LED experiment
addicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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addicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Smart Pots?
Comments (4)A plant can't grow beyond its genetic potential, so a container won't make a plant grow bigger than it would its perfect natural environment. The Smart Pot website advises people to use the same size smart pot as they would a regular container. There is a study comparing roses grown in plastic pots to those grown in smart pots using two different media. The roses grown in a bark based media in smart pots were a little larger than those grown in a peat based media in either kind of pot. The study convinces me that the media you grow in is even more important than the container. Here is a link that might be useful: See the evidence here...See MoreLED users: advice from your experience
Comments (41)I've only been using LED downlights for about 9 months, but my oldest lamps, BR40s made by Lighting Science (both their Definity brand at 3000k and the Home Depot Ecosmart at 2700k) are going strong. Our au pair never turns out the lights, even on a bright sunny day, so these have been on for at least 16 hours a day (full blast for 8 or more hours a day, dimmed at night). Almost as old are two Phillips Airflux BR30s in 2700k and 5000k, and a Lighting Science Definity BR30 (GP30) at 4000k. The reason I went with LED in the first place because (1) we were going through halogens left-and-right (lights left on all day), (2) LEDs are dimmable, and (3) the halogens left on all day really warmed up the kitchen and family room. Right now I'm experimenting with Feit/Utlitech 22-watt (1350 lumen) BR40s in the basement. The previous owner had installed 65watt Br30s in the 6-inch cans, it was like a dungeon down there. As each bulb burns out, I'm replacing it with LEDS (also, the au pair never turns out the lights in the basement). They are WAY bright and dim well, but I've only had them for a month. One thing I have learned is that I definitely prefer 3000k over 2700k (2700k is too dingy), and 4000k over 5000k (5000k is too blue, and 4000k seems to be just right). So far, only Lighting Science seems to make bulbs in those colors. I did try a CREE CR6 (it didn't fit my cans), but I was unimpressed with the brightness and color....See More48v dc led wiring for a new build; xm-ls, etc.
Comments (11)Thank you very much for your post davidtay. 1. A LED lamp/ strip is more than just the emitters soldered onto some wires (or copper tubing) that are in turn connected to some power supply. My bundled figure for transformers, driver circuits, and wiring may have been a little low, but I think it's close. I didn't break it out b/c I was already a little long-winded. :) I did leave out the cost of copper, though; I'm not sure that's the way I want to go anyway. 2. The LEDs will need to be powered at the voltage (and current) ranges specified by the manufacturer, which may not be 48V. The current might have to be lower than 1A for the sake of longevity. Right, the particular one I mention can be driven at 2A, but it'll last a lot longer at 300mA. I was thinking about driving it at about 700mA. Of course, I would have to design/purchase a driver that will, among other things, step down voltage if necessary and supply the right current to drive at the proper amperage. And, of course, the things burn brighter at 2A than at 300mA, but last longer at 300mA, meaning that you have to buy more to achieve the desired lumens. Definitely a balancing act. 4. The BOM cost goes down when millions of devices are built. However, the manufacturers, especially for something as hot as LEDs, and requiring as much design expertise as they do, set their markups liberally, too. Still, the case can be made (elsewhere) for the value of a purpose-built custom system, when it comes to LEDs, and that case has been made elsewhere, so I won't belabor the point. 5. The wiring and power supply setup for an extensive low voltage system will probably be a significant undertaking. There will be significant design, ... and regulatory hurdles (i.e. - building code) to clear. I believe in most jurisdictions electric code compliance starts at 50V. Anything you do under 50V DC you're welcome to without constraint. Of course code has to apply to the transformers, but generally not after that. At least, those are some of the motivations I've been riding on when trying to decide whether or not to do this....See MoreAnyone have experience with Parmida led downlights?
Comments (4)My electrician put in 43 Parmida 6/7" LEDs in my ceiling. So far we've had 6 of them drop their plastic lenses off which is two piece (lens and a slick wrap band). I've tried gluing them back without luck. I also find the top of the LED is held by two very flimsy small screws in raised plastic. Half the ones I took down the wire broke off that top and it also holds the led board in place. I replace with Halo - much better construction. Given the broken ones were only 1 year old any small price difference is irrelevant to me....See Moreaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoPhil UK zone 8b
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA thanked Phil UK zone 8baddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years agoaddicted2plants Southern IL USA
8 years ago
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