@T Burns I don't have an ATMOX system, but from what I've seen they have one inside and one outside sensor input on their controls. One outdoor should be sufficient, but for a large crawlspace I'd prefer more than one just because humidity CAN be localized if there is bulk water such as a flood or plumbing leak. My home had mold and rot only in certain areas--generally the east (downwind) side. The ATMOX optional louvers don't appear air-tight but passively flap down over the opening when the fan isn't running, like on a dryer vent. It's probably no worse than a typical sliding crawlspace vent. Plotting temp and RH over time is a great idea. From there you can obtain dew point and get an idea how often an ATMOX system would be able to run with just fans to keep the RH below 60%. With tight clearance between floor framing and the ground, the joists will track ground temperature by radiant heat exchange unless you have lots of airflow. You can get an idea of what RH will be at the joist surfaces by looking at those temperatures and figure out what max average dew point should be allowed. From there you can look at historical dew points for your area and get an idea of what percentage of the time fans can actually dry the crawlspace. As the ATMOX folks point out in their literature, it takes an extended problem to elevate wood moisture content enough to cause mold. You may be able to get by with a dehumidifier for half the year or less. But I would definitely not install one of these systems without a dehumidifier as backup, integrated into the control logic. If nothing else, it will come in handy if you get a flood or a fan goes bad and you need brute force drying. There might be some aspects of encapsulation that could benefit your situation, but I'm leery about arbitrarily introducing spray foam, foam board, or plastic-wrapped batts, like the Youtube encapsulation guys do, without really thinking through the moisture transport situation. You could easily end up trapping moisture or hiding rot or termite activity in an old house that wasn't built to modern codes. For example, my home has poly flashing between the rim & band joists and the brick, lacks a brick ledge, and was not built with pressure treated sills. If the brick really gets soaked, the framing gets damp. This is a once-a-year event at most, but it has a way to dry. The last thing I'd want to do is to trap moisture in the lumber. Also, my home's crawlspace vents also admit air to the gap between the brick and sheathing, and blocking those gaps with foam board will reduce ventilation behind the brick. Retrofitting an older home has to be taken case-by-case. I wouldn't trust most one-size-fits-all encapsulation contractors to consider that. I would probably never be totally satisfied with an ATMOX system, since the control logic isn't arbitrarily customizable, but it's an incremental improvement over full-time passive ventilation that we know doesn't work in summer. Automating the ventilation and combining occasional dehumidifier use may be all you need to banish the mold if there are no drainage issues. Thanks for the tip about the upcoming revision. I'll have to get in touch with them to see if they're adding fan diagnostics.

Also, depending on where in the Bay Area you are (hello East Bay!), your wastewater *does* sometimes go directly into the Bay without treatment when it rains and the wastewater facilities overflow (not that we've had this problem in recent months!) This is one reason the EPA sued the East Bay municipalities a few years back; the settlement of that suit is the reason you now have to replace sewer laterals whenever a home in the area is sold. The utility companies are slowly replacing the century-old combined city sewers, but until that's complete and all of the sewer laterals are in compliance, we'll continue to have the challenge of overflow going untreated into the Bay and other water bodies in heavy rains. Not sure how many other Bay Area communities are in similar situations, but I know San Francisco has a huge sewer repair and replacement program underway for the same reason. Anyway, now that this schpiel is done... ;) We have a three-year-old Miele (bought on closeout right before they switched to their current line) that we've been pretty happy with (caveat: we didn't have a dishwasher before then, so have little basis for comparison!) We ordered it from Universal Appliance and Kitchen Center in Los Angeles--it was the only major purchase we made out of the area, but they had the discontinued model on clearance so it was a $300-$400 cost difference. We use Ecover dishwasher tabs and have been happy with those. Mixed results with Trader Joe's; I also like the Ecover powder but had problems with overfilling, etc. and just decided that the tabs were a better plan overall. I don't think we've tried Seventh Generation, so that might be fine too. Haven't tried the Miele detergent either so I don't know if it's a lot better, but Ecover seems fine to us. Have never had to service it, but I did ask around before we decided to get one and there are several shops in the Oakland/Berkeley area that service them--I imagine this is also the case in other parts of the region. We opted to install it ourselves and purchased it on a credit card that doubled the warranty, as opposed to having Miele install it, which automatically extends your warranty. Figured that if we did need it serviced, that might simplify things. The install was impressively simple. The other big plus to it was that our city waived the California air gap requirement for it because the manual included documentation of how the dishwasher addresses this internally. We didn't see a significant change in our water or electric bills post-remodel, which I took as a good sign since we added both the dishwasher and a range hood. It's pretty quiet (again, no basis for comparison, but we have a small house and when it's running it's barely audible in the adjoining rooms except if water is running into it). We put absolutely everything in and mostly just run it on the normal setting, and it does a pretty solid job most of the time. I do use the pots and pans setting for really caked on stuff, and even then it can't always tackle pots that have been sitting for a while--but that seems reasonable! HTH!

Yes, Sophie, that's very helpful! So I am calling it a sill but it's actually the stool; and the wood one that was removed is notched just like in the above diagram with an apron below. So it is the stool I want made of granite but I need a way to attach it without needing and apron. My DH said maybe the idea of the fabricator drilling countersunk holes in the back may work (thanks, Mama goose_gw) if he can then attach pins to the sill from underneath to slide and glue the granite on to. We would probably still use a bullnose tile underneath the granite for some extra support. Unless someone else has another idea?

Wow, Mary, I'm so sorry that happened to you! I think I read about your problems over on the manufactured homes forum, or was that someone else? My ex and I bought a stick built house in 1988 in Sacramento. A home inspection was, of course, required. A couple of weeks after we moved in, I happened to be in the backyard while hubby was showering. I looked over and saw water just gushing from the window sill and coming down the exterior of the house like a waterfall. It cost a little over $10,000 to fix, and was only that little because our new neighbor loved fixing things and had every power tool known to humankind, lol. It took a month of weekends for hubby and neighbor to fix it. We sued the home inspector and recouped all our costs plus punitive damages, which we split with neighbor guy. Good thing ex is an attorney! :-) Thanks for the advice, Chris. It looks like ~$300 is the going price, and in the grand scheme of things, I think it's worth it if, as Steph recommends, I find someone with experience in manufactured homes. In this case, the inspector doesn't have to please any realtors, sellers, or buyers. Since I've already bought the house, lived in it as a houseguest with my friends for the entire month of September, and know everything my friends know about the house, I can be very specific about what I want her to look for. As Chris said, it will be helpful for prioritizing. I'm hoping to refurbish the entire house top to bottom. I have an eight to ten year plan. I love a good ten year project! I started going back to college in 2007 and hope to graduate with my PhD in 2017--a ten year project, haha! (I'll have had 13 years of higher education! You'd think I'd know something by now, haha!) I have a list of what I think are priorities, and rough estimates of what everything will cost. My first project, next September, will be an asphalt driveway and carport. Because of my mobility disability and the necessity of using a walker, and because I can't get soaking wet entering/exiting my home and car, a dry, smooth surface and dry carport is a necessity before next winter. I'm going to replace all the electrical wiring and plumbing regardless of current condition, only because they're original to the house and will need upgrading at some point anyway. I'm also redoing all the floors because they're hideous, lol, so while I'm at it, I'll do all new floor insulation. There are no leaks, and I had the roof snow coated in October, which is guaranteed for ten years. So a new roof is down lower on the priority list, but still in the ten year plan. I'll blow insulation into the "attic" when I do the roof. The siding and skirting are much newer than the house and are in beautiful condition, so replacing them would be almost last on the list. The gut remodel of the kitchen/living room, major remodel of both bathrooms, and closet systems and cosmetic touch ups of the bedrooms will be in the middle, somewhere after electrical, plumbing, and floors, but before roof and siding. It's a ten year project because I'm paying as I go, in cash, as money becomes available. That's MY plan. I want the home inspector to tell me if my priorities are right or if I need to do something sooner rather than later. The yard will be an ongoing project. I've figured out how to do an aesthetically pleasing yard using various kinds of rocks, drought resistant plants, and ornamental grasses, for very, very little money and very low maintenance.