Set mower on a box under the front, or rear.Where the wheel won't stay in adjustment. Try to turn the wheel around until the handle clears the notches on the adjuster. Then bend the handle in toward the mower deck. it is springy but can be bent in some. Then try the setting of the handle in the notches. It should be better.

Hello bestday. I'm willing to bet that there are a lot of people on this forum with this type of experience. But to get the big wheels turning, you have to provide your mower brand and model :) :) What ya got?

Clean and lubricate the ratchet inside the small gear on the end of the axle. There is a hole in the end of the axle for cleaning/lubricating these assemblies and it should be done every year. Take a toothpick/pipe cleaner and see if you can clean out the hole some before shooting anything in there. One of the best ways to clean it without disassembly is to use an aerosol spray solvent. I like 'Gun Scrubber' because it's safer on paint, etc. than brake or carb cleaner, but you can use those too. Spray the gear, turn it and spray more, particularly at the rear where it rubs on the axle. When you think you have it pretty good, now shoot it right into the lube hole in the axle. Keep cleaning until you hear no grittiness when turning the gear and you do hear the ratchet clicking. Now you can use the aerosol can of White Lithium Grease with the straw and shoot that into the lube hole. While wet, it also carries a solvent and will probably show some more dirt coming out. Repeat until clean. You might as well do the other side too before it locks up on you. Once you do this, the next time you probably can just use the spray grease. In fact, the spray grease alone might do the job - it depends on how cruddy the ratchets/springs are in there. Also clean the axle bolt, axle bushing inside wheel hub and driven gear on the wheel. Lube these with #2 NLGI grease or the spray lithium grease. If you have a grease gun (might be a good idea to get one of the small grease guns like at Wal Mart) you can inject grease into the lube hole after cleaning. My favorite mower wheel grease is.....don't laugh......Slick 50 'One Grease'. It's a #2 Teflon grease, green in color and sometimes can be found in little 1 oz tubs as well as the 14 oz gun tubes. Hope this hasn't been too rambling - I just wrote off the top of my head. It's a very messy job. I put a piece of 4x4 under the rear of the deck which gets both wheels off the floor and put a piece of cardboard or some newspapers under the rear of the mower. I'll put some solvent in a plastic pan and have a small paint brush, a toothbrush and some rags there for the job. When you take a rear wheel off, be aware of washers and how they are re-installed. If you can't get the ratchets to work in this way, you'll have to pull the gear as tomplum said, and replace pawls/springs as required. But chances are this 'in-situ' cleaning will fix it.

Self-propelled includes 2WD, 4WD, FWD and RWD. I actually do not see a real need for a 4WD mower. Like already said, your best bet is any Toro RWD mower, either Personal Pace or Variable Speed. They both are the same drive but with different control arrangement. The Toro system doesn't have a multi-speed 'transmission' - it just has a 'ring and pinion' reduction gear. Speed control is by tension on the constantly-slipping belt provided by the 'automatic' sliding handle in Personal Pace or a traditional bail handle in Variable Speed, my favorite. These drive belts are extremely tough - I have two mowers with them, a 2004 and a 2008 and have never had any trouble with the drive systems.