"No toxins" You can drink fabric softener? It is very unlikely to be non-toxic.

Hi Katie, my apologies for the delay in responding to your comment. I've been traveling over the holidays and rare access to a computer. I did end up caulking the gap between the baseboard and the wall. For cleaning gunk out of cracks, I'm starting to like using the bamboo skewers used for grilling that you can get at the supermarket. I had a batch of them in my cupboard and gave one a try and it worked so well, that I'm using them first in situations where I need something pointy. The bamboo is soft enough that it doesn't scratch anything, and I can dampen it and it'll pick up extraneous paper that's stuck in the crack. For some pieces of gunk in the crack, I also used a pair of needle-nose pliers, to extract the pieces. And, while I don't know if it's a bad thing to do, sometimes a piece of gunk would just fall more into the gap between the baseboard and wall, and I left it there. :-) I figured it would just get sealed under the line of caulk afterwards. Wear eye protection! Even if you don't think you need it, wear safety goggles, or at least your eyeglasses if you wear glasses. One day, I was caulking the baseboards in one of our bedrooms for the insulating value, and as I dragged my finger along, a chip of paint flew up off the baseboard toward my face. Since then, I always wear my goggles. About tips for caulking: - Do a search on YouTube for caulking. It really helped me to see videos of people actually doing it. - Get a good caulking gun. I got one from Lowes or Home Depot (I forget which one--I've been in and out of each so much these past weeks!) that was in the $10 range. I love its trigger mechanism. - Hold the gun at a 45 degree angle to both the wall and to the baseboard gap. I mean, this is in three dimensions: as you put the tube tip to the baseboard gap, make sure that it is a 45 degree angle between it and the vertical wall and a 45 degree angle between it and the horizontal-running gap line. (Hope that makes sense--it's hard to explain in words vs a picture. That's why the YouTube videos are so helpful.) - Do not make the hole in the tube too large when you cut it. The hole should not be larger than the gap you're trying to fill. And there was a post on one of these forums about tapering the hole that I thought was useful. While I can't find the posting this moment, I'll add the link when I locate it. Hope this helps! Lee

We had a stubborn border or two at our last house, thanks to the POs. Here's what we did. Score the border with the paper tiger. Fill a bucket with hot water, and add some vinegar and some fabric softener (be generous with both). Get a scrubby scotch-brite pad. Dip the pad into the bucket and start massaging the border with the scrubby side of the scotch brite. Get it good and wet. Keep going over a small area (we did a foot or two at a time) for several minutes. Keep dipping the pad into the water -- you need to get it really really wet. Eventually, the border will start to dissolve and come off on the scotch brite. When that happens, try the scraper. If it doesn't come off, resume the scrubbing. Eventually we were able to get the top layer of the border off leaving just some sticky glue/residue and some of the "back paper". Then the glue came off with more scrubbing and some scraping. It sounds tedious, but once we got the hang of it, it actually went pretty fast. The key was to get the border so wet that it was basically falling apart before trying to scrape -- let the water do the work for you. Good luck!

Hi Sochi and Kristin, gorgeous wallpaper projects! I am in correspondence with several Italian fiber glass wallpaper suppliers now and all of them have different waterproofing methods. The main issue I am finding is that the substrate needs to be white in color and smooth. Sochi mentioned the contractor used Schluter KERDI-BOARD but it is orange, so how did you eventually get it white? Krisitin what did your contractor do for substrate? What products were used to waterproof the wall before the application of the glue, wallpaper and sealants? My other concern is that the drywall or cement board (depending on what to use) has to sit on top of my shower pan so I fear it will absorb water is not properly waterproofed. Any guidelines and suggestions will be highly appreciated. Alex