Here are a few pics. This is the left side of the sink where I think it's supposed to be flush next to the cabinet. The cut has a bit of a curve to it, too.

Back up and take a better picture. We can't see what is being shown here, and there is no scale. Take one from 5 feet, 3 feet, then 1 foot. Show the whole installation in the 5 foot one, and put something like a quarter in the 1 foot one to show scale.

From what I can actually make out, it looks like maybe the sink itself has a bkt of a warp to it and he cut the opening straight rather than scribing it exactly. But, better pictures are needed.

Mine had exactly what you show. I'm not able to upload pictures now, but my GC added a kind of plastic frame around the face of the sink that covered it up. My sink and cabs are white, though. I'm not sure if that would be a good fix for you. But my GC told me gaps like that are normal.

Ours had a gap on the bottom edge (after reconfiguring the cabinet because the sink wasn't sitting out enough) so our GC added the molding he is holding in this pic. The cabinet maker painted it to match and it is only visable when sitting on floor. We had numerous GC issues so I let is go. However is was easy to color match the painted cabinets and it is underneath.

Is that a stainless sink? If so, some judicious bending of the metal would address the fault. The sink could have gotten bent by shipping or mishandling, so it can be re-bent, if the cut in the wood was made with a straightedge.

You have to scribe the wood to the fireclay sinks, because their contours are immutable. With metal there can be adjustments made, shall we say.

Casey

Tap some shims on the tight side to make each gap 1/16" and apply dark silicone. You'll never see this in a few weeks.