Not a perennial but.... really neat flower (indoors)!
woodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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aftermidnight Zone7b B.C. Canada
8 years agoThyme2dig NH Zone 5
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Best time to start these flowers/plants indoors
Comments (7)Yes, and some of those seeds will benefit from or need a period of cold to help break dormancy. So winter sowing will provide this in your zone. Most perennials won't bloom until next year anyway. So you really don't need to get them going as early as possible (or do you?). Do you have seeds of all of these already? Your list is so large. Can you narrow down to a few must-haves?...See MoreIs it too late to start perennial flowers from seed indoors in So
Comments (5)I often start perennial and biannual seed in July. Right now I have shasta daisy, sweet william, foxgloves, painted daisy already germinated and am waiting on delphinium, columbine, salvia and sage to get started. I find it much easier to get them started outside when the soil is already warm and the temps make germination faster. If you start seed in July you can expect the plants to flower the following year. Some perennial and biannual seeds are very easy and some are hard. I follow directions on back of packet as far as if the seed needs to be covered or needs light and some need to be frozen for a while, set them on wet miracle grow potting mix, water well, but gently and put in a shady place until germination starts and then I move them to an area that gets a few hours of morning sun a day. Once their first set of true leaves is out I will move them into a place that gets 4 or 5 hours of morning sun. When their second set of leaves shows up the seedlings will be moved to either a nursery bed in my veg garden or for some into their permanent spot right away. The bulk will go to the veg garden and those I might cover with shade cloth if it is very hot (it will be in Arkansas in August). The hardest thing is to keep the soil moist while germination is going on and when they are vey small. Sometimes I have a complete failure, but for some like shasta, sweet william, foxgloves, painted daisy, gillardia they are so easy you will get dozens of plants. Almost always I get at least a few. Well worth the couple of bucks the packet of seed costs. Hope this helps....See MoreIdentification of leaf of perennial flower - Monarda/(Bee Balm)?
Comments (9)Thank you all for the info!! I have two flats-one of monarda seedlings and one of joe pye weed seedlings. The labels washed out and I couldn't tell the difference between the 2 flats. I am transplanting them today so I really needed to know which is which. Thanks to your "rub the leaf" trick, I now know which is monarda and how to tell the difference-it smells like oregano. So again, thanks, Val...See MoreDid I really want a Perennial Border? [g]
Comments (21)hi justmetoo....thanks for your honest opinion. Just what I was looking for. :-) If you think that view is disjointed, you should see what I have to look at facing the other end of the border. [g] I have one issue that influences the back lot line. A small completely fenced in yard gives me a slightly claustrophobic feeling. The split rail fence allows me a borrowed landscape of sorts that although at the present it has some elements that are distracting, I am hoping to screen with shrubs that will allow for a more open feeling. Besides a lot of what I don't want to look at would still be visible above a 6ft high fence. I doubt very much that I will replace with a solid 6ft fence along that lot line. The particular corner of the lot in the previous photo is directly under a maple, so I am having a hard time figuring out what shrub/s I could place there that might grow and fill in the corner for a screen. Right now I have placed a small Ilex glabra as a test for this year and see how it does. If it did well, I could put a group of them there with something decidious that might give me a 5-6ft height? I might want to add a taxus, but they are so slow growing. Maybe a Rhododendron might do the trick. I would be happy to fill that whole corner with a 'mass' of plant material. Not sure what you meant by 'smashed up' in reference to the border...but I think I am following you when you point out that the veggie garden and border are fighting against each other? Along the lines that idabean was saying. Idabean, I hope you remember the name of the designer you were thinking of. Following along with that line of thinking, veggie gardens are pretty practical and getting in and out of the small raised beds needs some space around them to keep working access....wheelbarrel access. Someone suggested adding bays to the long line of the border that would move into the veggie area and I am mulling that over. I do seem to view the long border in thirds, so two bays where the 'thirds' meet might work. Using bays would bring the perennial border into the area that the veg beds are, more. I might be able to do that more artfully and still leave the access to the beds. I can also try to prettify the veggies growing in the beds as much as possible, which is always a goal. I'll have to give some thought to perennial/vegetable combos too. Height..budget has kept purchases small, so hoping that will become less of a problem. Focal Point...will give that some more thought. Evergreen I am working on and I have some grasses ...Indian Grass, Little Bluestem, Pennisetum Hamelin, some Carex. Not placed correctly yet. A path through the area...definitely have been planning that just not there yet. Interesting idea about the stones. The purpose of the stone edge, was to raise the bed up a little. I couldn't raise it too much because I was afraid of the root zone of the neighbors trees not appreciating changing the soil level too much, but many of the plants I wanted to grow needed good drainage. I am not crazy about the look of the edging. The rocks were given to us free and I would prefer something flatter, consistently colored and two layers, but I am making do for the time being. I like your idea of more natural rock arrangements...but conflicting with the practical for me again, which is how to raise the soil without something to hold it. I do have clay soil and everything grows a lot better with even that small elevation. I am going to come back to that edging and see if I can't improve it. Might not be a 'this year' project, but if I can finish some other things and could concentrate on that next year, I might be able to do something really much better with it. A few more photos looking in the opposite direction along the border a little later in the season. View over the veggie garden in late July, the border behind the veg beds ends in the corner where the two fences meet. That has given me a lot to think about, thanks. A number of good ideas to think about from everyone. :-) If anyone has more, keep them coming..! pm2...See Morewoodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
8 years agoThyme2dig NH Zone 5
8 years agowoodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
8 years agoThyme2dig NH Zone 5
8 years agoDeb 215 SEWI5
8 years agoUser
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agowoodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agomnwsgal
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoDeb 215 SEWI5
8 years agoperen.all Zone 5a Ontario Canada
8 years agoUser
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years agowoodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agowoodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
8 years agoThyme2dig NH Zone 5
8 years agomnwsgal
8 years agowoodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agomnwsgal
8 years agoUser
8 years agoUser
8 years agoUser
8 years agowoodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
8 years agorouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
8 years agogyr_falcon
8 years agowoodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
8 years agosocalgal_gw Zone USDA 10b Sunset 24
8 years agoaruzinsky
8 years ago
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woodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., CanadaOriginal Author