What would you do? Moving a fiddle leaf fig across country.
katlandreth
8 years ago
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jane__ny
8 years agokatlandreth
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Fiddle leaf fig - do I really have to air layer to propagate?
Comments (16)@Cassie (8b Southern AZ, high desert) Hi Al, do you normally use the ring or the tourniquet method when you air layer your ficus plants? Or do you do a combination of both (you mentioned using a tourniquet and blanching part of the stem/branch?)? It would depend on the Ficus species. For most Ficus, I propagate by cuttings, because I've found that under mist or in a humidity chamber, you can start some really thick cuttings of many ficus species (3"+). This image of F salicifolia was a cutting started from the top of a much larger tree. Same tree as above - first pruning after rooting ^^^. Ficus microcarpa cutting ^^^ in process of rooting - note new buds opening. Removing the tops of trees in training is sort of a way to create an almost instant bonsai. Once the tree is fully rooted. a little wiring to reposition branches will turn it into a 'believable' tree, resembling something one might see in nature. If we take the misting and high humidity out of the equation, I prefer ringing the plant; however, even when I use the ring method, I often use a tourniquet immediately below the top of the ring. While I'm thinking of it, the rule of thumb for the ht of the ring is, it should be at least 1/5x the diameter of the branch/ trunk being layered. Also, when you peal the bark back on many species of trees, a very thin layer of vascular cambium usually remains attached to the sapwood beneath it. It is crucial to remove that white/tan layer of tissue as part of the layering process. I'm guessing my reason for layering is probably going to differ from yours. Most plants I layer is because they are seedlings, and as such have a very ugly root system. Strong roots that radiate horizontally away from the trunk and a trunk flare at the base of the tree eventually become a critical consideration for almost every bonsai enthusiast who has practiced bonsai for more than a decade. Eventually, we develop the idea that everything we do should focus on bringing out the tree's best potential, even if we are not the owner who sees it realized. Often, that will result in trees in training for 20 years before they even see a bonsai pot. I couldn't even guess at the number of times I've been a part of brain-storming over a tree, my own or someone else's, and making radical changes that turn a tree which is an acceptable specimen in its own right, back into a bonsai in training for the sole reason a better way to bring out the tree's potential was discovered. The image below is a Trident maple which was air-layered off of it's original set of roots which were way to ugly for my purposes. I used only the ring method for this tree (wire still attached if you look closely). Notice how the roots are almost perfectly spaced (some incongruity adds to the appeal of living plants) and radiating away from the trunk. That is what I was after. The tree below is a Korean hornbeam, and 3-image sequence below shows first what a tree's seedling roots usually look like. Many growers work hard at trying to get these roots straightened around, but I have learned better results cam be had in far less time and with less effort, bu layering the plant off of its old roots. This is one way of using the tourniquet method (below), which takes much longer than ringing/ girdling or a combination of a tourniquet and ringing/ girdling. With a tourniquet, as the diameter of the trunk increases the vascular cambium is compressed as the tourniquet tightens. This 'chokes off' downward movement of photosynthate (the plant's food) and auxin, the hormone that stimulates root development and branching. With food and a surplus of the tree's natural rooting hormone accumulating immediately above the tourniquet, you can be quite certain of a plethora of roots emerging within a short vertical space. With an understanding of the tree's wounding response, I deduced that drilling holes with a 3/16 brad-point drill turned with my fingers and filled with a insoluble rooting gel should help coax the tree into producing an exceptional root base. The roots in the first image (of the trident maple) are the result of this method. Ring + tourniquet method ^^^ BTW - I no longer use zip ties as a tourniquet as they sometimes fail/ break - especially on thick layers on branches/ trunks larger than 1". I use 2-3 wraps of aluminum bonsai wire in size 2-3mm with the ends twisted tight with pliers. The wraps should touch each other, which forces all rooting to occur above the layer. What type of soil do you use when you air layer, since you don't use sphagnum moss? I'm assuming this is one of the few times you want something moisture retentive - do you use a regular potting soil? Peat moss? Seed starting mix? I usually use gritty mix for just about everything I use a pot to layer. Below, there are 2 things going on. I had just finished establishing an air layer on the hornbeam in the background and I was working on pruning 2 China dolls and 2 asparagus ferns. I was layering the hornbeam because the trunk was much too long/ tall given the thickness of the trunk, so the best way to shorten the trunk was to layer it off of it's old roots and start a new root system higher up. The top of the ring cut is at approximately the ht of the duct tape holding the pot together. Below, is a hackberry tree being layered. You can see the gritty mix in the pot This is the same hackberry, same summer, after being separated from the mother plant. In case you noticed, it's planted deep on purpose. I will let it grow wild (almost completely unpruned) and begin work on it in spring of '24. And last question (for now!), what time of year do you typically start your air layering? Spring. I like to have them separated by the end of July. Do you try to time it to plant the new plant in June, or is some other time preferable? If we're still talking about Ficus, spring will always be the best time. If I was layering, I would start the layer on Ficus just before or when I move them outdoors. They really start to want to grow then, so we might as well take advantage of the tree's natural inclinations. I'm wondering if it's better to start the process in June, since you're effectively pruning the parent plant, which would put separating the new plant sometime in August? Geography plays an important role in deciding what the best timing is. I bet you would be fine starting your layers in early May, especially if your plants are outdoors. Then, you should have no problem separating in July-August. Thanks in advance! (And I suppose apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but made more sense in my mind than starting a fresh one and linking back here). No worries. Things are slow on the forum and my wife is recovering from some recent surgery, so I have to be home and indoors for a few more days, it looks like. I'm glad for the opportunity to kill some of the time it always seems so important to save. ;-) Al...See MoreNot sure what to do with my Fiddle Leaf Fig
Comments (3)It's growing sparse because it isn't getting enough light. They need as much light as you can give them. Such as direct sunlight in a southern facing window. Right up in front of the window, not a few feet away. When you moved it, you probably moved it into a location with less light, hence the leaf drop. They really don't like to be moved around, if you can avoid it. Putting it outside next summer when the nighttime temps are above 60° will definitely fill it out. Pruning will also increase back budding....See MoreMoving Ficus Lyrata/Fiddle Leaf Fig Outside for Summer
Comments (50)I don't get how people can't seem to live in a place instead of just squat there. The same people who went through (and PAID for!) the naturalization process and uprooted their lives abroad to get to a country can't let go of the old one. I get ethnic food and fond memories, but if you make a conscious effort to live near and exclusively interact with other ex-pats in the native language, what can you learn and know about the culture and people of your new home? When i have lived abroad (as opposed to simply traveled), i have left my American ways and language at the airport for me to collect on my way back to the US. I never looked for other Americans or spoke English. I interacted with and lived among the people with an open mind. If my language was not sufficient to get my point across, I invited people to correct me so that i learned. I ate the food, i visited the landmarks and learned about their significance. What would i have gained if i brought my flag and waved it to ward off people that were not like me, and only interacted with other Americans? Nothing but distrust of the people and culture of the place i called home. I would feel isolated and unaccepted by everyone around me, unaware that i CAUSED it myself. Everyone would seem like a racist from that perspective, wouldnt they?...See MoreWhat do I do about my Fiddle Leaf Fig? Photos included.
Comments (3)I can't see anything wrong with your plant, but there's a lot of mis-information regarding housplant care, so this info below will help keep your plant on the right track. FLFs love lots of light, eastern light is not very strong and this plant would do best right up in front of an unobstructed south facing window. If it can only reside in this room, it needs to be right in front of the window without the blinds blocking the light. You could even place in on a plant stand or table so that the leaves can catch as many rays as possible. I'm not sure the mirror has any benefit since the reflected light is diffused, but it's certainly not hurting anything. I would however stop misting because it does not improve humidity and sometimes invites pests. If you're interested in increasing humidity you should look into using a pebble tray, but the humidity in the South-East during winter isn't too bad, so it's up to you. The leaves may be drooping due to the soil being too dry currently or the soil retaining too much water. I don't think that plastic bag under the pot is a good idea as it can trap moisture inside the pot. Watering with three cups of water likely didn't water the plant thoroughly. Good watering practice is to insert a wooden dowel or bamboo chopstick all the way to the bottom of the soil - some people think checking the soil with your finger is effective, but it only evaluates the top inch, the bottom soil could still be soggy (over-watering is a common issue). If the dowel comes out wet with soil clinging to it, the soil is still wet and it is not time to water. Check every few days until the dowel comes out clean and dry. Then water thoroughly so that water flows freely out of the drainage holes in the bottom and then let it rest for about 20 min so the excess water can drain out, this is easiest in the shower or kitchen sink. Don't water again until your dowel is reading dry again....See Morepurslanegarden
8 years agokatlandreth
8 years agojane__ny
8 years agokatlandreth
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agokatlandreth
8 years agokatlandreth
8 years agokatlandreth
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agokatlandreth
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agomshcrowder
3 years agoBmey7
3 years agokatlandreth
3 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)