Sorry this is a tad off topic - but Sandy, do you know which variety of Lavender you have?? :) I have only one plant that I found last year, it's the Provence Lavender. It only got a couple blooms last year, but it was its first year. If it does well this year I'll buy a couple more (as I'm TRYING to make myself plant in groups of at least 3 from now on. Haha) I am interested in having a few varieties of Lavender though and would like to get some that other people have had butterfly luck with. Thanks! My butterfly bush has lots of new growth coming from the base, and tiny leaves on all the old wood as of this morning. I do not think I have Nanho Blue though. Mine is a darker purple with red eyes, and the butterflies LOVE it. I got it as a cutting from a nearby bush. ;) I've also seen hummingbirds around it, and even got to see a Zebra Swallowtail last year! Haven't seen one of those since I was a kid. :) I hope yours do ok. Good luck!!

Well I'm not any kind of a rose expert, but since nobody else is saying anything, I'll give my opinion anyway!:) First of all, I disagree that potted plants shouldn't be fertilized. You don't need to fertilize plants that are just temporarly going to be potted, but if they are staying in the pot for a few months, they are going to need some nutrients, or they'll start turning yellow. Fertilizing sparingly would probably be wise though. I'm not sure whether the yellowing is caused by lack of nutrients or not though. Are the yellow leaves evenly mixed through the plant, or are they just on the bottom, or just on the top? Heh heh, I'm all for squishing short brownish worms. There are way more bad unknown ID worms that will munch through your plants then good ones, so I get rid of them. Pictures are always good for idenitifying species. You might be able to look on google and find pics of your nasty bug if it is common enough. Heat stress can cause yellowing, especially in potted plants (what?! heat stress, THIS YEAR? Yeah...probably not. But still. Those black containers can really cook) Or over watering. Personally, I think I'd get the roses out of the pots and in their permanent spots ASAP. It's not that roses can't survive potted...but if they are in the pots they came in, there is a good chance that there isn't enough room in there, or their roots are getting too hot, or not draining well enough. It's just easier to pin point what the problem is once the rose is settled in and you can eliminate problems that are simply due to being potted. These are all just suggestions, because I don't have a ton of rose experience. I would mention that my Emily Carr and Morden Blush that I planted last year looked slightly yellowish and less that gorgeous for the first couple of months after I planted them - even though they continued to bloom beautifully. Then they perked up, and this year they look really good. I think Emily is fairly tough, so if you get it planted and take care of it the way roses like, it should be just fine.

I grew Red Peanut, here in OK, two seasons ago. It made a compact bush with twining, 3' runners. Upon seeing how they twined I gave them some support, but they did not climb. Perhaps they would have if provided support earlier. I once received seed of a family heirloom bean, from the very family who had raised it for about 40 years. They always grew it as a half runner. But when I gave it support it easily reached 10-12 feet. I greatly prefer to grow it as a pole bean, myself. Penny Rile cowpea is noted for being of less vigorous, vining growth than many other varieties. When I give it support it tops 10'. I grow it both ways. George Tahlequah, OK

look at the budeyes before you prune or deadhead. If the budeye is facing away from the main part, then it will grow away. If the budeye is facing toward the center of the plant, then it will grow toward the center. BUT you want to keep the center open to help prevent disease. That is why many people cut above an outward facing budeye. I would wait for spring and move the smaller bush. That's just me though.