volunteers to host them--they've been held everywhere from the extreme south end to the extreme north end of the Denver Metro area! It's a fun time getting together with Gardening Folks, and is a good opportunity to pick up some free plants--even if you don't have anything to bring yet! When you get moved out here just keep an eye out for the swap threads! We'd all love to meet you! Welcome to the Friendliest Little Gardening Forum in the West, Skybird...See MorePlease help with some landscaping advice zone 7a NJ
Comments (25)TFitz, when you say "gas meter," that's what I think you're talking about. The higher meter is electric. Sky Pencil Holly is a possibility. Regardless of what you plant, it would be good to paint the conduits, box and wires white in the meanwhile so it doesn't stand out as much. Be careful of planting something that will grow too large or fast or you'll end up regretting it....See MoreCindy B.
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoThanks!! The center part of the house bumps out 2' from the main part of the house. The stoop is about 8' across and comes out about 54". But I am confused about how you mention to landscape to the right up to/around the lamp post. I am attaching a few more photos... The illustration is NOT to scale, but you can get an idea of dimensions. The sidewalk mets up with our driveway (on the inside of the oak tree in the photo) - the driveway goes past the house to the basement garage on the right side of the garage. Behind the osmanthus & dogwood on the right is a retaining wall. I have also included a photo of the view from the front door (our street is not in the view - it's to the far right....you can see a roadway in the distance - that is a neighbor's driveway). The plan I was given calls for "Daruma" loropetalum, but I am thinking of using instead the dwarf weeping variety that would stay about 1" tall. They would be on the outer edges, in front of the holly on the left, and from the osmanthus to the dogwood on the right. Hoogendorn hollies would be in the back, but I do wonder if the azaleas would block the hollies. Or maybe I put larger loropetalums in the back....I just don't want something that grows above the window sills (which are 3' from the ground).
Sammy
8 years ago
emmarene9
8 years ago
PROYardvaark
8 years agoI do not think you're going to get low maintenance with most of the plants shown on the proposed plan ... not if your window sill height is 3'. I would stick with azaleas OR dwarf yaupon holly below windows and not mix all those things up. Agree with Emmarene, would nix the sky pencil. As it is, you're keeping the Osmanthus in a giant ball shape that looks stiff and toy-like next to your large house. I'd immediately start maintaining those to grow in a multi-trunk tree form ... which would coincide with their nature anyway. Would consider planting a large bed below and around the Osmanthus .... could be a low shrub mass or perennial. Then a single shrub below each innermost window, color at the steps and groundcover to link things up.
Cindy B. thanked YardvaarkCindy B.
8 years agoThanks all!!
Samantha - As for the variety of azalea, we were thinking either Autumn Angel (white) or Autumn Chiffon (light pink with darker center). Both are dwarf and should only get to be 3x3. I was leaning more towards the white just for a neutral color, although I already have the dark pink from the Knock-Out roses. I *think* they may be hardier in the full sun.
Yardvaark - Thanks so much for the design ideas! As for that Osmanthus (& holly), I like the idea of making it more into a tree - but I have some questions about how to go about doing so! We bought this house 2 yrs ago, and of course inherited the landscaping. The previous owners clearly didn't do much in the way of yardwork/landscaping, so both the Osmanthus and the holly on the opposite side had gotten quite large. The holly was trimmed in a cone shape and the Osmanthus was circular. I just recently trimmed several feet, again, off of each shrub, and made the holly into a (very poorly shaped) ball to match the Osmanthus. If I had to guess, there was a holly on the right side at one time too (there are some shoots that keep trying to come up), but it must have been replaced with this Osmanthus. As a native Virginian, Osmanthus isn't something I'm familiar with because I assume it's a little too chilly there for them. However we lived in coastal AL for a few years before moving here and I was quite fond of the very fragrant "tea olives," which now I know were a type of Osmanthus! But anyway, I've taking a photo of the trunk of that Osmanthus...to make it into a tree, I guess we would prune off the lower limbs - and the same for the holly?
Here's the backside of the Osmanthus (which seems to me to be a large mass of trunks):
This is the holly on the left side:
Both of these have "holes" on the in/back side where the previous old laurel shrubs that were in front of the house had grown too large.Now, if I am successful in making the Osmanthus & holly into a tree form, plant either the azaleas or compact hollies both under the inside window, and under those two new "trees"?
emmarene9
8 years ago- PRO
Yardvaark
8 years ago Cindy B.
8 years agoSammy
8 years ago
Yardvaark