If your tracks are still there, I'd imagine the job will be a lot simpler! My doors hang from a track in the top of the opening without any track on the floor--of course, mine are only about 7.5 feet tall, and don't have any weights to help open them. On mine, there is molding next to the opening the door slides into, and that is removable with screws, giving a wider area to attach the doors to the tracks. On some older systems, you would have to remove the casing on the top of one side to access this track, but there were lots of different systems, so you just have to look at how the door trim is put together. My house was a bit later than yours, built in 1908 but I looked at a house twenty years ago when house hunting which had three sets of pocket doors--all hung from the top with no lower tracks, and that house was built in the 1890s. I lost out on that house and it is now gutted and empty last time I looked. (I had not been told right then that they showed it to someone else, and I'd have offered right then and not waited until morning. My offer was accepted as backup, but the other went through--pretty sure they were salvagers since it was never moved into, and was gutted. I was one of the last to see it all original--I would have bought it from the son and daughter of the original owner, so nothing had ever been painted over or modernized.)

I’m considering this as I made the terrible mistake of remodeling kitchen before moving into the home. Now that I’m actually experiencing the layout, I want to make a few changes. I spent a fortune on quartzite counters (completely seamless) and I want to remove them from the island and use them in my master bath. Here’s what I know, I’ve watched granite and quartz (not to be confused with real quartzite) get pulled off of cabinets and islands during 3 demos. Not once was there a break, crack, or any damage whatsoever...and this was just for a demo so they weren’t even being “careful” Even in this remodel, granite was removed from the island that I then replaced with the quartzite. That granite was in perfect condition and I actually gave it to one of the sub contractors to use in his home. Sadly, I think this is just something that fabricators don’t want to do because the truth is, they make the majority of their profit from the sale on the material. Someone will argue with me about this so I will provide my rebuttal in advance. Have you ever wondered why you can’t just walk into a slab warehouse and buy your stone? Same reason why they don’t list prices on the stones....it’s always low, mid, high, or “exotic”. The point is, the fabricator sets the price for the stone and the customer rarely knows the “real” cost of the slab. If you’re just gonna use a stone you already have, they can’t make a huge profit from you so it’s not worth their time. I think about this bs every time I watch someone pop off a huge stone counter top and take it out to a truck, where it will later be sold to someone else....even MORE profit. I found a piece of marble from my bathroom demo at my contractors slab warehouse, after he swore they “recycled/destroyed” everything. I knew it was mine because it had the little tiny stain from my daughter dying her hair in 8th grade. I prefer not to waste and fill land fills, but don’t deceive people for profit. So the headline here is, YOU CAN ABSOLUTELY RE-FABRICATE stone to use elsewhere....but good luck finding someone to do it. If you find someone that says “I won’t do it because it’s not worth the money” I suggest you keep their number because AT LEAST they are honest!

@bry911 thanks for responding. Found myself here while searching for ways to remove subfloor all the way to joists and build back up with new decking. I don’t plan to remove subfloor under exterior walls or the one interior wall in this space. Just inspect and replace everything necessary. I realized after moving in that the house was vacant for 15 years, bought and flipped. Roof has probably had several leaks for a long time, leading to a few surprises. I’m handy, but Im not a contractor, having to figure this out as I go. Whatever I do I want to make sure I don’t cut corners, or compromise the home in any way. Problem, 66’ home with cold floors, soft and sinking in a few locations. Vinyl flooring over subfloor and 10” joists, 24” on center, 4 foot tall crawl space, 3-5mil plastic vapor barrier (not taped or sealed to foundation wall) on ground. I’d like to strengthen up the floor, apply closed cell spray foam under the entire floor and put back up the bat insulation. If it’s going to cost $10,000 I simply can’t do it, I’ll have to patch fix and deal with it. If I can find a way to do it for cost of materials and a day laborer for a day or two, might be possible. Just one of multiple projects, backyard grading isn’t ideal either, have to tackle that too. :/. Wish there was a homeowners anonymous group I could come to, help others with their problems, potentially get help with mine.

The cabinets should have one or two long screws in the top back rail attaching cabinet to wall. It should also have two screws attaching the cabinets to each other through the front vertical frame pieces. You may be able to cut down the corner cabinet.