"As I understand it, there is to be a 1/4" nailing strip installed on each side, for a total of 1/2" for each dimension, which is why the rough dimension is quoted as 1/2" larger." That is not the reason for the rough opening being 1/2" larger. You need to look at a window. The nailing strip is actually a 1 1/2" +/- flange that overlaps the rough opening and is nailed to the sheathing so the gap between the window frame and the framing does not have to be exact or perfect. The framer will treat the specified R.O. as a minimum and try to make it as square and level as possible. A slightly larger opening is not a problem. You only need to tell the framer the R.O.'s and the only reason to modify them is if you wanted to use a sill pan or another kind of sill flashing that required more space. A long span over a set of windows might require a larger gap at the head for future deflection. Adding to the specified manufacturers R.O.'s can result in redundant increases in the final opening size so such increases are better shown in a note in the window schedule with an asterisk at the R.O. for the appropriate window. Many designers have gotten into the habit of showing a frame size on the elevation drawings. That is OK for vinyl and fiberglass windows and perhaps clad wood casements and awning windows but for many double-hung windows the frame size is not an even dimension (windows sizes are a function of standard glass sizes) and varies a lot between manufacturers. The solution is to pick a manufacturer and put everything into a window schedule. If the manufacturer is changed all of the R.O.'s will have to be changed.

If you do try curtains, use curtain rings. If you use the rod pocket to hang the curtains, it is somewhat difficult to slide the curtains back and forth. The few times I've seen this, the curtains mostly stay open all the time. But if you use rings, the curtains will slide back and forth easily. You can whisk the curtains apart, and then close them with a sweep of your hand. If you'd rather have doors, why not get a handyman to give you an estimate of how expensive it would be to alter pre-fab doors to fit your closet? It sounds like the only thing keeping you from doors is the extra work involved. If you really want doors and don't want to do the work, it might be worth paying someone to do it for you.

We prefer the bifolds a LOT. We do not put the bifold on a track at the top, so we can swing it out of the way. To keep it from going into the closet, or pantry, there is a stop only at the top, The bottom of the bifold swings freely, and I do not have to worry about hurting my feet on any track, or getting dirt out of the track either. We are also going to use these bifolds on our master closet. With french door style, 10 lights per panel. We are putting clerestory windows inside our walk in closet, going into a room bumpout which will lead to removal of a pair of windows and the loss of that light source. So we will still have the light, still have the wide closet opening, and we will have privacy as well with no curtains. The bifold french style is sold by Home Depot. Check the brand Pinecroft, which they generally do not stock but do order for you. Plus, you can always mount the doors with separate hinges on either side of a doorway, making them look like a real pair of french doors. I've done that before. Looked nice.

You will want three 32” or 34” doors (96” is an awkward width for the standard door sizes - is it already trimmed out?). 2 on one track (probably front), and one on the other (probably back). Just buy 3 slab doors in the style you want and get the track hardware kit ar Home Depot. Build.com has nice shaker doors.