Yes, I did dig around and look for any green, and I removed the mulch earlier this spring. According to what I've read, this particular cultivar (a new introduction) is hardy to zone 7, and has survived 0 degree temps. As I said, I am arguably zone 7 and my minimum temps this year were consistent with zone 8a. Anyway, I thought it was reasonable to hope that one or more might overwinter. I'm hoping someone in a zone where they do come back to let me know exactly how late is late? I read somewhere that someone had them come back as late as June. I just would like to know what is typical. The empty spots are bugging me, but I don't want to give up on the lantana just before the miracle happens, either! Thanks for your help, Lisa

Mine are going crazy with blooms right now, and we've been harvesting for a little over a week. So far the harvest hasn't been huge, but it has been steady. They seemed to stall on those days our high temps were in the 93-98 degree range, but now that it is a little cooler here, they are a little happier and putting out new growth and tons of blooms. I think the rain we got, which only was a half-inch, pleased them greatly. I'm hoping this week's cold front makes them even more happy. At least our sugar snap peas aren't being hailed upon, flooded or being hit by tornadoes. As long as they are still alive and rain is falling, I think they'll keep producing for a while. The wind today did beat the crap out of them. Kim, I always freeze some, but only about 1 year out of 3 do I put tons and tons of them in the freezer. Tim was out of town on business most of last week, so I didn't even pick them and take them into the house. I just picked them and munched on them while working in the garden---instant, garden-fresh fast food. In the fall, you'll probably need row cover to keep them happy long enough to produce. While they tolerate very cold temperatures, if the cold temps hit while they are blooming or about to bloom, those cold temperatures can knock the blooms right off the plants. I don't cover them up at night unless we're expecting temperatures below the mid-20s. Sometimes we get a night or two like that in late Sept or early Oct, but it is more common to get them in November. If you want to grow a variety that doesn't need to be trellised, I grew Cascadia two years ago and Sugar Lace last year, and both of them produced tons and tons of peas----more than my Super Sugar Snaps or Sugar Snaps growing on trellises were able to produce. Because we've already had high temps here hit 98 degrees a couple of times and 93-95 more often than I can believe for May, I am worrying that the green beans won't begin blooming early enough to avoid heat-related blossom drop. Instead of succession sowing some more green beans, I'm going to plant an enormous number of southern peas instead because the heat can't stop them from producing. My mind has moved beyond the warm-season crops to the hot-season crops because it seems like we have gone from the cool season to the hot season in a very brief period of time. My short day onions are bulbing up. It always happens at this time of the year, and it always catches me by surprise. I have to count backwards from now to the time I planted them, realize it is time for them to start bulbing up and say "okay, this is normal". All the cool-season plants I planted are doing better than the sugar snap peas, but that is not unusual. They are the most finicky when it comes to having 32 degree temperatures one morning and then 98 degree temperatures a day or two later. They don't like those crazy temperature swings. I get the best sugar snap pea harvest when we consistently stay cool and moist. This year cannot, by any stretch of the imagination, be described as cool and moist---hence the sugar snap pea behavior.

The soils of California are known for being alkaline because the low rainfall does not wash the salts that tend t9o cause that out of the soil, so many nutrients may be in the soil but not available to the plants because of that. Organic matter in the soil can help as can adding something, such as sulfur, to increase the free hydrogen ions that will lower that soil pH. However, do not add things like sulfur without that good reliable soil test to guide you in how much is needed. Perhaps these simple soil tests will be of some help as well. Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

Yes, do cut off the dead stems - they aren't helping the plant at all and they are a major distraction for you every tie you look at it. I don't have this Calathea but the ones I do have are often so ugly in winter (I move them outdoors for summer) that I cut all the leaves off and let them sprout new ones. I barely water them with the leaves off so the roots/tubers don't rot. Here are 3 photos of one of my oldest Calathea (at least 18 years old in the same pot and same soil other than topping off) this winter. I normally don't take photos of bare pots and growing tips (kind of boring and ugly) but for documentation purposes only. Jan 29 Feb 27 Mar 9 end of August last year Don't give up on it. Do cut back on watering until it starts responding in a positive manner. Give it some light (I put mine under T8 lights for 12 hours a day in winter).