Weebus "reference link for proper credit" Botrytis blight or gray mold is a fungus disease which infects a wide array of herbaceous annual and perennial plants. There are several species of the fungus Botrytis which can cause blights; the most common is Botrytis cinerea. Botrytis infections are favored by cool, rainy spring and summer weather usually around 15C (60F). Gray mold can be particularly damaging when rainy, drizzly weather continues over several days. Although IÂm sure you have this memorized but these conditions above do not exist in the houses. We use Netefim auto-drip system to control watering. The surface stays dry and so does the foliage. But I'm sure your aware of that. The greenhouse company in your example didn't design the system. Quote "mainly because the larger ones I had ordered wouldn't fit without cutting into the greenhouse frame." Cactus ordered the fans not the company. You know as well as I do airflow is a simple calculation of g/h cubic feet to the amount of airflow required. Big or small fans. Doesn't matter as long as the proper airflow is achieved. Sorry to many wholes in your argument. And IÂll trust a g/h engineer any day. Hey you never did comment on most grow on temps are between 55 and 70? Chris, What's the lowest temp you ever recorder? What about days when you have overcast skies for days on end. I can't see the temp hitting 90 in those conditions. Maybe 70 but does that store enough heat? What's the percentage of floor space is used for storing water compared to plant space? Just curious. Here is a link that might be useful: Botrytis

Which way is most efficient depends a little on the house design. If the ductwork for the upstairs is in a vented attic and the downstairs is in a more controlled space (like a basement), then what you have is the most efficient setup. I basically intentionally do what you are doing because my downstairs unit is more efficient and the ducts are all in conditioned space. The upstairs winds up being cooler than downstairs which works well because we like to sleep in the cold. It is generally more efficient to run a furnace for longer periods of time so I wouldn't worry much about that. But if you are using a heatpump and this setup pushes you into backup electric strips, you're killing your efficiency. So the details of your systems is important.

Wow! if ratepayers in my area could chose utiity providers they would leave the big providers and go with the co-op. until recently I never realized other areas offered this option. I'd better revise my captive rate payers statements! keep in mind that free audits and reduced walk thru audits focus on what is refered to as low hanging fruit. to get more than generalized information, you should consider an independent professional. hearing/reading stories of these less than helpful audits is commonplace in the past year. resnet.us is a place to start. you'll want someone experienced in existing homes, and that will include duct testing & recommendations of how to seal leakage areas. referals to companies they work sucessfully with is always a plus. best of luck.

The short story is we chose radiant because it worked the best with the floorplan / material choices we made. The long story is how we got there. We had the choice of a basement, crawl space, or slab. Basements are common in my area because of the required 3' footers - it doesn't cost much to go deeper and have a basement. Financially they make sense, but I don't care for them. They are cold, dark, and low ceilings feel oppressive. Crawl spaces are nice to allow access, but the floors were crazy cold in winter and the amount of humidity could also turn into a mold problem. We chose a slab foundation before we had land, and it worked out since the land we built on would not have supported a basement. Our slab has xps foam board under and along the edges for insulation. Our floor plan is completely custom that I did in autocad myself. All the common areas are on the south side and open. The bedrooms and bathrooms are on the north side. With an open floor plan (some of it 17' tall rooms) and concrete floors it makes forced air ducting more difficult. My experience with forced air is that it blows dust and curtains, feels like a cold draft across your neck when it first kicks on and forces the cold air out before the heated air, and is noisy enough to have to raise the TV or conversation volume when its on. Choosing radiant floor heat with separate zones for the common and private areas seemed like the perfect choice for heating. But we do use our air conditioner for 6-8 weeks and the floorplan layout was critical in being able to use a wall unit to comfortably cool the whole house. I was planning on finishing the concrete with coloring and waxing of some kind, but my husband became friends with a person who polishes commercial concrete floors and we had him polish our floors. It looks wonderful, and is easy to clean. The radiant heat is quiet and even heating with about a 2 hour lag time. I also thought it would be warm on my toes, but I learned that it's not - even in the middle of winter, and want to make sure others are aware of that so they are not disappointed. It's not cold, but its not warm either. Our upstairs is a quality pad and carpeted which feels nicer to my bare feet than the cool concrete. Each house and owner is different so I hope you find the best solution for your situation.