Should contractor charge 20% fee on roofing material upgrade?
9 years ago
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Contract considerations-what should I require from my contractor?
Comments (7)There will always be something you don't anticipate, that's the nature of the beast. Have you had a chance to go to a current job your contractor is working on and see how they do business? This will give you a sense of the crew, work ethic and how respectful they are of a client's property. I was able to go to 2 jobs my contractor was working on and it helped me make my decision. You will be able to see things that you won't want to happen at your job site and then you can put that into the contract. Are you gong to be living on site? How extensive is the work being done? Do you have children? Will you or someone else be on the site during the day or just the contractor? We are living on site (which is no picnic - don't even get me started about the dust...). The crew built me a temporary wall between the work area and where we are living. It has been great - In addition to insulating the wall they also stapled plastic sheeting to keep out dust and debris. You would never know there is construction on the other side of the wall if you didn't hear all the activity. The only problem with dust and mess is in the basement below the construction area (which is where my temporary kitchen is located). They have taken up the sub-floor and gravity being gravity, things come down from above. Now that they are done with the electrical and pipes in the area below the construction we have stapled plastic sheeting to the joists and this has greatly reduced the amount of debris falling into the basement. So ask about what they are planning to do to reduce the impact on your family and the construction mess going into the non-construction areas of your home. Do you have a personal umbrella policy to protect you if someone gets hurt and you are sued? I had 3 bids for my project. I researched and made sure that each company was properly licensed and registered in my state and local jurisdiction to do the work I was going to hire them to do. I also checked to see if the companies had any complaints with the BBB, the state or the county. I also checked if the company and/or the principals were or had ever been sued, declared bankruptcy, had any criminal charges, DWI's, not been paying alimony or child support. Regarding some of the items on your list: The guys doing my renovation use a radio and I like it (we seem to have the same taste in music... there is nothing more entertaining than hearing them sing while they work... I think it helps the productivity of the crew, so even if they listened to something I didn't care for, I wouldn't have a problem). If having a radio playing is going to bother you there is no way you are going to survive a renovation/remodel. My contractor included a porta-john in the contract. My crew has been here every day - except for one day when we had bad weather and the schools were closed (the foreman called and apologized that they would not be able to make it b/c the roads were impassable). We have a "dump trailer" parked in our driveway that they fill and then take to the dump and return. This reduces piles of debris laying around. They clean up as much as they can. Please remember that renovation/construction is not a clean process. Don't expect them to neatly stack their supplies and store lumber in ascending or descending order of size.... If my crew decided not to wear shirts, I could sell tickets and recoup what I am paying on this renovation in no time...... ;). Below are things I would add to the list (I haven't looked at the other threads, so if I am covering old ground.....): Who will be in charge of the crew - get their cell phone number. There could be an emergency in the evening or the weekend and you will want to be able to get hold of someone. How many job sites will this person be running at the time of your renovation? How do they expect to get paid? I pay my contractor in 1/12's depending on targets met outlined in the contract (i.e. framing completed, drywall up, etc.). Ask them (in order to get a better estimate of the actual cost of the job) if they need to poke a few holes in walls, look under floors, go in the attic, look at old plans of the house. I did not think of doing this and though it would have helped with some of the unexpected items, most of them were not known until we opened ceilings, floors and walls. Are they insured/bonded? How much coverage do they carry? Will you have the same crew every day or will new guys be cycling in and out (I have the same crew every day with additional as needed)? Does your contractor conduct background checks and drug testing on his crew? What about the subs? Will subs be allowed on the property WITHOUT supervision by the contractor or his crew? How will change orders/change of scope be handled? When there are questions/issues and more than one solution have them check with you before going forward (what they think would work best might not work for you).. You don't want them to say, "well that's what I thought you would want...." How will they get in and out if you are not home (I have a lock box - provided by the contractor - on one of the doors with a key in it - the lock was provided by the contractor (for a new door) and he will replace the lock when he is done)? How do they feel about you providing your own fixtures, etc. (my contractor has no problem with me doing this as long as I get things here when he needs them and I make sure to order what he needs (I check with him before ordering))? I am sure I have missed some things. Good luck!...See MoreDid you purchase materials or did the contractor?
Comments (11)We GC'd the renovation ourselves. I worked with each sub to determine who would purchase materials. For the larger jobs like drywall and roofing, I let the sub supply everything. Most everything else I purchased myself using contractor supply sources, the internet, and my sub's own supply houses. Many of the subs, such as the electrician and plumber, let me purchase thru their supplier without marking up. I would go choose and pick up the materials, and then pay the supply houses directly, meaning I'd take care of all transportation and taxes. This saved the subs a lot of time schlepping around town. We have a contractor furnishing mart in Seattle where I could purchase tile, carpeting, flooring, and quartz countertops at wholesale prices. I worked with my tile guy to deterimine exactly how much of each tile I'd need, even the amount of grout. He supplied the backer boards and other construction materials. For doors, interior trim, wood (finishing and studs), door hardware and hinges I had another supplier that gave me a contractor/industry discount. I worked with my carpenter to determine how much of each I'd need. For finishing the doors, I went to a commercial finish/paint house. Because I was able to bring in more than 10 doors at one time, they gave me the commercial rate, which was $75 a door for 2 coats of lacquer, vs $150 a door. Cabinets I got at contractor prices directly from the manufacturer. Sinks and faucets I got online at Homeclick, taking advantage of holiday weekend sales to get upwards of 50% off on high end stuff, such as Grohe and Franke. I compared priced to my plumber's supply house at his contractor prices, and I was still saving money by buying online. Appliances...I had 3 companies bidding against each other for entire packages. The high end stuff such as the Wolf rangetopo came in at one price set by the regional distributor, no bargaining on that. But we got other things like the LG frige and Asko dishwasher where they could give me a discount. Just to show you how much markup can be...my entryway chandelier was $750 retail, $500 was the cheapest I could find online, and $250 thru my electrician. Pricing is difficult and time-consuming. If you have the time and inclination, discuss with your GC where you might be able to save some money and purchase yourself. Ask him if he'll forgo his markup if you do the legwork and transportation, so all he has to do is come to work and everything is there ready to go. Some guys will, others won't. But it never hurts to ask....See MoreCan a contractor charge a processing fee?
Comments (14)So by way of follow up all these months later - I never used that bad general contractor again but it took weeks to hire a replacement for the exterior work then forever to get him in. Luckily I had my own electrician and flooring person fix his work in the interim and my time/materials contractor install the final kitchen a month later as planned, and worked with a designer to make it work wonderfully (plus a lot of my own time and effort). The exterior work (window/door conversion) took another 6-8 weeks and wasn’t done until 2 months ago, and while we didn’t save money on the replacement person, we didn’t spend more on them for the same things either. With the money I spent to fix the bad GC’s work, I was probably out a few grand (sad to say) and my designer figured he was going to leave me in the lurch either way either when he did or toward the end - her theory was that he would leave me in the lurch the moment he was a few grand ahead and could safely run and pull out his profit, so she said NEVER to let him get ahead of me in terms of my paying a moment ahead of work (live and learn). The only thing that galls me is a deposit he never returned, so I’m planning on emailing him with a demand for it back. The demand is drafted, the architect who referred him expects it ��" but I can’t seem to push the button on the email because it will be so unpleasant when I do (he'll refuse to give it back, he'll ignore the email, I doubt he'll actually pony up a penny). The architect who referred him to me has very clear backup for what was wrong and knows it wasn’t acceptable. I’ve left it to him whether to refer the jerk to anyone else. My designer thinks I should just walk away from the lost deposit and figure it was a bump-up in price for the job. Other bids from (now I know) better contractors were well more than the cash I left him with. So while I lost money and a decent amount of security (for example, for the first time in 7 years we now had a mouse on our parlor floor, I figure from something not well sealed behind the scenes by the GC, but who knows; plus I'm concerned because the plumbing he did was so bad that I worry a lot about water issues coming up especially ones I don't know about). But what an education. By the way, as it turns out the bad GC's electrician left a ton undone and done improperly so I had my own electrician fix that. The plumber who installed the final kitchen pointed out that the GC's plumbing work was shoddy (range's turnoff valve installed at the wrong end of the wall/range connection; bad height of the plumbing for the range etc.); the carpenter showed me a screw sticking down out of a railing the GC's guy installed, about an inch down where someone grabbing it from below could have torn their hand badly (that one galls me the most, and I don't think that was intentional; the GC's guy wasn't that good and the GC never bothered to come check his work... poor hiring and poor supervision were the culprits there). So beware! I love my new kitchen and deck but who knows what issues lurk behind... not electrical and unlikely structural since I had an architect involved, but more plumbing,,, and some functional like a bad washer/dryer layout because of his poor choices and advice to me on the fly (and I wish I'd had my designer and not the architect for a lot of these decisions, the right advice is so key)....See MoreBuilder upgrades vs Future upgrades - Structural Only
Comments (38)Standard doors are 6" - are you suggesting not to upgrade to 8" ? We felt higher the door height, the easier it is to move furniture and stuff, of-course the width of the door isn't changing. I wouldn't bother with this. How often do you move "furniture and stuff" that's taller than 7'? Extended Lanai: Oh, I thought it'd be a deeper lanai ... I'd be less inclined to pay for a wider lanai. Wider isn't all that useful, and it means more rooms are shaded /have less natural light. Vent Hood/Microwave to Outside - If we don't choose, the smoke will stay indoors - the builder should have included this in the base price but it is what it is. I am really surprised that this isn't standard. I would do the oak riser steps instead of carpet. Yes overpriced but probably better now. Yes, if you don't do the oak risers now, you probably won't be able to do them later ... at all. If they do carpet stairs, they're going to use plywood /paint quality stuff under that carpet; thus, it won't be a matter of pulling up carpet later and staining /painting. It is easy to say walk away and build a custom home, but not everyone can afford to do that, nor does everyone want to go that route (even if they can afford to). True. Tara we all have to make compromises. For ourselves it's been a 2 year journey building our custom home, plus the hours and hours spent researching and finding even the smallest details. So I understand where you're coming from. Yup, no matter your circumstances, you're going to "give" somewhere. For us, we're taking the same route as CP describes above: The place where we're "giving" is time and personal effort....See MoreRelated Professionals
Corcoran Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Baltimore Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Hershey Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · New Castle Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Ocala Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Sun Valley Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Arlington General Contractors · Asheboro General Contractors · Casas Adobes General Contractors · Claremont General Contractors · Jackson General Contractors · Martinsville General Contractors · Muskogee General Contractors · Walnut Park General Contractors · Williamstown General Contractors- 9 years ago
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