need help with refrigerator recess
Hi all, me again. Still at it.
I'm working with my cabinets guy. My kitchen is framed.
I had a recess for the refrigerator but then it got moved due to cabinets. It's a minor re-work / change order, non-load bearing studs need to be moved. I need to get this problem resolved though because every step they do on top of this framing issue increases the cost of my change order.
I will have a Frigidaire FPBS2777RF model refrigerator / freezer (french door). The drawings have the refrigerator right next to a structural beam. I'd like to trim as a case opening. I can fudge the trim a bit, but I need to know how deep to frame for this considering the size and water access lines in the back.
I am really concerned that I will not be able to fully open this door, which will cause loads of problems with access to the bins inside (full width one especially). My cabinets guy is on vacation until the 18th (was last week too) so I'm stuck trying to figure this out because I'm panicked.
Exterior measurements of fridge:
- Height: 69-7/8"
- Width: 35-5/8"
- Depth: 33-3/8"
- Case Height: 67-3/4"
- Height with Hinges and Covers: 69-7/8"
- Case Width: 35-5/8"
- Case Depth: 28-1/2"
- Depth with Doors (no Handles): 31-11/16"
- Depth with Doors and Handles: 34-1/2"
If the red thing is a 6x6 beam, finished out with 5/8" drywall, then trimmed with moulding, how can I calculate where to frame the recess? I will add a fill from the cabinet guy to help the door articulate around, but I don't know how wide that has to be, or even how to calculate it. Is 2" fill enough? I'm assuming I need at least 37" wide just for the refrigerator, and can only go 28" deep.
Comments (11)
Rachel (Zone 7A + wind)
8 years agoRelated Discussions
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sheloveslayouts
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
rebunky
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoI do think that the upper cabinets to the left of your fridge may need a filler between it and the fridge panel so when you open the cabinet door all the way the hardware doesn't bang against the panel. I don't know the exact size, but I think normally it is 3", but also depends on the how far your pulls stick out too.
But as far as the right side of fridge where you are framing the wall... Here is how we boxed in our FD fridge with walls on either side to make it look sort of built in. I plan to finish it like a cased opening too...someday soon I hope!
I don't know if this helps answer your question, but for my fridge the opening between the walls is 36 1/2" wide. This leaves just a slight gap of about 1/4" or so on each side of fridge. The wall is 31 1/2" deep. The fridge box (not including the doors) is approx. 28 1/4", so I am guessing that I must have about a 3" gap in the back. The stainless doors sit 'proud' of the walls, as BB mentioned. Both doors can fully open as far as the hinges allow. When we finish the walls with trim molding, it may have to be pulled forward a bit more so the doors will still clear.. Hope this helps.
cookncarpenter
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRachel (Zone 7A + wind)
8 years ago
daisychain Zn3b
8 years agoRachel (Zone 7A + wind)
8 years agorebunky
8 years agoHere is a picture of my fridge door opened up as wide as hinges allow it to go. With my LG model, even if it was recessed to be more like a counter depth with just a 1/2" panel on one side, I think it would still fully open as long as the fridge doors are kept out beyond the wall or panel.
Oh goodness, look at all the fingerprints! Ok, I need to go clean my fridge now... :-)
daisychain Zn3b
8 years agoRachel (Zone 7A + wind)
8 years ago
sheloveslayouts