Scientific name: Cytisus scoparius. Common names: Scotch broom, broomtops, common broom, European broom, Irish broom, English. Native Origin: British Isles, central and southern Europe Ecological Impacts: This aggressive, rapid spreading plant can grow 3 feet in the first year. It can form dense impenetrable stands that degrade rangeland, prevent forest regeneration, and create fire hazards. It invades rapidly following logging, land clearing, and burning. It can form pure dense stands for miles along highway and country roads to crowd out native species and destroy wildlife habitat. Toxicity: Mild poisoning can occur from this shrub. Large amounts are required to cause symptoms in animals such as horses. Alkaloids have been identified as being the toxic principle. Cytisin, sparteine and isosparteine are found in the twigs, leaves and seeds in small amounts. The seeds of the plant can stay dormate for 160 years.

I'm still in the process of digging my veggie garden, but next year I should be done part of it so that I can get started growing something. My garden is a very large raised bed, which I am dividing with paths into small, 3 1/2 ft wide beds that I won't need to stand on ever. With our heavy clay soil, anything to cut down on compaction will be good for the plants. In the center of my garden I plan to have a small circular bed with some roses growing in it. I plan to plant in blocks and rows; I like vegetable gardens to be ornamental as well as practical. This style of gardening is called a potager, and is supposed to be popular in europe. As for what I intend to grow: potatoes, different varieties lettuce, spinach, corn, zucchini, yellow summer squash, carrots, peas, beans, beets, broccoli and cauliflower from seed. I will use transplants for: tomatoes, cucumbers, winter squash, peppers, eggplant and pumpkin. I would also like to try cantaloupe and watermelon transplants, though I know they'll be iffy depending on the year. Lots of freezing, lots of canning, lots of fresh eating! Before I plant all of those, we do intend to insulate and went a corner in our basement for a root cellar as well. I'll have to wait and see what plants end up being too finicky (maybe cauliflower!) and get knocked off the list.

newbiehavinfun, I have a silver maple, and although it gives great shade in summer you're right that it's very difficult to grow anything permanently under such trees. It sounds like your situation is that the roots of the trees have intertwined to such an extent that they strangle other plants. I only have one tree so it isn't quite so bad, but I've had best success with: - dry shade plants, such as hellebore - bigger container plants have a better root system to compete with the trees. Here's a hellebore at the foot of my maple. It's 5 yrs old and has done very well. These are the standard kind with greenish-white flowers. The fancier colored hybrids aren't as vigorous and I don't think they could compete. The other plant next to the hellebore is a jade plant, but I don't believe they're for zones lower than 8 or 9. The spiky foliage is bearded iris; the round-leaved trailers/groundcover are common nasturtium that disappear once the soil heats up in summer. I have three problem areas. They had plants I've tried that didn't work out for one reason or another, had to be yanked out and started over....several times now, LOL. Front yard walkway: We're on a double slope-front to back downwards, and also side to side. Great drainage but it makes the view of the house from the street quite lopsided. Trouble is, the plantings on one side grew quite a bit taller than the opposite side! I don't have a good picture of it from the street, but you can see from this front porch shot, how the right-hand side is just about twice the height of the left-hand side. When you view the house from the street, it makes the uphill side of the front look even taller compared to the lower-growing half. Moving down the hill, one portion of our side yard is exposed to our neighbor. Houses are very close here, averaging 10' apart. Their house has very few windows on our side - but of course, that was the only place my original plants didn't work out! These new tall shrubs/small trees will hopefully fill those spots in a few years: The far part of our backyard is actually quite private for a property smack in the middle of the city. It backs onto a schoolyard and is the lowest point of the lot. That means it is the furthest from my outdoor faucet and thus almost impossible to water. This area is also heavily shaded in summer by a 60' linden and 40' walnut. It's been a real struggle to find plants that will survive cold wet winters and bone-dry summers along with the shade conditions. I've gotten an oleander standard and Tecomaria capensis to survive, with a variegated euonymus and hardenbergia vine trying to get established this winter.

Mitzi Danumensis is definitely one where you can take one glance at it and tell it will not tolerate drying out for a second! Right now, it's like a hysterical woman in a detective novel holding a knife to her own throat. "I dare you to touch me, I'll drop another leaf, I'm not kidding! Stand back! Staaaaand back!" My nerves are all on edge! Can I call in sick and tell them I have to stay at home and mist my sick kid? It kind of seems ironic to me that many of the plants that won't make it to you, would really flourish in your climate if they could just magically appear there. I wish they would invent teleportation already! Mike Thanks for the advice! I don't think I've let mine dry out (which is lucky) but I just moved it under the lights a week or so ago, so maybe that will help. It grows and doesn't ever look bad, it just doesn't seem vigorous. Kind of like a student that bullies would pick on. That definitely seems indicative of a possible light issue.