Is there a right way to do a crawl space?
mary
8 years ago
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Comments (5)Let me start by saying I've never done this, nor even considered doing it...however, there's a guy in my orchid society (he has won many AOS awards, and has run out of kids and relatives to name them after) who starts 'grooming' the buds when they are first emerging. He has wedge-shaped pieces of styrofoam that he uses to separate/space the buds so they "present" well. He uses a light meter, turns the plants to orient the inflorescences from the time they are just nubs. Nothing anal about that, eh? Way too late for your plant, but you can start planning for the next blooming now. :-)) Cheers - Nancy (my plants bloom in disarray)...See MoreInsulating enclosed crawl space
Comments (2)I probably would of attached, the plywood first, to the floor joists, then the rigid board to the plywood? Make much of a difference? Yes, the builder followed Code by covering the foam board with a thermal barrier....See MoreAnyone use CleanSpace (encapsulated crawl space) on their home?
Comments (85)Great comments everyone...price ...can be between $2- $3/sf. Anything more is overkill. As to the smell of some companies poly ... there was a run 4+ years ago where a handful of manufacturers that made a poly that was white on one side and black on the other and was reinforced. 1 of 10 after several months to a year started smelling like cat pee and got stronger. I ripped out a handful of these crawl poly's. I wouldn't blame the sealed company's only because we all look for a deal on plastic to pass on to you ... and the odor doesn't start for awhile...that could be 400 crawls in 6 months for a handful of us. That's 40 of them stinking and 30 notice enough. About the DIY'ers ... I have DIY hardwood floors ... brakes... toilets...etc ... It takes me 6 months to get a diligent guy up and going on crawls where I can let him run and inspect his work after. I couldn't imagine the $ lessons learned that a DIY'er gets into. Just know it takes one really experienced crawl space tech and 3 new techs to finish correctly a 2600 sf sealed crawl using 50 labor hours. Know that 50% of your homes air comes from the crawl space so a poorly prepped sealed crawl can trap some pretty nasty mold. Dehu's: to use or not to use??? Tests show that mold has not grown in sealed crawls that use a 4 inch air supply line per 1500sf with average height of 2.5 ft. Though the humidity reduces down in the South (Raleigh Area) to 68%-77% when sealed still leaves high humidity compared to the average homes humidity of 52%. But mold does not grow. Why? I can only guess ... A. Ground, where mold comes from, is sealed off B. Air is slightly circulating from the air supply line on your supply side. And a dehu wholesales $1000 average ... then install and electrical hardwire hookup and gravity fed condensation line. $1600-$1800 should be fair?? And that will take your humidity down to your chosen level ... most, I have found, chose 50%. Now here's the rub ... your dehu is taking up a chunk if not all of your energy efficiency that your conditioned sealed crawl gives to your AC system. So if you don't take the old insulation out and seal in the mold and the defication from the crickets, mice and snakes and you aren't getting any efficiency out of the sealed crawl ... then why invest $ at all??? No savings or better air quality. My recco: pull floor insulation, sanitize entire crawl for SUPERIOR lifetime air quality ... seal crawl and forget the dehu and gain 15.8% energy efficiency on new homes past 2008 ... higher efficiency for older homes. My pet peeve.... if a home has mold on the beams and evidence of cricket poop ... little black pellets all over the joists ... I wont seal it without pulling the insulation and disinfecting the crawl. But 95% of all companies seal the crawl trapping in ALL THAT MESS and that's there standard seal crawl practice. That should be criminal!!! Like all the contractors who knew back in early 1900's that lead based paint was killing children but kept using it because it was cheap ... until 1970's when a law was passed after ??? more than a million baby's past away. I feel mold in the crawl is that same issue that is slow to REAR ITS UGLY HEAD ... buyer beware ... short cuts can hurt you long term. www.SealedSolution.com...See MoreWater Heater PRV Discharge Line into Crawl Space?
Comments (7)Code requires that both the water heater PRV discharge line and the furnace condensate line must either terminate to free air outside the structure or into an approved "indirect waste receptor" The termination point of a PRV discharge line must point downward. When extending a pipe through a footer wall we must install a 90deg elbow on the end of the line to turn it downwards. (This is to minimize the risk of scalding water spraying out of the line and hitting someone standing near the point of discharge) Under the IRC when terminating outdoors the line must terminate within 6" of finished grade. Under the UPC it must terminate between 6" and 24" above finished grade. When terminating into the house DWV system or a storm drain system such as you have the PRV line must terminate a minimum of 2" above the flood level rim of the drain receptor, whether that is a floor drain, utility sink or a sump vessel. (The intended purpose of the 2" air gap is to prevent bacteria from entering the line and potentially going up the line and into the heater vessel.) In your case, you could install a tee on the storm drain line and stub a section of the storm drain up slightly above grade, then mount your PRV discharge line pointing down into the open standpipe. Just make sure that the bottom of the PRV line is 2" above the highest level of the riser from the tee. (Note, your 4" line is a storm drain therefore you are not required to install a P-trap below the riser.)...See Moremary
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