Herbaceous Borders
thecollegekid
8 years ago
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stockergal
8 years agoRelated Discussions
About getting rid of Virginia Creeper
Comments (5)I have also heard that if you keep pulling or cutting it back and then allow it to form a single new leaf---you will need precious little herbicide to finish the roots. The idea being the plant is starving for sunlight from the constant pulling and cutting and then when it finally gets that first leaf it is very dependant on it for survival. A small bit of herbicide to that single leaf will finish the plant. Now I dont claim to be a scientist....but I did use this method with English Ivy and it worked. YMMV :o) Ronda...See MoreSuggestions needed for pink tree-climber
Comments (9)I suggested the Clematis for the spot because I wasn't sure a climbing rose would work there. I am imagining that a rose vigorous enough to grow into the cedars would also want to get wide and massive, and keeping it attached to the cedar may get annoying. Clematis montana cultivars do get big, but their stems are thin and light, and will climb on their own into the cedars once they reach the lower branches. If you want later color that isn't dark, consider Clematis virginiana or Clematis flammula (both are fragrant white Autumn-blooming clematis) or the pink-edged white 'Rubromarginata' hybrid (also very fragrant). Brushwood Nursery is a great place to order clematis (and other climbers). Copy and paste the links below to see: Clematis montana cultivars http://www.gardenvines.com/shop/search/results.html?search_in_description=1&ignore_special_flag=1&keyword=montana&inc_subcat=0&page=1&sort=3a Clematis flammula http://www.gardenvines.com/shop/small-flowered-clematis-4/clematis-flammula-89.html Clematis 'Rubromarginata' http://www.gardenvines.com/shop/small-flowered-clematis-4/clematis-triternata-rubromarginata-218.html Clematis virginiana http://www.gardenvines.com/shop/small-flowered-clematis-4/clematis-virginiana-227.html And then, of course, google their names to see more pics and info. To break down the clematis "groups" simply, Type 1 are large plants with small flowers, and bloom in late Spring, a little earlier than most of the once-blooming roses. They bloom on old wood, so if you need to prune, you do it right after they flower, giving them time to grow more wood to be hardened over winter and bloom the following Spring. These include the montanas and Clematis armandii (both are fragrant), as well as some others. Type 2 are medium-sized climbers, usually with large flowers. They bloom on old and new wood, and usually twice -- once in late Spring to early Summer (usually just after the Type 1) on old wood, then they pause during the peak of Summer, and bloom again in August/September on new wood. Most don't need much pruning at all besides tidying up in the Spring. Type 3 includes the non-climbing herbaceous clematis, large-flowered Summer-blooming clematis like 'Jackmanii', the small-flowered Summer-blooming species and close hybrids, and the small-flowered Autumn-blooming species and close hybrids (the latter are often fragrant). Those that bloom in Summer usually start just as the Type 2 finish their fist bloom, while the Autumn-blooming ones usually bloom when the Type 2 are finishing their second bloom. Type 3 blooms only on new wood, and so are typically pruned harshly to keep them from getting bare at the base. The general rule of thumb is to find the lowest set of healthy leaf buds, and prune to just above them in the Spring. This might be only 12" from the ground. Of course, you could leave them unpruned higher up if they're trained into trees. In that case, I'd just snip them right above where they first reach into the branches, and only worry about pulling out last year's growth if it looks obvious and messy. :-) ~Christopher...See MoreGuerrilla Gardening
Comments (5)I agree Ziggy, condoms and ornaments? Otherwise sounds good to me. Beautifying a public space using his own free time and funds. He says that he doesnt bother private land, which is good, because, regardless of its state, it still isnt his. Have to admit though, I havent read many articles related to gardening that mention Che and Mao. Hmmmmmmmmmm....See MoreRedesigning new zone 10 garden for shade and water economy
Comments (4)1. Start with RIGHT PLANT, RIGHT PLACE. Find the plants that grow where your garden is, without the need for extra water. Lots of "Mediterranean" climate plants (from the Basin, from Australia, from Chile, from the Cape of So. Africa and from California. 2. Reduce or eliminate the garden water-guzzlers (traditional roses, birches, liquidambar, weeping willow, poplars, magnolia, bamboos, citrus, avocados) 3. Design your garden to be functional. First. And then embellish for beauty. 4. Get rid of the lawn. Completely. No if's, and's or but's. 5. Choose an effective irrigation system. One that trains plants to be drought-tolerant. Drip ain't it. 6. Turn off the computerized irrigation controller most of the time and use your own brain -- and finger. 7. Set up your sprinkler system or hose to avoid watering hard surfaces such as driveways and patios. 8. Regularly check your hose or irrigation equipment for leaks or blockages. 9. Hydrozone -- Group plants with similar water needs to make watering more efficient Plant at the right time. Take advantage of cool fall weather and winter rains by planting in October-November for most Med. Plants. Contrary to popular -- almost universal -- belief, adding organic matter to the soil ("amendment") does not lead to a drought-tolerant garden. Water newly-planted plants WELL. Starting with soaking the planting hole THOROUGHLY before putting the plant in. Cover the ground -- with hardscape or plants. ALL the ground. Mulch newly-planted plants. But NOT the whole landscape. Mulch intense garden working areas: orchards, vegetable gardens. Manage weeds. (do NOT pull them.) Reduce fertilizing. Where you MUST fertilize, use an organic fertilizer. 18 Prune trees and other woody plants only when necessary. Pruning stimulates shoot growth, which increases the need for water. Plant windbreaks where wind is a factor in growing plants (as well as in being comfortable outside). Collect and use rainwater. And design your garden to channel what does hit the ground during the rainy season. Do some homework on gray water usage. What's legal in your area? RIGHT PLANT, RIGHT PLACE. Again. Joe...See Morescottcalv
8 years agothecollegekid
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8 years agostockergal
8 years agochickencoupe
8 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
8 years ago
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