Point-of-use hot water for kitchen (Plumbing x-post)
8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
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Point of use hot water heater for my kitchen?
Comments (3)Tom, Tankless heaters add about four seconds to the wait for hot water. It takes about two seconds for the heater to get going and standard water heaters keep hot water in the first 10 feet of pipe or so, which reduces the wait time a couple of seconds over a tankless. Make sure your hot water pipes are insulated. Insulated pipes reduce the speed at which the water cools off between uses. Your dishwasher runs through a few fills, in part to get the hot water to it and get the dishes hot. By the time it gets to the wash cycle, the water should be hot enough that the built in heater can boost it up a few degrees if needed. I do try to rinse out pots, etc. with the hot water before running the dishwasher so that it gets hot water in the lines - but it probably isn't necessary. I would recommend a point-of-use heater - esp. if you wash your hands and that sort of thing where you need hot water immediately, and for a short period of time. Most of the time when we are in the kitchen, we are doing things that keep the hot water in the line, esp if they are insulated. However, if that's not the case for you, then get the heater. Plumb it in series with the hot water line so that it's not heating "cold" water. You will get more GPM out of it that way. Also, it allows the regular water heater to take over once the hot water gets to the point-of-use heater. A heater that can produce 3 gpm at a 40 degree rise should be fine....See MoreFeedback on point of use water heaters?
Comments (5)Using electrical resistance to heat water is THE most expensive way to do it. You could afford to waste a lot of water waiting for it to come from a gas heater before coming anywhere near the cost of using alternative electric heaters. That goes for your dishwasher and clothes washer too. I also have units with internal heaters but we always run the hot water in the nearby sink to be sure that they're not heating stone cold water to run their cycles. "Our natural gas costs are also proposed to go up substantially in the near future so I'm not sure we actually save a whole lot using a gas heater vs. an electric heater" You don't say where you live, but where I am in Northern California, most of our electricity IS produced from natural gas. That will increasingly be the case nationally as coal is phased out so electricity prices will also increase as gas does too. No matter what happens to the price of natural gas, it'll always be cheaper to burn your own in a water heater than to use electricity. If you decide a recirculating system can work for you (are your hot water pipes accessible?), have it done so that the hot water runs in a circle to/from the water heater, not the kind that dumps "cold" hot water into a cold water pipe....See MorePoint Of Use Water Heater
Comments (5)The plumbing codes state that the T&P discharge line must terminate outdoors or it may terminate into an approved indirect waste receptor. The IRC states that when terminating the T&P discharge line outdoors the line must point directly downward and the discharge end must be within 6" of the average terrain. Under the UPC the discharge end must also point downwards and it must be within 6" to 24" above average terrain. On the one hand it could be argued that the dirt floor under a crawlspace is outside the structure and therefore it would be okay to terminate the T&P line providing you had the required ground clearances however; the codes also state that the point of termination MUST BE in plain view. The intent of this provision is to call immediate attention to the homeowner in the event the T&P discharges. It could then be argued that if the line is terminated in the crawl space it is not in plain view and in this case a potentially dangerous condition in the water heater could go totally unnoticed. There is a very simple solution. The line could run down into the crawl space, turned horizontal and run to the nearest exterior wall, where it could be passed through the exterior wall and terminated as mentioned above....See MoreKitchen Hot Water - house with low water pressure
Comments (10)OK, i take it back. 1st. Before the copper pipe in the house, you may have galvanized pipe outdoors. The municipality has to replace it. ( "... i think its more a problem from the street as neighbors complain as well..." ) If the entire house was a low-flow (or low pressure) problem, this is the cause. It will be felt as a low pressure problem because of the restricted flow. This is called dynamic pressure. But before you turn on the tap, the pressure might be (static pressure). A pressure mater is inexpensive, easy to get at a hardware store, and easy to install. It will help you identify your problem more clearly. Or, you could just ask the city to change the supply pipes, since you and several neighbors all have the same problem. You have to let a fairly large quantity of water flow, in any case, to get really hot water to the sink "for cleaning pots and pans" The need is to get Hot Water to the kitchen. This does not depend on the 1st thing above. If the flow and pressure are low, it will increase the time you have to wait. But nothing will change this for the better. Except one thing: new city supply pipes (outside). The Distance between the kitchen and the hot water source is what determines the amount of wasted water before you get hot water. That, and whether the pipe is 1/2" or 3/4". Where is your tank? It is normal for the first several seconds to feel warm water, not hot. This is because the heat is being lost to the pipe at first. Once the pipe itself gets warmed up, the water temperature at the faucet is much higher. Hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: pressure versus volume, in 3/4in. or 1/2in. pipe...See More- 8 years ago
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