Snowmageddon ==>>>> lol ... this is Snowmageddon ..... https://www.mlive.com/weather/2019/02/snow-piling-up-in-upper-peninsula-as-marquette-has-more-snow-than-its-had-in-a-decade.html i had a small hate for hummers ... they used to buzz my head .... until i figured out ... that it was my orange baseball cap ... i mean really ... if you are a bit jumpy about things buzzing your head.. like bees and wasps .. etc ... a freakin hummer will make you nearly wet yourself .... cuz it sound like a jet near your ear .... lol ... anyway.. i changed my hat.. and i liked hummers again ... im like.. dude.. i have 5 acres of flowering plants for your enjoyment.. can you at leasst give me the deck just outside the front door ..... reminds me of attracting cardinals ... i could not figure out why certain days... it seems like a hitchcock movie with all the loony red birds all over the place ... and then i realized.. it only happened when i left my red wheelbarrow out ... and the little winged freaks couldnt tell a female from a wheelbarrow.. whats that all about ... lol ... if you want to attract them.. put up a red flag ... ken ps: thank god i dont live in upper MI ...

They may be but do not harvest until dryer. You can put one of the small fabric bags that you can find at craft stores around the pods to catch any loose seeds but only bag them loosely. Bagging too tight can cause fungus and rotting.

Seeds stored in a refrigerator can last much longer than seed stored at ambient temperatures; but as already mentioned, they should be in a sealed container to exclude moisture. A mason jar works well, and the desiccant packets mentioned by Xiangirl offer extra protection. Frozen seed lasts even longer, sometimes for decades. Like refrigerated seeds, frozen seeds should be stored in an air-tight container. Before being frozen, though, the seed must be dried to a very low moisture level. For me, that is as simple as leaving the seed on trays until the indoor humidity has dropped in December; but in humid areas, it may be necessary to use desiccant (drying agent) in a jar to dry the seeds. A good rule of thumb is that if you can bend the seed without breaking it (for small or thin seeds) or if the seed does not shatter when hit with a hammer (for large seeds like beans, peas, or corn), then the seed needs further drying. I can't over-emphasize the importance of properly dried seed, regardless of how the seed will be stored. For both frozen and refrigerated seeds, the container should be allowed to warm to room temperature before removing seeds. If exposed to the air while still cold, moisture could quickly condense on the seed, which could kill the seeds, or severely reduce their viability. It is worth mentioning that seeds received via the mail in Winter can be damaged the same way, if opened while still cold. I have had good results storing most seeds in zippered plastic freezer bags, in a cool part of the house. It helps to squeeze out as much air as possible after each use, by rolling up the bags & packing them tightly into a box or drawer. In areas with low indoor humidity & moderate temperatures, paper envelopes stored in a cool dark location may work well for several years. Part of seed saving is learning what works for you & what doesn't. Hopefully you find out what doesn't work in a way that avoids disappointment. When in doubt, do a germination test well before planting time. That way if the seed fails, you still have time to look for more seed, and don't end up with a dead spot in the garden. Ten seeds is a good number to test, provided there are enough to spare. Elen, it looks like most of your seeds are in small zip lock bags. If they were only in the fridge for a short time, chances are that most of them are OK... but I would still recommend doing a germination test for anything which you intend to plant this year. If you get failures, it might be advisable to test the remaining varieties as well. Nice labeling, by the way. ;-)

I start seeds in modified 511 soil. I sift the 511 through 1/4 inch screen if the seeds are small. If I use a humidity dome I skip that too. In either case I cover the surface with with bark fines (less than 1/8) or some sphagnum moss. I also do all my air layer using 511 but mixed with a bit of sphagnum moss. Cuttings I tend to do in straight 511 but I do use a humidity dome for my cuttings.