Thanks for replying. I assume the trees are lost, but was why I was asking. Do you think they aren't? >>>> If they were kept dry from first bloom until temperatures stay hot or the rain quits, you'd be home free For new healthy trees in the future, rt? Though moisture makes for optimal environment, it spreads from the bees. My blossoms were definitely hit first. >>> I was told to peel back the bark of the part cut off and you can see if you got all the fb Yeah, I did the bark peeling to check. Obvious is easy. I just can't discern yet natural darkening or flecks of the inner bark and young wood. The UC IPM pics are of older woody trees. Per the docs, FB continues to move with normal growth (affected by light, fert, water, and vigor) and head toward the roots. These are pushing out a 2nd growth flush, I guess why it spread so fast in the last 3 weeks. I have 5 of these pears (Bartlett/Danjou). Two were clearly gone as the lower trunk is showing black under the bark. A third has it on the upper and middle trunk, but I'm hoping I pruned off enough. Two others don't have any symptoms but they were crammed right up against the others. They should have it, too. The HoneyCrisp Apple I special ordered (and paid dearly for) had ONE blossom cluster die back with brown symptoms. But I'm hoping it's not FB as it's probably in the trunk by now, since the blossom was on a low branch, right near the trunk. I wonder if painting the trunks made it worse. The paint would've kept the fungus/splashes from landing on the trunk (good) but it kept the rot nicely hidden from the sun and I assume allowed it to thrive easier. Frustrating... This must be why my young Fuji died last year (it only had two branches as I pruned it heavily when I first got it, per HMan's advice). It never had a chance after that.

d d , you are making a number of ascertians that I think are making you do things that will not prove of benefit. First, you associate water as a saviour, something the grass needs and needs lots of. If a pint works well, then a quart will do better and a gallon will just be the cat's meow. That's wrong....very wrong. Grass is no more than a bunch of small plants that grow together and they need nourishment just like other plants....but when too much is too much.....it cant help. One inch per week is recognized as the total volume needed for a lawn to live successfully. Too much is as bad as too little; what happens is, the water doesn't stick around, the roots are deprived, they grow weak and short and the sun then has an easy time to bake the soil. Too little or too much...it works both ways. Your lawn cries out for aeration....from your pictures there does seem to be a lot of thatch....dead material between the blades. When thatch builds, it deprives the soil of necessary oxygen and water. Even tho you water it, and rains have been overflowing, unless the ground absorbs the moisture, it cant do any good. Without explaining what aeration is comprised of....do read articles on 'why a lawn should be aerated". There are many methods and tools employed to effect good aeration....so read about it. Your lawn needs something to make the soil want to take in moisture and retain it. You say your soil in your vicinity is mostly sand....and when you think about....how good does sand retain moisture. So you have to do something to make your soil want to take in moisture and keep it....yet allow good drainage. In that there is an easy and effective way to achieve this. Organic matter. Organic matter comes in many forms...and only by injecting something of this nature into the soil will it keep moisture. Peat moss, newspaper, hay, straw, compost, topsoil, triple mix, loam, and yes....sand. Grass clippings---you don't have any I knwo, but clippings have a lot of nitrogen from fertilizer given, that should not be wasted. But, clippings have a lot of things wrong with it...and should be given to a compost pile first. Sand used in gardens is not the beach kind...it is a coarser granular type...buy it at a quarry or soil dealer that specifies it is builder's sand. This giving of compost though can be a budget killer---it is not cheap. Compost is material that is allowed to break down by microbial action....and should not be used unless in a completed form. Since your lawn is in such bad shape, I suggest you think to do it over....rototil the ground and inject much organic material. Much of the material can be inexpensive...peat moss, newspapers, old hay, old straw (straw and hay are grown and therefore have seeds and unless its at least a year...two years better--it can drop seeds and result in giving you a barnyard) Put down at least 2"....but 6" is better of topsoil. Rototil it all in, rake level to ensure good drainage, then put down sod or seed. The organic material you add should be at least 20% of the volume mixed in. Do not, if it becomes available, add more than 20% compost to what is already there. More is too much. When you buy seed, buy the best type you can afford...it will pay dividends. Poor seed will not grow in the best of soil---but good seed will grow in the worst of soil. In your area of New Jersey a combo of 40% Kentucky Blue, 40% perennial ryegrass and 20% fescue makes a good tough grass for your area. Its summertime now....the heat of which is not conducive to making good lawn---the heat can kill the seed and what sprinkling you do will dry out quickly. So, keep what you have and shake your head, but think to do your lawn in the fall when cool temperatures return. Grass grows much better at that time because there's less competition from other plants. Sprinkling water over it will not be lost to evaporation and if you follow good principles of grass making, you should have a pretty good starting lawn sometimes this fall. Starting: Be sure to use a "starter" type fertilizer when you first lay your seed. It can help speed up and protect germination. Next spring, put down 2" of compost (or topsoil) over the area and let your grass grow up and through it. Repeat this every year, fall and spring, 2" layer over your lawn....at least for the next 4 - 5 - 6 years. Making this a regular routine can help your lawn stand up to adversity better.

andrelaplume2, You asked but no one yet responded: "those knotty looking areas in the trunk, whats that?" Are you referring to those oval openings in #3 or to those small clusters of green and pinkish stuff in #4? If to #3, as has been said, they're old wounds which the tree is covering over. If to #4, likely weed killer, probably Roundup or other glyphosate product. Wherein the tree is still alive (as you said: "I scratched a place or two and it was green underneath") but the new growth is severely stunted. Here's further info for the latter: 1. two pictures of damaged stone fruit tree http://ucfruitreport.uckac.edu/SF-NutrientDef_files/Zinc/Zn-Roundup.htm 2. Residual damage from Roundup http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/PPDL/weeklypics/5-15-06.html Bottom line as I see it: If the problem is weed killer, the tree's survival will depend upon several factors , the time of year (stage of growth) and just how large a dose the tree received. For example, a man in my area accidentally sprayed roundup instead of a dormant spray on his dormant leafless pear tree; it took four years for normal growth to return. Here is a link that might be useful: Residual roundup damage

Okay, that helps seeing the other angle. Now, remember that doing this on a monitor is kind of tricky, because perspective and proportion can be hard to judge. Here is what I would try. The first thing I would do is paint the small wall that the fireplace is on (just the little angled one) in a rich rusty fall red. Take the "H" and mount it above the tv, centered, and then add a wood curlique appliques on either side, painted black. Something like this, that will pick up on the shape of the arms of the couch and loveseat. You can get them at most home centers and some of the larger craft stores. Or, iron ones will work if you can find those. first ones on the page Take the couch and put it directly across from the fireplace, at the same angle. Put the loveseat to the left of the couch, at a right angle. Get a table between them to anchor the arrangement, with a lamp if you can. Once you do that, your little black chest may have to move. You could try it under the window, and add a colorful bench cushion on top. A fabric or leather ottoman, maybe round, would be a nice addition to work as a table and additional seating when you need it and would pick up on the curves of the furniture. I don't mind the clock being on that wall, and in fact I think you need some taller things there to balance the fireplace and the windows with the drapery when you get it. What I would do is once you move the furniture, take a look at that wall. You might add some floating shelving that is arranged in some kind of staggered fashion with the clock as a part of the grouping. That would be a place to add some touches of color with vases, art leaning on the shelves, etc. If there is room below that, you could add a console table and lamp there. As for your counter stools, I would do them in a brown-black, that would bring out the colors in the cabinetry but not be as strong as a solid black. Colorful cushions would be a nice addition if you like. Then bring in the drapery/window treatments in the dining area. Add a throw and a few pillows. Maybe a runner on the dining table with some red. If you are worried about the fall leaves feeling out of place year 'round, look for some berry stems in the reddish color, or some tall orchid stems in that color (oncidiums or cymbidiums would be nice). Mix in some grassy stems and a couple of larger green leaves, and it will work for you.