Please help with some landscaping advice zone 7a NJ
tfitz1006
4 years ago
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Munstead Wood cane dieback - will it survive? (Zone 7A)
Comments (15)Wow, I totally did not expect the volume of feedback. Thank you all so much for all the honest thoughts and advice (if only my DA roses were this receptive to my concern lol.) This is embarrassing to admit but this is actually my SECOND Munstead Wood already this year, and I only started doing balcony gardening/rose growing this summer. The first one was a bare-root from DA, and did not come out of dormancy at all. This one survived 3 months, and when she was happy, she was breathtaking (more photos at the end.) I am so in love with the fragrance and color of MW so I won't give her up completely, but I probably should take a break from DAs for now. Reading through the replies, I initially was a bit confused as there seemed to be 2 schools of thought regarding the amount of water, but now I think you all are right because the sudden Black Finger of Death (thanks Cynthia!) is probably due to both the prolonged water logging (pot sitting in the saucer with drying soil) and the lack of watering recently. I will dig it up and post photos of the roots as my early Halloween offering for the everyone :). I have always been renting in the DMV (I'm not from the area) so a small balcony/pot ghetto is the most I can offer to my roses at the moment. I honestly don't know what possesses me to think I can grow roses in such space-and-light constrained condition, but I can't stop (already thinking of what to order form Palatine...) I am putting the blame squarely on everyone here for posting such inspiring photos and being amazing all around :). Hopefully the roses will do better in my next rental with slightly bigger outdoor space and no surround glasses. My recently deceased MW threw a huge party in July - the fragrance was so intriguing to me that I brought the pot indoor overnight for a day to enjoy the blessing in greater concentration hehe :)....See MoreLandscape Design Help / Advice in Northeast Florida (Zone 9A)
Comments (24)Yes, I understand that the immediate intention for the play area is not to install a play set. But it's coming eventually and do you want the planting scheme to do dual duty by working now and also be ready for the future without any major alterations? Or do you want to subject yourself to the possibility of making a lot of changes when a play set is installed? A year is NOT a long time. As the play area develops, it is divided from the planting area with a bed line. The bed line is something to be figured out now, on the plan (as information about the play set/area becomes known.) The bed line divides places where people could possibly walk ("floors": lawn, low groundcover, mulch-only) from places where they couldn't ("walls" & "furniture": shrubs, perennials and tall groundcovers.) Trees ("ceilings") could be located in either areas Another possibility with the pitts is to cut them down and do a total rejuvenation -- where you control/shape their re-growth (which will happen very quickly since they already have developed root systems) -- and trim them so as NOT to reach way out into the yard. Let them grow as a much narrower hedge which is later trimmed into tree forms and reaches and screens above the fence. Based on some of the prior discussion, I'm going to speculate that one potential problem that could come up is not devoting enough depth to the planting beds (that are likely to surround most of the yard.) In general terms, this bed(s) ought to be allowed 6' depth as an average minimum. There are usually instances where it can easily be deeper, and possibly some instances where it can be shrunk to 4' when sacrifices must be made. Plants require space and trying to maintain a bed that is too skinny/shallow is not only difficult & more demanding of maintenance, but it doesn't look very good either. That's something to be mindful of....See MoreNeed landscaping advice please zone 7B
Comments (6)None of those are likely to thrive in that much shade. And wire vine is just that - a very aggressive vine that will climb anything close by so really a poor choice for a groundcover. I've seen it 10' up into trees and shrubs! For a shady area under trees and for moderate foot traffic, Vinca minor would be my first choice. Can be an aggressive spreader under the right conditions but dry shade will slow it down. Ajuga reptans would work also. Pachysandra would be another choice but grows taller and will tolerate less foot traffic....now and then is OK. Deadnettle, Lamium maculatum, is another possibility but not great for much foot traffic....See MoreSkip laurel, cherry laurel or wax myrtle for Zone 7a hedging?
Comments (10)You didn't say how high your hedge needs to be. Are deer a problem? How's the drainage? No for Prunus caroliniana. It is a tree and can get damaged in winter. But there may be other Prunus such as Skip laurel, provided they get enough moisture. It can get 8 to 15 feet. Prunus laurocerasus 'Otto Luyken' works for many years. Doesn't get much over 4 or 5 feet. But can eventually get white scale and die out. Euonymus is great provided your area is fenced from deer. Golden euonymus, Silver King euonymus, etc. Wax myrtle may work, but can defoliate in really cold winters. Also, snow loads can break them up, which is discouraging, but deer don't like them. You might consider Viburnum pragense. It's a bit course, but with shaping looks fairly good. Takes regular maintenance. Stays evergreen. It's tough and deer don't care for it. Leaves droop in coldest weather. Then there are all the hollies, such as I cornuta 'Burford', 'Needlepoint', 'Carissa', I. cornuta Rotundifolia, Ilex crenata and all it's cultivars, the Blue hollies and all their cultivars....See Moreraee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
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mad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)