As far as ordering cabinets from HD, it's pretty fool proof. In our case, we did our own measuring, sat down with HD and made a plan, took it home, re-measured, and considered each and every cabinet and space before we worked up an order. Actually, we did that multiple times. In one of our "take it home" phases, we discovered that we'd mismeasured by 1" on one wall. Because HD uses a program that will not allow you to stuff a 15" cabinet into a 14" space, as soon as we corrected the wall measurement, the program highlighted what else would need to be changed. When the cabinets were set for both placement and type, we added in the extras like toe kicks and molding. Having gotten it all right in the plan, the computer program prints up a list of all the stuff that needs to be ordered - in excruciating detail. When the moment comes, you need to sign that you know exactly what you're paying for. Since we did our own measuring, we also had to sign in blood that the measurements were on us if something wasn't right. Once the order was in, all was good. The cabinets were shipped directly to us and the delivery guys were very good about making sure that what they delivered matched the paperwork. At install we had a drawer face that was just a little too big and that was resolved promptly and without fuss. For another set of cabinets we bought for our bedroom, we had them sent to HD and we picked them up from there. We were avoiding a delivery charge on that one as there we many fewer cabinets. Besides the pain of unloading those monsters at home, that also worked fine. A real concern would be if you were working with the kid who was recently hired and just lacked experience with kitchen design. This wouldn't be a bad order problem, more of an iffy design problem. Our guy had done this for years and actually likes kitchens. That does make a difference. Your degree of involvement also makes a difference. I finally talked them out of a copy of the catalog that has all the cabinet possibilities in it, so that I felt sure we had the best options chosen for our space. We did our own install, so we didn't use their subs. Had we not, I think I might have liked to hire our own installer vs. using whoever HD sent.

I do want a landing space for mail and the paper, keys and stuff that I can deal with on a small counter and hopefully keep off of the island. Just wondering if I should do a counterheight unit with no stool space - all lower storage -> countertop then upper cabinets...do the upper cabinets come out the full depth of the lower unit (in this case 21") or are they not as deep? And - what would be the distance from the counter to the uppers?

All -- thank you so much! If I could send you virtual Gift Cards to the restaurant of your choice, I'd send at least a $100 for a decent meal and couple of drinks :) (Sigh, I know I'm too cheap, been in New England for too long.... ok fine, make that $200 for a really nice meal). Your feedback was hugely appreciated and ever so timely. I took today off work and worked on the plan (said differently, wasted the WHOLE day), and have submitted it to the cabinet shop/company I am working with. Once I have their plans, I will post. Changes today -- aisle widths have been a concern to me. I reworked my island layout (see below), which includes current widths. I also trotted up to the attic and measured my faithful old round table and chairs (to be used in b'fast area, and before you ask -- I like the table, it has a lot of family history, and hopefully will refinish it :) ). Based on how we would sit in the old kitchen, and how we will sit in the new, we sit facing out the window. We have a nice, long sloping lawn (before, used to look at birds a few feet away at bird feeders, we will miss that). I have always love the idea of a command center--i.e., you're prepping away in front of your guests, so this does appeal very much to me. From Drop Box While not optimal between desk and island, I believe it's something we can live with. Marcolo -- Thanks so much for chiming in, I hoped you would! Long hike to pantry -- good point. Will consider other locations for this. Fridge clearance - point take. (Half day spent on reviewing panel fridges) Fridge swapped. Drawers - I take your point re 1 shallow, 2 deep. However, one of my goals for the new kitchen is organization - I love idea of home for creme caramel cups, for example -- why I liked the idea of more, shallow. Remembering that you can compartmentalize a larger space... will take longer to sink in. Cabinet over fridge to be pulled forward, definitely. Angled corner cabinet -- another point taken. Wait for drawings from cabinet co. In the meantime, please ignore ugly jog in countertop (s/w not cooperating). Enough storage for flatware/dish/glass -- definitely unsure about this. I think I measured loosely and thought I'd be fine - but right now, in temporary kitchen, I'm storing things on top of chairrails, so... have lost track. I've added a cabinet to the left, and both are configured for a 4" drawer, and then two ~8 " drawers. Yes to the MW drawer. Brianadarnell - good questions/comments, all. THANKS! Straight upper cabinet wall, check:) Swapped fridge and went the (virtual) pricey route of the built in Liebherr. Regarding beverage fridge -- DH has asked for only 1 thing in the remodel; a beverage fridge in the island for his -um- malt beverages. Unfortunately, hampered by the requirement to provide seating on the island for our two kids and three neighbor friends, I lose out on being able to place essential items such as warming drawers, and unfortunately, even more important items such as - um - redundant malt cooling storage facilities. To accommodate DH, I am placing the overflow malt beverage storage unit as close as possible to his work zone (read GARAGE/OUTSIDE). As this unit may need to contain beverages of a non-malt nature (read - wine), rest assured that this unit is capable of cooling appropriately. Also, there is also primary location of fridge, for 'overflow' storage. The pantry/laundry room will be open to the kitchen (no doors); there will be sorting drawers for the laundry (scroll up to see picture); when laundry is brought in and dumped on floor / countertops, it should be sorted right away. (Currently, we open the door to the basement, and toss down.... rather nice!). The range wall is an outer wall, the garage (to the right of the kitchen). This is the room through which we will normally enter and exit. There will be a mudroom, with coat storage and storage space for the hockey bags :) -- beyond that is the 'fire room'; we're in New England and keep a fire going here in the wood burning stove for most of the winter (Oct - April; it's a long period). Large storage for big pots and pans - hopefully, most of these will go below 48" cooktop; current plan is 4 drawers; 2 on top, 2 below. Hi Houseful -- as always, thanks for your input. You're right about the M/W, have moved to the right of the ovens. The plan is for pull-out laundry bins (to the left of the washing machine); laundry is dumped on the floor or C/T and then sorted into 1 of 4 bins (whites, colors, darks, delicates). So, hopefully, laundry won't ever sit out. Rachel -- Wall is gone, LOVE the idea of symmetry/tiling right side. Thanks! bmorepanic -- you get the Platinum Gift Card; please select the meal/venue/virtual Gift Card of your choice! I spent the day reviewing your aisle notes/recommendations; they were so very helpful. While not perfect, my plans have been improved due to your input. Good catch on the angled wall in the pantry; another casualty of the original plan vs. reality.... I've adjusted the island towards the stove per your 36" suggestion. Your advice re. larger cabinet size is appreciated and will be reviewed carefully. My only comment is that if you have tons of space in a new kitchen (egad, you should see my former (combined) baking station/coffee station/dish cleaning/prep area/library,etc. -- all crammed above a 24" cabinet) - then there might truly be a place for everything.... On my plan, when 'pullouts' are designated, I plan a handle which can be tugged to pull out the cabinet (vs. open cabinet, then pull out). I'm obviously not calling this the right thing. Thanks, I do very much agree that the double motion should be avoided. Good points on the opening issues. Double ovens will receive 1" filler to the left. Would appreciate any feedback on items in final drawings which don't seem to be paying attention to this. You have a knack for really understanding a picture. Thank you for the comment regarding pulling out the hood as well. This, I hadn't yet considered. Designov - would like to see your layout; hope you are able to post. Fridge wall removed (I'm pretty sure it is not load bearing; DH dbl checking). I don't think I have room to put DW to the left of clean-up sink; will keep in mind. We are getting cabinets from Conestoga. They offer an RTA cabinet and GORGEOUS doors. Onus definitely on you to make sure quote is accurate. I have received quotes from Lowes/Kraftmaid cabinets (6 visits over past 2 years), as well as Omega/Dynasty and alternate Kraftmaid dealer. I really love the door styles available and feel if you put in the work, you can get a terrific product at a lower price than the big box stores. Computerklutz - would love to see your kitchen/progress as well, please do post pictures once your counter tops are in. (Fingers crossed between now and then that all goes well!). After reading your post and others, I spent a good deal of time reviewing fridge's. Thank you for the heads up. Also -- regarding the microwave -- did you put in a MW drawer at a lower level or a regular MW? From what I've read, people seem to like the MW drawer... but since I have an unopened MW drawer in the basement, I would very much appreciate your feedback! Best regards to DH.

Get out of Kemper Echo and do standard Kemper. They are more comparable to Ultracraft. Or look at Dynasty or Medallion, which is Schuler at Lowes. You need a list of cabinets and trim pieces that you give them. And don't let them ad anything else. That is the ONLY way to get a realistic comparison. Although they have mostly lined up in order of quality correlating with price. Except for the Siteline. Strange that it came in so high. "Custom maker" doesn't say jack about anything real. Faux custom guys abound who order drawer boxes from one company, cabinet boxes from another, and doors from yet a third company. And then assemble it in your kitchen. And then glop house paint on them, and everything else. A true craftsman, who makes everything himself, from 3/4" Baltic birch ply with Grass hardware, and then finishes it in his clean room, with a catalyzes finish, would not likely be anywhere close to only 22K.