Relationships affected by remodeling
beachem
8 years ago
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Lis Sowerbutts
8 years agoNothing Left to Say
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Reorg of family relationships!
Comments (26)Sovra (and Talley Sue), Your point is well taken. I would never hurt my MIL, which is why in fact I haven't ever told her of the humiliating experiences I've had with two of her sons. (They however, have no problem sharing their feelings.) We spend a lot of time with her individually, picking her up and taking her home in a town which is three hours from here; Respectfully listening, while she talks about her favorite subjects which are her grandchildren, whom we've never been allowed to have a relationship with. I remember a conversation where my SIL said to her young son in front of us, ''Be nice to them, they might give you money some day.'' Inheritance/entitlements have always been a big topic of her conversations. My dh gives his mom extra money to live on every month, which no one knows about. Knowing how I feel about weddings (from many former soul-sucking wedding experiences where I have been used/abused in the past), my MIL knew I attended this wedding out of respect for her. We have shown up for the rest of the family, who have never called us directly and ignored us when we got there (which required a six hour drive and hotel stay every time.) One brother brings a ''friend'' every time he comes, who is a little brother substitute, because he is willing to be used if he can be included. In fact, he brought him to the wedding, even though he wasn't invited! One BIL made rude fu gestures to me at their dad's funeral, because I had a light hearted moment with his daughter while trying to fix our hair. This is the same one (who needed hearing aids at the time) who ''heard'' me say I thought their uncle was ignorant when what I actually said was I thought he was elegant. I completely understand this is a reflection on who he is, and not really about me. I don't have a mean streak, but I do sometimes tell people the truth (which I don't have a need to do always, especially when it doesn't change anything.) Sometimes it's truly best to say nothing at all. Neither am I passive aggressive, which is a common trait among those I get to deal with. My SIL hadn't attended a family function for six years, and I've shown up (to be abused) far more than she has. No, I can easily say with a clear heart this isn't the case. What's funny is my family may have treated me badly at times in the past (which happens in families), but they wouldn't even consider hurting my dh. ''He's a Prince'' is what I've heard for 27 years and he is highly respected. Some people are respectful, and others just believe ''It's All About ME(Them).'' What I believe is important is to maintain a relationship with my MIL, but what's good for her fantasy of her ideal family life, isn't good for anyone else, any longer. At some point you have to Just Say No....See MoreLove/Hate Relationship with the paneling
Comments (10)Your woodstove is much newer than 1977, probably at least 7-12 years newer. (I'm irresistably tempted to gently tease you about your sense of "stepping back into a time warp" - you're here on the Old House Forum so a house built in 1977 is barely out of warranty by our standards. My own house was built many years before 1877.) I think we bought our stove in the first year the model was available and I suspect that was 1983 or possibly as late as 1985. We have another similar, but slightly newer, model with putty-colored enamel (which hasn't stood the test of hard use nearly as well as the black, unenameled orginal one). We burned the putty coloreed one for a few years but went back to the black one. It has been completely rebuilt a few times in the last 30 years! The catalytic converter ought to be replaced very few years (ours are done after about 2.5 burning seasons, but we put a lot of wood through it.) If you believe it has never been done, then I would plan on buying a new one, though keeping the old one on hand in case you have a problem with the new one sometime and want to stick something in to tide you over. Store the old very carefully as they extremely delicate. Don't do as I did once, vacuum the fly ash off, and sucked the whole thing into the vac: a $250 oops! Nowadays the cats are made in China with very mixed quality control. The cat part itself will cost $250-$350, exclusive of labor to install. We replace ours by ourselves. Does your stove have a heat shield on the back - a metal panel that stands off the main body of the stove about 1.5"? Since it's backed by a masonry wall, it may not be necessary. At any rate if had one, you'd have to take it off, and then remove the panel in the upper back to expose the cat chamber if your stove is an older model; slightly newer ones are accessed in a different way. You can find your model number on a plate on the back of the stove near the bottom (on right, I think). It's important info to know because there were slight changes to the model over time. The operating instructions are still online, I believe.(VermontCastings.com) The company has had a somewhat checkered ownership history with some periods producing less desirable work. Your stove definitely is a catalytic model because I can see the handle on the left of the stove which is what you use to change the exhaust pathway from a direct exhaust to going through the catalytic pathway after the stove has come to proper temp for lighting-off the secondary fire in the cat. If you haven't used it yet I would suggest a thorough looking-over by a competent sweep, preferably one used to or selling Vermont Castings stoves. Replace cat as recommended. Also have him look at all the weatherstripping around the doors (front, ash pan access and top load). These parts get worn out over time, and are easily replaceable. Also, be sure to double-check before burning that there is an ashpan under the stove(not just an empty slot where it lives). Open the ash door at the bottom right (having slid sheets of newsprint under the stove and floor in front of the hearth in case it is over-filled and will dump ashes around). There should be a shallow trapezoidal pan riding in the framework attached to the back of the ash door that can be lifted out and dumped when full. There is a removeable (perhaps lost) black metal cover that slides on the pan to contain the ashes and hot coals for transport to the dumping site; it's not strictly necessary, but nice. (Again a set of high-temp fire fighters' gloves - blue Fire-Dex - will help you here.) Now, just in case you are not experienced wood burners, I need to emphasize this CRITICAL point. Do not dump the ashes in anything except a metal, closeable trash can that is set outside, away from the house, preferably on a stone slab, but at least never within any structure nor on a wooden-floored porch. The reason is that even seemingly cold ashes can re-ignite and start a house fire. (Though if you've never burned the stove and the house has been empty for years the first dump is probably cold, but never assume that again unless it's been all summer without a fire.) This is a very important thing that people are occasionally careless about, with tragic consequences. I don't know if you recall the awful news reports a couple of years ago of a whole family, with many children, in an newly reno'd old house in CT that lost their lives because of a fire started by improperly disposed-of ashes and coals. Even though we dump our ashes and coals in a closed can, outside, I have more than once gone back a few days later to dump the next batch and found glowing embers still in the coals after days of being shut up. So, first make sure you have that ash pan installed and cleaned out before burning. And try to find the black cover that slides over it for carrying out to disposal area. The air that feeds the fire flows up through the ash bed, so if the under-stove pan is stuffed and there are too many ashes in the firebox, you will have a dickens of a time getting things going properly. You can find a good magnetic w/s thermometer at any store that sells w/s accessories. Expect to pay $10-15. If you can find one with a little half-round wire handle, buy it. I think they are better as they can be more easily moved. But if you can't, buy another kind since you can't operate the stove without one. The reason for that is that after you light the stove, let the fire build and settle down, and then based on temps measured at the center of the griddle on top, turn the left hand lever completely backwards (it will go past a slight resistance with a firm "snap" when it is properly positioned) to close the internal smoke door and force the exhaust pathway through the cat. You will hear a change in the sound of the stove, and you should see a fairly prompt rise (over minutes, not seconds) of temps on the top surface of the stove. This is the heat created by burning off the gases and particulates in the smoke, which is what the cat is doing - wringing the most amount of heat out of the fuel and at the same time cleaning up more of the residual particulates that are generated in a wood fire. This explanation is sort of coming in at the middle of an intial firing sequence, as a I don't know how experienced you are. I could start at the very beginning and go through it step by step, if that would help you. One other thing to verify (either by you or your sweep): is your stove connected to a dedicated outside combustion air feed? This will be a visible pipe (though it can be suqare or rectangular) that comes up and attaches to the lower back of the stove. It will the only thing back there, if it's there. It provides a closed delivery of air to the fire, essentially isolating it from the air in the room. This has important implications if you are installing the stove in house with a range or cooktop ventilation equipment in the smae space. A w/S without an outside air connection will complicate the make-air calculations for the vent hood, creating a code issue (possibly expensive to address) and more importantly a potential safety issue (carbon monoxide). So, all in all I'm hoping you tell me the original installers set it up with an outside air connection. You can retrofit it, but with a masonry hearth it will more complex. Do you have a cellar under that part of the house? Oh, one other thing, while you are at the w/s store pick up a spray bottle of whatever they recommend for cleaning the glass doors. This is usually a fiercely vile spray made from lye, but it does the job. Use lots of newspaper under the stove and in front, and heavy duty gloves and a roll of paper towels. Do not scrape, steel wool or use a scrubby on the glass. It is special borosilicate glass intended to withstand very high temps, but small scratches made during cleaning could compromise it causing it to fail catastrophically. But when the glass is clean, or at least clean-er, the flames are lovely to see. If you're feeling affection for the stove, you can buy a tin of stove blacking which will make it look like new (though the first few fires after blacking can be mildly stinky.) I can post pics of the ash-pan lid and the small snap-on firescreen so you can see what to keep an eye out for, if that will help. I don't know if you will be able to buy these parts new for older stoves as the shapes have changed, I think. And I realized after I had posted that I had misspoke in my first post: you have VC Defiant Encore stove. Do you plan to use the stove for significant heating or just from time to time? It is a workhorse, though you will need fuel for it, and that may be hard to come by the first year - and expensive. We burn ours 24/7 once we light it in late October until the end of April. Of course we do have to shut it down once a month or so for chimney cleaning/sweeping chores which can't be done if there's any lingering fire. You can empty the ashes when the stove is burning, though it's easier, and safer to choose a point when the fire is at an very low ebb to do that. We leave a fire in when we are away from home, and of course at night. We refuel around 11:30pm/midnight, and again in the morning (one of us is a night owl and the other an early bird, so it works out OK). In deep winter the house is quite cold by the morning, but the stove re-warms it fairly quickly. If you have subs working on the house I would advise you to refuse them permission to burn the stove, there's too much risk that they think they know what they are doing, when they really don't. That goes for teenagers, babysitters, house guests and etc. Running a stove safely is very serious business. Finally, do you have small (rug-rat age) kids or cats? Kids too young to appreciate the danger of a hot surface must be protected by a fire-guard screen around the hearth itself. The good news is that kids soon grow into an age when they won't accidentally get burned. Cats not so much. Not all cats, or even most, but some cats will jump on the stove while it's burning (500-650 degrees F on the top surface) and get terrible burns on their paws. I have one cat who has done it twice. Now we have a fence around the stove. I have had literally dozens of other cats (I do feral cat rescue) who have lived here with same stove and never jumped up. As I re-read what I wrote and remembered what you said about a break in, I thought I'd also mention that inside the stove there should be a pair of detachable 6" tall cast-iron andiron brackets in the front and a removable cast iron floor grate with diagonal oepnings set in the bottom of the stove. I mention this because these items would be easily detached by thieves and sold for scrap iron. (We had an old cast iron coal stove stolen from an outbuilding last spring.) If you stove has been stripped of these parts, you'll need to get them before any fire can be lit. Hope my long post is somewhat useful to you. Let me know if you want step by step lighting instructions. (For after the stove and chimney have been checked out and certified OK to go.) L....See MoreShower Remodel Affecting Downstairs Condo Unit Water Pressure
Comments (3)My suggestion would be to have him check the pressure when you are not doing anything in your bathroom. If he has a pressure problem still, then it has nothing to do with you since you aren't drawing water at that time. At least that's my thought! Hopefully a plumber will come on a give their 2 cents...See Morehusbands behaviour changed around sd - which affected relationship
Comments (8)A 20+ YO should not be throwing a tantrum about not wanting her father to get married again, etc., especially in your presence. Strange how some of these adult children seem to think they should have a say in who, what, when and how one of their parents remarry. Yet, when they were age 15 or so, I'm sure they thought they should be able to date, hang out with whomever they wanted. Anyway, your husband really should have been the one to handle this with her. He has celebrity bio-dad status. He needs to handle his own children, adult or not, or else they will be inclined to see you as a meddling, interfering be.atch. His monkey, his zoo. Not your monkey, not your zoo. However, in remarriage situations involving children (yes, even adult children), guilty dad syndrome often prevails. It can depend on how long dad and his kids have lived apart, but not always. Many divorced dads choose to have more of what they see as an "ideal" relationship with their children vs. a real one. Thus, in a way, the father-daughter relationship gets stuck in time, with dad attempting to be the type of super-dad his child always wanted, and his daughter forever being his little-sweets, so to speak. Now, this may seemingly work for father-daughter, but it is a big pain in the butt for most else, and certainly for a new SO or wife that comes along. Because, what can happen is the father-daughter relationship becomes elevated and twisted to the point that it is almost more like a husband-wife relationship; or, the daughter becomes sort of a mini-wife, doting over dad, scolding him, telling him what to eat, etc. So, when a new SO comes into the picture, she, very surprisingly, almost finds herself competing with the man's daughter for what should be the one-and-only wife role. The husband or dad rather than realizing he needs to treat his wife like a wife and his daughter like a daughter, can start acting like a wimp and putting his head in the sand, or acting like poor him for having to be in the middle. In reality, he needs to step up to the plate and act like both a real dad and a real husband. At one time it was probably cute having his daughter doting over him, but this has, more than likely, twisted over time to that point that it will more than likely negatively impact her relationship with men. Time for your husband to grow a pair and treat his daughter like the daughter she is and you, his wife, like the wife you are vs. agreeing with his daughter just to agree with her, and kowtowing to her on other issues, "Just to keep the peace." But, where does this leave you!? He may like to pacify his little-sweets, but you don't, I'm sure. You, want a husband. Work with him on this, and he'll have to deal with his daughter, and not you....See MoreLis Sowerbutts
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