Never heard of it, but turns out it's concrete with crushed glass (and seashells). If this is the look you want, sounds like a good option for you. I would consider quartz (Caesarstone, Dupont Zodiaq, Samsung Radianz, etc.), because the quartz/stone aggregate is probably tougher than the glass. If you or your SO is VERY hands on, DIY poured-in-place concrete counters sounds like a very cheap option that will give you the same look. Lots of people make their own custom concrete countertops with pebbles/aggregate/glass etc. that is essentially this. Here is a link that might be useful: DIY Countertop

There are really only a few types of recycled counters: Particles in resin or concrete, reclaimed (buy the counters from Craig's List or architectural salvage and rejigger them to fit, or other salvage that didn't used to be counters also cut to fit), and the materials that can be melted down and remanufactured like glass or metal. Slab glass counters, whether recycled or not, can be problematic for a high work zone. They can nick, chip, etc., and even shatter. Bioglass is made by compressing recycled glass for years until it fuses and transforms. It's gorgeous, and tougher than ordinary slab glass, but very expensive, and considering the production process and shipping, the only environmentally sound part is that it's keeping that much stone from being taken from the earth and that much glass from potentially going into it. Terrazzos, which many of the glass counters are, with concrete substrates, have all the downsides of concrete, primarily etching and chipping. The resin ones hold up better, if the name material is ground up fine enough (Quartz counters are stone dust with resin and very durable). I have sunflower seed husk board, husks in resin, on a non-work counter, and for my table. It does react to water and has a few chips and divots, but is holding up pretty well after four years considering how big, and delicate, the husks are. There's a recycled marble that uses large chips of broken marble in resin. It has a totally smooth, polished surface, but you can see the depths of layering, which is pretty cool. It looks a bit like chipboard. :) Because it's stone, it might hold up better than some of the other larger bits slabs, but I don't know for sure. It still might have little bits that occasionally chip out. Paperstone isn't meant for heavy wet areas. It shouldn't rehydrate and pop out if there's no coaster like my husks, but don't leave pools that can get to the paper part. :) You can get any material you want anywhere you want it, if you're willing to pay for it. Having it shipped on a carrier that was coming to your town anyway isn't a significantly greater environmental issue than whatever it took to get what you can buy locally there. If you want new but relatively low impact, go for tile. There are also quite a few kinds of tile which are made with recycled content ranging from stone to glass to scrap ceramic. Some have post consumer recycled content, and all have industrial waste. The big question is why do you want recycled? If you're really trying to make not to impact the environment, go reused/repurposed with material that is already where you live. If you're trying to encourage manufacturers to use the materials that are already out there rather than digging up new, and you're fine with the resin part, then Eco might be a good choice for you, or one of the recycled stone or paperstone versions. If you just want it because it's cool, the sky's the limit. :)

Thanks for the feedback. I am ok with a little asymmetry with the sink but my husband is firmly not! In our last kitchen remodel, the top of a door frame came out a tiny bit off level and it bothered him on almost a daily basis...so I believe that the asymmetry of not centering the sink on the window would drive him crazy! We are also somewhat limited regarding pushing back the peninsula. The windows on the far side of the peninsula come down lower (below counter height) and having done all the reframing we did with the last remodel we are trying to keep this remodel much simpler. Regarding DW placement, we originally had placed it on the wall to the right of the sink but I realized that we would probably keep our plates and glasses in the cabinets above and I would struggle to reach to put things away (I'm a short one). So, we decided to move it into the peninsula. We could move the DW to the end of the peninsula to uncramp the sink. We did have a lazy susan in the blind corner at first - I think we opted for a blind cabinet with some sort of pullout instead to allow for more useable room to the right of the sink. The "lazy susan" label must not have gotten removed. I do love the banquette idea! Thanks for all the thoughts, please keep them coming (even if I "yes, but..." them).

Re. septic, we recently had the property surveyed, and have spoken with the town sanitarian, so we know what we have to do in that regard (addition to the side = too close to neighbor's property; we have an acre & most of it is in the back). Great point about "tunnel-like" if the fridge is there, hadn't considered that. Yesterday, I tried to start all over again taking everyone's feedback into consideration. Harder than a Rubic's cube! Am now thinking it makes sense to shorten the addition wall jutting out on the left from 3' to 2' (would definitely need support post/wall somewhere in the middle), put the dining room table a few feet out from the left side picture window (if you look at our current layout, it's really just moving it a few feet fwd, wouldn't feel like it's right in the middle of the living room, and I'm flexible with what the living room furniture would consist of - know I could make that work). That leaves an open run from the left living room area to the addition to adjoin a second table for company, but now the peninsula doesn't work - too close to the table/s. Also, move the desk area to the back right wall side of the addition where I had proposed the dining rooom table, and put a pantry cabinet or closet where the desk proposal is instead (I do like the desk that way more in back of the house). Major problem now is that the kitchen seems to be getting too small again?! Revised kitchen layout proposal??? I'd be happy to keep the sink and range generally where they are now (DW is to left of sink); do want to see into the addition while at the sink - that run of counter could be half wall with support post/wall near middle (but lose upper cabinets unless have thick header with small high cabinets above), or it could be full wall with pass through window-like opening above sink. However if the window is too small it doesn't look right, but the bigger it is, the more upper cabinets are lost; move the fridge anywhere it makes sense; would love an island - a peninsula seems more realistic - main function as a serving buffet with a couple stools on the far side; and although I see the benefits of a prep sink, I've never had one - am willing to do without. I've been working on this for 4 months now; can't believe how hard it is! Thank you, thank you, thank you!