Black rot on grapes, please help
summersrhythm_z6a
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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tigrikt (Central NJ/6b)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agosummersrhythm_z6a thanked tigrikt (Central NJ/6b)Related Discussions
Grapes Rotting
Comments (4)Black rot. The controls must be correctly timed. Two sprays of mancozeb (new growth and pre-bloom) followed by two sprays of myclobutinal (post-bloom and pea sized). The first (new growth) spray is not as important as the next three, which are absolutely critical. But if you can get the first spray in, it would help. The reason for the program is that while mancozeb will completely control black rot by itself, it can only be applied up to 66 days before harvesting, Depending on the variety, you may be bumping up against that limit by the time of those third or fourth sprays. Hence the switchover. This post was edited by nickl on Tue, Jul 30, 13 at 0:30...See MoreGrape Rot Nightmare
Comments (5)You only need to spray once in my experience to control bunch rot or whatever rot we tend to get here on grapes in the northeast (not an important crop to me although managing them is a small part of my job). I don't think it will work for tomatoes- chlorathalinal is the stuff for them although it is considered a more dangerous compound. Montery Fungus Fighter is better than myclobutanil for brown rot on peaches- I forget the actual name of the compound that's in it- same stuff as Orbit. Chlorathalinal is good for peach scab. For peaches I'd recommend a chlor spray about 6 weeks before expected harvest and then MFF 2 weeks later if the label lets you use chlor that close to harvest....See MoreBlack Rot solutions
Comments (8)It's quite humid here. Maybe not so much as - say - Iowa, NYC, or Florida but it's been kinda humid in the mornings - misty. On the other hand it mightnotbe black rot but that is sure what it looks like from looking through pix of grape diseases. Thanks you guys and thanks for the link to the info on the disease. I didn't know about it at the time of blossom set so I didn't spray until it became apparanteafter friotset. The fruit looks ok. -ellie...See MoreRoot rot?? Help please!
Comments (3)If rot, stem is usually quite soft. I can't tell from pic if yes or no. If stems are rotting, plants are usually beheaded. One of the plants in pic 2 is etiolating; but maybe even top right plant is starting to (again, just looking at the photo). I keep succulents in lots of sun, but let rootless ones to establish before putting into good sun. BTW, I am surprised that you consider 20*C 'fairly warm' - I am also in Canada, in colder zone than yours, and temps have been lately in thirties...right now is 32*C (still raising); yesterday high was 35*C, same past few days. Rest of the week is expected same. And humidex values are in very high 30-ties and up to 45*C... I would consider 20*C more than comfortable; and if plants have started to grow roots, keep them in at least morning sun....See Moresummersrhythm_z6a
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agosummersrhythm_z6a
8 years agotigrikt (Central NJ/6b)
8 years agosummersrhythm_z6a
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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