Husband and I finished an 2 story 18 x 24 addition about 4 years ago. Even with subbing out some of the work, it was of course, more money and more work than we anticipated. Same old story to anyone who has ever... I know husband can do this with help from my 2 adult, still living at home, mooching sons LOL but - hubby has a bad back and is 62 so no spring chicken. Plus we are finally talking to each other after 4 years! Can't get anyone else to call me for a quote. Even with referrals these guys either don't call back or are no shows. Willing to do some demo to save time and money. All I have read from various Garden Web articles is that it is not a HUGE project (I only have about a 13' span and I have architectural specs) so I don't understand why somebody wouldn't want to come in for a quick buck. Hate doing it but I guess I will start calling names from ads in our local paper to people I don't know or have any referrals.

Paul Vla Sen Ko: Double some 2x6s and drive plumbed 2x4s under them to hold up each side of the ceiling joists. Demolish the headers and framing and install (2) 12"x15' Laminated Veneer Lumber members fastened together with a heavy nailing schedule and construction adhesive. Make sure the ends bear on framing that transfers the load to the foundation. Around $300.00 in materials, but you can probably get a refund on the 2x6s if they weren't cut and just have nail holes. I'd take me a day with an unskilled helper. Of course, follow all the previous advice and get this approved by your local division of inspection.

Thank you, I can get up into the attic. What do you mean by the structure of the ceiling. It looks like a normal attic ceiling with 2X4 beams across it and pink insulation. What should I look for. I assumed it was the structure of the walls that was important but I can see that the ceiling would important too. Is the danger that it could pull down the ceiling rafters?

Joseph, Being a homeowner myself, I of course am in the same boat as you with regards to wasteful spending of potentially unnecessary services for a home remodel. There are many situations you would not need an engineer to help you with a design. Adding a simple header for a window/doorway to a load bearing wall through a licensed contractor who knows what span tables to use for the region is an example. It really depends on the situation and the person's competency. I gave this situation some more thought, and it basically boils down to two options for a typical homeowner: 1. Are you willing to accept the life and death risk/consequences of a structural decision/calculation you make? You may not get sued or goto jail for a structural collapse that kills your loved one, but are ready to live with that decision? Do you have a complete understanding about your particular situation to make an informed structural design decision? Are you confident the age of the wood/beam in question is in good enough condition to use span tables for shear, moment, and deflection requirements? Beams can fail in multiple ways. Do you know how to inspect wood for this criteria? Do you know the knott to clear wood ratio required for a certain construction grade of wood listed in span tables? Do you know how to calculate when too many nails, screw, holes is too many? Do you know when it's safe to assume a species of wood, and when you need to be conservative? Do you know how to visually identify a beam that is likely load limited by moment, shear, or deflection? Do you know how to identify a beam that is typically subjected to a distributed load but must be designed for a point load in the same or different direction? Beams that are improperly sized typically do not just collapse immediately, they collapse later under a circumstance not accounted for. Licensed structural engineers spend their careers understanding the modes of failure and designing for them. When a building does not collapse under normal or extreme situations it is not an accident, everything is calculated to save lives. Licensed civil engineers are arguably responsible for more lives than any other professional field, it justifies the difficulty in getting the license. or 2. Are you willing to spend 3-400 dollars on an engineer like me who will spend a few hours to look at your home, make some quick calculations, and generate a basic drawing with their stamp? The stamp guarantees a sound design with serious legal consequences if that is not the case. Those consequences follow me long after I retire, and include fines or even imprisonment. No civil engineer wants to provide their stamp without adequate investigation because of how serious of a commitment it is, but we will do it when we are confident in the design. It's our job. My stamp has the power to override provisions in the building code, and forms the legal basis for a claim against a home 20+ years down the road, you could not say the same for other trades.