When this problem surfaces on a new installation, it is possible (albeit unlikely) that one of the sashes was manufactured slightly too tall. In a situation where there are existing windows that have been installed for awhile, the problem typically arises from a poor quality window that bows, or a poor installation that worsened the condition over time. Modern vinyl windows have fully welded sash stiles and rails, so it is not possible to disassemble. They have snap-in glazing beads that pop in and out for glass replacement. Even the older mechanically fastened units use that same method, and it would be very tedious and not at all advisable to try and cut down the height of a sash. Generally speaking if you are seeing a situation similar to the OP in your inspections with a 15 yr old home/window, it has just about reached its life expectancy. A high quality product regardless of material can/should last far longer, however it is VERY rare to find anything better than "builder-grade" quality windows in a situation such as that. That would be my reinforcement to the OP in this post as well: if it is not something as simple as the upper sash having drifted down (assuming of course that they are double, not single hung), you are getting to the point where you should start planning for replacement with a quality product. I don't want to sound like a sleazy window salesman in saying that, but unfortunately that is likely the case if you want to see any level of improved performance from your windows.

swampwiz, Think of your home as a set of interconnecting elements that function in harmony (or not in some cases) to give you the environment that you desire. While there is certainly value in looking at the different elements individually, as Calbay noted in his post, and I agree, "...it is unclear how to apply it as a decision tool. There are too many unknowns." Also, I would suggest that since your premise is window performance, starting out by discussing "constant: BTU = .00024 KW-hr", "cost for power:", Coefficient Of Performance of an air source heat pump, etc. detracts from the basic idea of measuring or comparing window performance. These are variables that don't directly affect window performance, at least not as I read your intent. I am not suggesting that you don't need that additional information, but I am suggesting that you need to establish a baseline (in this case basic window performance) before you begin adding variables that are affected by, or affect that baseline. In your post you added variation, including at least one unsupported assumption, before you introduced measured or calculated window performance. In your post you suggested comparing a 10 sqft window with U-factor variations of .5, .3. and .25. The formula for calculating Btu from U value is Btu = U x # hours x ft² x Delta T (temperature difference - which I am going to assume 50° for these examples). So, if Btu = .50 x 1 hr x 10 ft² x 50° then Btu = 250 If Btu = .30 x 1 hr x 10 ft² x 50° Btu = 150 and If Btu = .25 x 1 hr x 10 ft² x 50° Btu = 125 These are really simple examples of the difference in Btu loss and window performance rating, it is possible to interpolate the value of improved performance when our only variable (so far) is the U-value (or U-factor) difference which is based on clear/clear (.050), clear/LowE (.030), clear/argon/LowE (.025). But your house isn't confined to windows. It has walls and things as well. Assuming for the sake of simple math that a house has 1000 sqft of exposed wall (125 linear feet x 8') and that 15% of the wall area is windows - we can calculate overall wall performance by changing window performance. By definition, while R-value defines thermal resistance of a material, U-value measures thermal transfer thru a material. The formula for computing U-value is: Btu / (hr x degrees F x sqft) and the formula for computing R-value is: (hr x degrees F x sqft) / Btu and the formula for computing heat transfer is: (BTU/hr) = (area / R) * ÄT With ÄT again representing the temperature difference between what is inside and what is outside the house. Using the formula U=1/R, we can convert U.50 to R2, U.30 to R3.33, and U.25 to R4. However, this time we will assume a less severe environment so that ÄT = 25° If ÄT = 25°, then (10 sqft / R 2) = 5 * 25° = 125 BTU/hr loss or gain If ÄT = 25°, then (10 sqft / R 3.33) = 3 * 25° = 75 BTU/hr If ÄT = 25°, then (10 sqft / R 4) = 2.5 * 25° = 62.5 BTU/hr Keeping in mind that the Btu losses or gains are based on one square foot for one hour and the example has 150 square feet if windows. Combined they equal: 125 Btu x 150 sqft = 18750 Btu 75 Btu x 150 sqft = 11250 Btu 62.5 Btu x 150 sqft = 9375 Btu I am also assuming a typical 2x4 wall with R-13 fiberglass insulation. The overall wall insulation value excluding windows will calculate out to a bit below R-10, but I am also assuming R-10 for simplicity (and laziness on my part). Wall = R10 or U.1 Window = U.5 Window = 15% of wall Wall area = 850 sqft and window area = 150 sqft Wall = 850 sqft x U.1 = 85 Window = 150 sqft x U.50 = 75 85 + 75 = 160/1000sqft = U.16 or overall wall R value including windows of 6.25. Wall = R10 or U.1 Window = U.3 Window = 15% of wall Wall area = 850 sqft and window area = 150 sqft Wall = 850 sqft x U.1 = 85 Window = 150 sqft x U.30 = 50 85 + 50 = 135/1000sqft = U.135 or overall wall R value including windows of 7.41. Wall = R10 or U.1 Window = U.25 Window = 15% of wall Wall area = 850 sqft and window area = 150 sqft Wall = 850 sqft x U.1 = 85 Window = 150 sqft x U.25 = 37.5 85 + 37.5 = 122.5/1000sqft = U.123 or overall wall R value including windows of 8.1. And assuming that I didnt make any errors in my arithmetic, Improving window performance from U.5 to U.3 results in an overall wall performance improvement of 18.56% in this example Improving window performance from U.3 to U.25 results in an overall wall performance improvement of 9.31% in this example And improving window performance from U.5 to U.25 results in an overall wall performance improvement of 28.46% in this example And finally, in my opinion, now would be time to begin discussing "constant: BTU = .00024 KW-hr", "cost for power:", Coefficient Of Performance of an air source heat pump, and any other variables that are affected by window performance rather versus effect window performance. And as a final, final aside, Btu actually = .0002931 Kwh, and there are large portions of the country, primarily California and New York and parts of New England, that have already exceeded the $.12 Kwh.

Outlook email program used to be attached to whatever version of Windows you had...in other words, if you had a problem with outlook you could not uninstall it. You could not uninstall it without uninstalling Windows as well. Course, it was outlook express not outlook... outlook was the program used professionally, in the workplace.... I'd guess in your companies intranet. eta: Windows no longer comes with an email client/app. Out of all the email programs out there, I prefer outlook....it's clean, it's not full of ads, targeted or otherwise, or junk. Click on the MENU icon and COMPARE from the dropdown and it will list everything it does and does not do. Oh, all this can be synced across platforms/devices... your phone, tablet, pc etc Office and all those other apps/programs come with outlook.com. When you open your email, at the top is a task bar and all the way over to the left just beside where it says outlook.com you'll see the Windows icon of 9 window panes.... if you click on it you'll see all those programs listed, plus OneNote, Sway (which is new and getting good reviews... lets you do slideshows very easily and other things) anyway, here is a link to the outlook.com page where you'll see an approximation of the listed programs I see in my email box....I don't know why they are different... the one at outlook.com lists skype, my inbox taskbar does not, and mine lists sway and that one doesn't. Mine are listed, in order, from left to right top row Outlook.com People (which is your address book and this is also where you access Skype) Calendar OneDrive (Windows version of Drop Box, synced to all other programs listed) Word Online All these are synced and can be shared bottom row Excel Online PowerPoint Online OneNote Online Sway Office Online eta: when I open Windows I sign in to my microsoft account....this is how these things are all synced..it is password protected, you can also use a pin....if I'm remembering correctly, you need to do this PW or PIN to sync all your microsoft/windows apps/programs... When I recently upgraded to Windows 10 this stuff (my MS account and settings) was already set up as a default because that's how it was when i was using Windows 8.1 Outlook

I am in the same boat as @Adam Francis, @nancyperezrod, @Chad Lang, @Joel Newton and possibly others, with a Jeld-Wen Single Patio Door, and an Emtek Multipoint lock (see pic) with shoots on the top (head) and the foot (sill). The only difference is that it is only ONE swing out patio side door. I also spoke to the Tech team at The Connectedshop, who are amazing with their customer service. After sending them all my measurements, they spent a good hour explaining to me why none of their smart products will work on my door :-( The reason I am sharing all this is that I am based in San Jose, CA, and am hoping for a local locksmith who may be interested in doing the custom work that was suggested above by @eoc1212 and @Andrew Sobiev. I am willing to bite the bullet take out the Multipoint lock assembly, and put a regular smart Schlage solution which I have on other doors. However, need a Locksmith as I am not familiar with making holes and insertions through metal and wood. I hope to get a direct message soon from a locksmith, and I wish everyone else all the best! Cheers.