peaches turning brown

rober49

8 years ago

a lot of my peaches ( 5 trees worth ) are turning brown & falling off. what might be the cause?

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Comments (7)

fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX
8 years ago
Possibly bacterial spot.
rober49
Original Author
8 years ago
after searching bacterial spot I contacted the Missouri state extension office. apparently with the super wet spring we had here there's a lot of brown rot going around. I'm sending them a sample for diagnosis. it's looking like a total loss crop-wise. they recommended marking & pruning any dead branches after the trees go dormant. I did not think to ask about what to do with the fruit. hopefully this will not overwinter. last year a late frost wiped out all but 6 peaches.
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That could be drought stress or fertilizer burn. skuiiy: We bought the plant with the shown plastic pot and kept it in there since it seemed to be doing well & producing flowers and fruit. A plant from the nursery producing fruit is often doing so because it's stressed. When tomatoes are stressed, they fruit because the plant rushes to reproduce before it dies. So assuming it's happy because it's fruiting could be incorrect. Even if the pot is OK now, it won't be much longer unless that plant is a dwarf or small determinate. skuiiy: -Gave it liquid fertilizer. -Added about a spoonful of epsom salt to the soil/mulch mix it's in and mixed it in a bit. Epsom salt is really only necessary if the plant has a magnesium deficiency. If not, it could cause problems. Also, it's possible you've given the plant too much fertilizer, which can manifest as leaf burn skuiiy: now I'm watering(about 2 cups of tap water, instead of just 1)every other day starting today to see how that goes. First: Pot it in a much larger container. Gently knock off as much of the current potting mix as possible so that almost all of the mix is fresh, as this will help correct the problem if nitrogen burn is the problem. Use a normal, fluffy, well-draining potting mix, not a mix advertised as moisture-retaining, and not anything labeled as "garden soil". Mix water into the mix well before putting it in the pot, as peat-based mixes can initially repel water if they're dry. Second: Don't measure your water or water on a set schedule. To determine when to water, stick your finger down into the mix a couple inches. If it's dry, water and water very deeply, until the water is running freely out of the bottom of the pot. If it's still wet a couple inches down under the surface, hold off. In your climate, when it gets hot, don't be surprised if you have to water daily. As for fertilizer, you can give the plant a dose according to instructions once a week or every two weeks (depends on how frequently you have to water), or you can water at very dilute strength with every watering (dilute more the more frequently you have to water).
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jean001a
8 years ago
Brown rot.
rober49
Original Author
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
is the fallen fruit contagious, as in will it contribute to spreading the rot next year?
gardener365
8 years ago
Here's some info from my book of diagnosis and solution:

Cause: "Brown rot of peaches is caused by two similar fungi. Spores overwinter on infected twigs or on fruits that have hung on the tree all winter or have fallen to the ground. In spring, spores are carried by wind and splashing water to blossoms. Dead blossoms and leaves cling to the tree all season. Fruits may decay on the tree or after harvest. Cherries, plums, and quinces can also carry the disease."

Solution: "Remove infected plant parts, use a fungicide, and increase air circulation.
- Prune off infected twigs and sterilize tools afterward. Remove and discard infected fruits from the tree and ground.
- When buds swell, spray organic lime-sulfur fungicide. As soon as flowers open, spray with organic sulfur fungicide, and spray with sulfur again 10 days later. Follow label directions carefully.
- Each year, thin trees while dormant to promote air circulation among the branches"
Dax
rober49
Original Author
8 years ago
I've gotten mixed advice on when to prune the infected twigs. the mo. state extension office says wait until the tree has gone dormant. another site says prune now. I'd think that the finding the infected limbs when the tree is dormant would be difficult & it would be a pain to mark them as I have 8 trees. i'll also have to see what impact those fungicides would have on honey bees. i'll write off the trees before I give up my hives. 2 years ago the almond growers in ca. sprayed fungicides while beekeepers had hives there for pollination. the fungicide label said it was safe for bees. while it did not kill the bees outright what was carried to the hives killed off the brood ( eggs & larva ) which eventually killed off or drastically weakened the hives.
gardener365
8 years ago
I've just entered a realm I know nothing about. I would in your particular case prune off the infected areas when it cools off this early to mid fall and spray the same day and return to collect any leaves, fruit, and/or branches as a second sweep after leaf fall. I'd probably spray them again before they go into winter and also with a dormant oil.

Next spring do your spraying at all times except when the trees are in flower. This seems like the only course you'd like to move forward with. That's my advice.

Dax

peaches turning brown

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fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX

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peaches turning brown

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fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX

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