Portland has a zone 8? Is that Sunset zone or USDA zone? Doesn't really matter other than to make the point that there is a lot of zone 8 in Texas and the deep south. Zone's are worthless bits of info when it comes to lawn care. You actually do have compacted soil! This is not a first but it really is rare. Driving a car on a lawn that gets regular irrigation (i.e. Portland) is going to compact the soil underneath. If you want to do this right, in my opinion you need heavy equipment to rake this and level it. The tool is a box blade and it comes on the back of a tractor. It is not a tool you rent and learn how to use over the weekend. It would require hiring a landscaper. Cost varies all over. It would be worth a few free quotes. If you want to try a less invasive approach you could cover the lawn in an inch or so of mulch for a few weeks. Mulch has the effect of allowing the soil underneath to revitalize itself with constant temps and moisture conditions. I'm thinking the compacted soil might fluff itself up when the soil microbes are allowed to repopulate in there. If you have other leveling issues away from the area where the soil was compacted by the car, then the mulch might not be enough. How does the property drain when the rains come? Do pools of water form or is there a stream of water running through anywhere? Or is the soil raised above the surrounding concrete which would allow for drainage. Is the house clearly above the soil level by at least 4 inches (to the bottom of the "sill plate")? Does water pour or move toward the house when it rains? Is rain gutter drainage away from the house? I'm asking because leveling can be a DIY job if the situation is good. If you don't have to remove soil, then you can do it yourself. We always ask what kind of grass, but in this case, it probably doesn't matter. But it might matter. What do you plan to do with the yard? Will it become a baseball diamond or is it just for looking at?

OK, now the rest of it. >>They really hide all the blemishes, even the big obvious ones where the trees were removed. Shh. That happens in every lawn photo. :-) >>-The 32 lbs of Mag-I-Cal is the total amount I put over the whole lawn. I know it's much stronger than standard calcitic lime. I think (hope) I did my calculations correctly. Good. I once accidentally overapplied 12 pounds per thousand to the gardens and watched the plants turn yellow. Calcitic shouldn't be applied at more than 9 pounds per thousand square feet at a time, with a minimum of 3 months between applications--and repeat only if pH is extraordinarily low. -I'll revise my Milorganite schedule to cut out the June and July feedings. I'm not sure about feed stores nearby, I'll have You certainly can if you wish, or not if you wish. While I tend to recommend against summer applications on healthy lawns, it's not exactly going to be a problem. Quite the opposite, and if you notice color fading badly in the summer sun, feed it. It might need the free iron. >>application. So basically for the same price I'd get more bang for my buck out of the soybean meal? I know dchall That does depend. The bag rate for Milorganite is 14.4 pounds per thousand. I generally recommend 20 to target 1 pound of available nitrogen per application (organic N does take a while to work in, so far less than that is initially available). For soybean meal, 1 pound of N per K is 15 pounds of soybean per thousand. So you're using three quarters the amount to do the same feeding job. If raising OM is your goal, neither soy nor Milorganite is technically your best choice. Cracked corn requires 60 pounds per thousand to supply the same 1 pound of N per K. Which means it's less likely to smell terrible at very high levels of application (decay scent is nitrogen compounds--less nitrogen, less smell, as a general rule and all else being equal). >>uses Alfalfa pellets, is there a reason you prefer soybean meal over alfalfa? Is Alfalfa more expensive in our region? For me, it's pricey. To get that 1 pound of N equivalent, alfalfa needs to go down at 50 pounds per thousand, more than three times the rate of soybean meal. Since it's about the same price, the nitrogen is three times as expensive. Northern lawns don't benefit--and actually can suffer delays--from too much alfalfa put down at once. 20 pounds per thousand per month is the maximum rate the guru I learned from recommended. >>-I definitely understand what you're saying about just spot spraying weeds. Seeing the amount of crabgrass that is popping up this year, though, By all means area spray if the problem is widespread in the area. Spot spraying is great, but sometimes clearing the deck initially is required. >>I think I still want to use a preemergent in the spring. I've spent several hours the past couple weeks pulling crabgrass and it's continuing to pop up faster than I can pull it. Pre-emergents are wonderful. I spray Prodiamine once a year for a 9 month shield. It's not perfect, but I'm also not complaining about 90% effective. I haven't pulled a weed from the stone patio in years. I don't have to. >>I expect improvement as my yard thickens, but one of my neighbors yard is 100% weeds, so I may always have a bit of a battle on my hands. You've seen my lawn? The lawns to the southwest, south, east, northeast, and north are weed pits. No worries, your lawn can outcompete any weed. With the possible exception of some of the Poa genus. >>-I've considered edging my driveway with some landscaping, but like the idea of the grass going right up to the edge of it, mainly to keep the mowing as simple as possible as ridiculous as that is. No problem! We all have our aesthetic preferences. >>Like dchall said I'll stick some tuna cans there the next time I water and see what's happening. I'll give it one more season and if I can't keep control of it maybe I'll throw in some landscaping. At the very least maybe an 8" border of light colored pavers will be enough of a buffer. Good plan. Keep in mind that areas bordering pavement may require watering more often. When I designed my irrigation system, I did it so that the south face of the driveway was zoned with other things that need more. Now if I'd remembered to do that on the north side...but no matter. I'll eventually turn that into another 20 square feet of garden attached to the gardens on either side of it. >>-I'll have to sneak out and chop off some of that pine tree. If the branches are over onto your property you have every legal right to cut them off at the property line. It might be impolitic to do so, however, so I fully support your decision to wear black and do this at 2 AM. Storm damage sometimes comes up so suddenly and takes off just a few branches, huh. >>The grass isn't totally barren, it looks fine from a distance, so I'm not at the point of giving up and mulching it yet. Also try feeding and watering it a bit more than the other areas of the lawn. Sometimes hard-pressed grass just needs a hand up. -I was afraid of that answer about the chipmunks. I do enjoy seeing them out there but they need to leave my plants alone! I'll try the Tabasco sauce, maybe line the base of the plants with chicken wire, stick a hose down their holes and the spread the cat litter. If they still persist, I think I may resort to the rat zapper. Looking it up, at least one site states that there are no repellents registered for chipmunks. However, it also says that any squirrel repellent will work on them. Sonic repellent device(s) might be another idea. -When I said "possibly with a slit seeder" that was my weak way of asking if that's a recommended method. I've never used one and I'm a little worried it's going to do some damage. Will I see much better results with that vs just using a broadcast spreader after aerating? You'll get great results with a slit seeder. I got great results broadcast spreading seed on the soil (no aeration, no raking, no preparation at all). Assuming this is in blank areas, topdressing with 1/8" of peat moss to hold some moisture might be a good idea. For general lawn transmission, that's unnecessary, expensive, and time consuming.

Can you post a couple pictures? The best time to photograph a lawn is when a cloud goes overhead. It would be good to see from far enough away to see the trees and then a close up of the dry spot in the middle. Did you have Marathon in Calabasas before? If not where? And what was your watering regimen (how often and for how long)? Can we assume you are watering this lawn the same way? When were the last two times you fertilized, or have you fertilized yet? Hopefully your close up picture will help someone here to identify your current grass type. Different grasses can be eradicated by different means. Sometimes it's as simple as stopping watering. I'm not sure you will ever be able to apply enough water for those trees. That is a lot of timber to keep moist. The tool which professional landscapers use to prep a garden is a box blade pulled behind a tractor. This is what it looks like in action. The ripper bars you see on the box blade (like a rake sitting above the soil in the blade) can be used to remove most small roots, but there is a limit. When you get ready to get rid of the trees, you might want to consider major stump removal, not grinding, and root removal throughout the rest of the yard. For those two jobs they might bring in a small bulldozer or other heavy equipment.

Hi, We bought our house 12 years ago. Keep in mind, soil will do several different things if it is not taken care of. Grass, trees and almost anything that grows will affect the soil and it's general slope over time. The back of the property meets the alleyway. Our lot was equal to the level oh the alley. I had to replace the patio and raise the slope so water would run into the alley instead of pooling in the back yard at the wooden fence. Then, we had to change the slope of the rest of the back yard and iths sides of the house to make the water flow along the property lines on each side. We put in pipes to carry the water to the front of the property on both sides. The front of the house out to the street has a 28 inch drop on one side and a 40 inch drop on the other side to the street. I took advantage of this by creating different level garden areas. We now have controlled run off during any type of rain. And, very little runoff when watering. It takes some care each year. The soil changes as I add compost or other enhancements or plants. Sorry for being so long. It took 4 years to correct 90 years of mistakes made by previous owners. Respectfully, Pa