Marvin casement window sash removal help
11 years ago
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11 years ago- 11 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
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Marvin window sash rubber defect..
Comments (6)sorry window guy didnt mean to take your name. With regard to shimming the sides.. there are NO shims on the sides, only the tops and bottoms. so it can't be that they were shimmed "too much" on the sides to cause the bowing. They're saying it could have been due to the spray foam insulation (used the Good Stuff), however the instructions do NOT say i can't use it. And if screwing into the sides of the frame would stop this problem, how come the instructions say to only nail through the fins? i'm not disputing that a PERFECT installation wouldnt solve this problem. My issue is that the design of the windows makes them more susceptible for the bowing to "pinch" the rubber. If i went with Andersens this wouldnt be a problem because on the 400 series the sides of the window are flexible....See MoreMarvin French Casement vs. Casemaster
Comments (2)You are right. The smaller the window the less problems. Be sure to lock your window every time you close it. This helps to keep the sash and hardware matched up. I believe Marvin has a pivot pin on the hindge to make small adjustments. Have you considered an awning unit, opens from the bottem. You lose some ventilation, no site lines and less $$$$....See MoreSash Kit advice - Marvin or Windsor?
Comments (14)1st measure first, typically you want a whole number since it will be cheaper. measure at 3 points and go with narrowest measurement. If is measures over a whole number you will have to shim the jambs if it is measuring under, even an 1/8 you will need to order that window under sized or modify you jambs to accept a stock size. You need to make sure your windows are very square if using a window that can not be cut down. First thing to check is the distance between the stool and the blindstop, you need 3 3/8 spacing so the tracks can move freely and don't bind. I move the blindstop to get this spacing. Then check the the width of the jamb, shim it out if needed the full width of the jamb, I use 1/8 x3 3/8 shims cut from paneling. sometimes the jambs are tilted and need narrower shims behind the 3 3/8 shims. Next put the brackets on, they should be installed with nails or a specialty staple gun. Do not use screws since the heads will create pressure points. you may have to drill first so you do not break the jambs Then put jambliners in, make sure they are completely snapped in to the brackets. Then install the window, it push the lower sash down , if it goes down to hard it may have been shimmed to tightly, if it springs up on it's own it was not shimmed enough. Make sure when the sashes are closed that they make full contact with sill and the head of the jamb other wise they will leak air. I use windows that i can cut so they meet the jamb and sill.If cutting always start with bottom sash, if is out of square you will need to cut it at a compound angle, if it is square and needs to be cut for height only then cut the top of the upper sash. next make sure there is no movement up and down if there is shim behind the upper sash in the jamb with 1 3/8 shims till it is tight. I would recommend flash the wells and blinstops with aluminum coil since in finishes the look , andcovers hard to paint areas, and seals in the lead paint....See MoreMarvin windows—can I mix casements and tilt turns?
Comments (11)Let me clarify something since this has caught some attention. The reason for Marvin's decision (as I was told by the rep) are 1) declining sales and 2) Marvin is building very large Ultimate casements (both in width and height) so it was deemed, there is no longer a need for the T/T. BTW An inswing Ultimate casement is available (or was as I haven't quoted one in a while) as a special quote. The special handling of this raises the price so 90% of the time, my customers decide the standard outswing is just fine....See More- 11 years ago
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caroline94535Original Author