laat2, I don't think the fall told us the condensation was happening between the panes. My guess it's not but rather on the inside of the inner pane, in which case as sfjeff says, it's a normal thing with gas ovens and for the reasons he says. It's almost inevitable: when the oven is first turned on the glass is cool, burning gas creates lots of water vapor and you get condensation. fall, my guess is either the BS venting made it more obvious than with your previous gas ovens or maybe you're watching more closely with a new appliance but this was almost certainly happening before, you just didn't notice. After all, there's normally not much reason to have the light on and be looking into an oven that's preheating. Now, on the issue of cleaning between the panes, that is a problem. Mine have collected four years of dust between panes and drips from a spill that managed to get through the vent holes. I'm trying to decide if I want a clean oven window badly enough to disassemble the door.

First I haven't read every post so I may repeat something said earlier. We too have a Venmar 1.8 HRV. Note that there is a difference in operation between an HRV and an ERV. The ERV recycles home moisture back into the home, the HRV does not so it does reduce household moisture. How much flex duct do you have in you installation? Flex duct perfectly installed creats a lot more static pressure than metal ducts. Turns out we have a lot of flex and a flow test on our HRV system showed very low flow levels as a result. I suggest you have your HRV system checked for flow volume; you may be surprised at how little air you are really exhuasting. Some Venmar 1.8 numbers: CSA F326 10cfm per Kitchen Dining room Living room Master bedroom(20) Bedroom #1 Bedroom #2 Bedroom #3 Washroom #1 Washroom #2 Basement (20) Total 120 cfm at high speed ASHRAE Standard 62-2001 Volume of basement Volume of main floor Volume of second floor Total (7,360 ft3) (7,360 ft3) (7,360 ft3) (22,080 ft3) x .35 7,728 ft3/hr ÷ 60 (min/hr) 129 cfm (high speed) Metal Duct capacity (short runs minimum elbows) Duct Diameter Recommended Airflow Maximum Airflow 4âÂÂà40 cfm 60 cfm 5âÂÂà75 cfm 110 cfm 6âÂÂà120 cfm 180 cfm 7âÂÂà185 cfm 270 cfm 8âÂÂà260 cfm 380 cfm Go to venmarces.com and get the manual for your unit. After you have resolved these other issues and you still have the problem try interior or exterior storms. One more point. A parcel of air at 70 degrees and 25%RH will reach 100%RH at 30 degrees. If your indoor RH is at 25% you will have condensation on the first 30 degree surface. I think Rollie mentioned that and it brings other issues into the picture. For instance, air leaking through a wall, think switches and outlets, and hitting a 30 degree surface; that is not good! Go to buildingscience.com for a lot on this subject. Hope this helps! Jim

Oberon - I did a post with you in the title as I could not make this go through for some reason. This time it worked. Thanks for replying. The condensation is on the exterior of the inner window. There is no condensation inside the house and no condensation on the interior or exterior of the storm window. There is about a 3" gap between that large inner single pane window and the storm window Hubby caulked the outside of the storm window because of all the bugs that were coming in and dying. He took off the storm window and cleaned everything out sometime last year and put the storm window back and caulked it including the little round space where the missing hinge was. The other hinges were fine. On both sides of the large "fixed" single pane/storm window are small Harvey windows that open - they are part of the whole picture window package and were here when we moved in. There is no problem with them. Now hubby needs surgery for his neck/back problem according to the neurosurgeon and can't go out there and take out the window. I don't know who to call or who to get to do what. I would think if there is no gap (no more bugs in there) there would not be condensation either. I can't remember if there was any condensation in there during the winter but there has been a few times in the warmer weather when we have heavy rains and high humidity. I hate the sight of the droplets running down the inner window and I CAN'T GET AT THEM AS THEY ARE NOT INSIDE THE HOUSE...grr Please, if you have any suggestions as I can't afford a whole new window now -- the whole thing including the narrow Harveys measures about 114" (Harveys are 18" each) but it looks like all go in one HUGE frame. HELP! I am in Massachusetts. It has cleared up now but we are in for another hot, rainy week into next week and I am worried. Thanks.

If you hired a general contractor, your contract is with them, and you should be conferring with them regarding questions or concerns about any aspect of your project. The exception would be in the event you have contracted directly with others to perform some portion of the work. HVAC systems need to be designed and specified. This is best done in the design phase as construction details (e.g., type and thickness of insulation; type and performance of windows and doors, home's orientation, etc.) affect the HVAC. You might, for example, find it more economic (and comfortable) to add insulation and reduce the size of your heating and air conditioning system, or to opt for better performing windows and doors to reduce heating and cooling requirements. Once the home is under construction, it's more difficult to make those choices. If you hired a design professional, I submit that the design of the HVAC system should have been included in the scope of their work unless specifically excluded for some darn good reason. If they don't have the expertise needed, they can hire a third party, but it needs to get done as part of a comprehensive design effort--not construction.