1. Having my neighborhood go up in flames 2. Having my neighborhood washed away in a flood 3. Having my neighborhood be swallowed up in the next quake, #1 No fires if you stay away from the hill's where there are lots of old dead tree's #2 Floods - Just stay away from those few areas #3 Will yea Earth Quakes are defiantly scary! Can't do much about that. I would recommend a one story ground level house. As you can see I have a two story Cape Cod style home. I'm always worried we will get shook off our foundation. Earthquake insurance it is too expensive with huge deductibles! Everything does grow good here though. Weather is nice most the year. LetÂs see sod laying tips. When I lay sod I straighten the sod edges and corners as I go and make sure no grass gets stuck between the sod edges. This will avoid dead grass and brown and yellow stripes between the sod pieces that can make fungus and just makes for a bad start. I spray the ground with water and put down a little fertilizer as I lay the sod. I always use my square so I get nice square edges when I cut sod. Sometimes I donÂt even till the ground. Sod will live on the patio if you water it. I do it all the time. DonÂt over water your new lawn. Get out there and lift up the sod and see how wet it is. If you over water your new lawn you will get chlorosis and fungus like I have now from too much rain. If I need to replace a small spot I use a plate or bucket for a stencil and cut out the bad piece. Then I use the plate or bucket to cut a new piece of sod from extra sod that I keep on the patio or garden. If you are going to put in French drains or remove and replace tree's itÂs better to do it first. I did it all backwards. I have a spot were an old tree and its roots were removed and it keeps sinking along with the trenches were I put the drains. If you put drains. It is good to attach your rain gutter down spouts to them. Also if you dig your ditch for your sprinklers try to keep the top soil separate from any clay soil that may be down lower and put the soil back in the whole the same way you took it out. The grass grows better on the top soil than the clay. ThatÂs about all I can think of for now other than I like Blue Grass because it self fills. But. If you have shade you will need to over seed now and then were it thins out. I left a link below to other garden pics. I like to grow fruit trees as well. I get all my info for the roses and fruit tree's here on GardenWeb. Take care Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Pics

Blue, not until you said no. I'd like to visit it and really look around the arboretum but the last two times I spent too long in their plant center (incidentally where I bought the GS). I'm ridiculously confused by the pines I see roadside as I drive my lorry up and down the country. I seem to see varieties of possible p.sylvestris in colours from aqua blue to dark green and forms from very regular 'fingered' (generally the bluishish/greeny greyish) to the classic bare trunked with upward clusters - also massive fully branched specimens. Does p.s come in such variety or am I seeing entirely different trees?

You can buy iron in a bag at a plant store or as a liquid, but if the soil is not acid enough iron won't help. If you ph is above 7 you need to take the ph down to 6.5 or lower. If you drink coffee just add unused coffee to mixed with water or add some white vinegar to the water you use to water. Peat can create a more acid soil, if you mix an acid loving plant mix or peat into the soil. Once the ph is at a good level, then the plants can actually uptake the iron. I forgot to mention sometimes yellow leaves are the sign of over watering in which you may not be over watering, but have poor drainage. They don't sell Killex. I only use round up which has to hit the plant to create a kill, but I don't know about Killex. It is possible that it leaked from the soil into the rose? There are too many possibilities. I might dig it up and put it in a pot, if I really cared about it and I could not get a replacement. That would solve the ph problem or the weed killer problem. Use a rose potting mix and it should be already and later you can replant it.

The first suspect would be the contrast in light levels between where it was sited outdoors and what new light levels are indoors. A plant's ability to adjust to changes in light levels is not unlimited. Something I wrote about a plant's ability to adjust to changes in photo loads: Light Acclimatization The degree to which a leaf can 'acclimate' to changes in photo load is limited. IOW, you can't expect a leaf that emerged under a full sun light load to acclimate to light levels in a dim corner, any more than you can expect a leaf that emerged in a dim corner to acclimate to a full sun site; this, no matter how long you allow for gradual acclimation. Too, the plant's ability to adapt to higher light loads is greater than its ability to adapt to lesser light loads. Using a 1-10 numerical example to illustrate (numerical value of 1 is low light, 10 is high light): If a leaf emerges where the light level is measured at 5 units, it's range of adjustment might only be to 3.5 on the low side, but 8 to 8.5 on the high side. When the level of adjustment required is greater than what the plant is genetically programmed to deal with, the leaf is shed, and this can occur with conspicuous or relatively inconspicuous damage to the leaf. While shed leaves can never be replaced, per se, new branches can form (with new leaves along the new branches) in the axils of dying leaves or from latent buds immediately above scars left by shed leaves. Too, whenever a new leaf appears it will be perfectly acclimated to whatever the photo load is where the plant is positioned (within the limits of what it is genetically programmed to tolerate). The regulating mechanism that determines whether leaves are able to adapt or destined to be shed centers on the flow of a growth regulator, auxin, across what is called the abscission done, located at the base of the leaf petiole (stem) where the leaf is attached to a branch. Steep declines in the rate of auxin flow causes an abscission layer to form, which effectively forms a wall between the dead/ dying leaf and viable plant parts, soon after which the leaf separates from the rest of the plant. Al