I decided long ago that 100% annuals and subtropicals was impractical and sacrificed early season interest, so when I established my adrenal-shaped hot color bed I planted a few shrubs and perennials to complement the short-term population. Oh wait, you were talking about 100% perennials. The perennial part of the garden is about 100% perennial, but some of those are temperennials (like the Salvia guaranitica that may or may not overwinter). Some perennial gardeners look down their noses at annuals (noted gardener Fred McGourty had an amusing take on this attitude), but annuals provide color and variety that add a lot. One of the best things about them is you can change and adapt quickly from year to year (the same old perennials can get boring, you don't have the heart to yank them out, and replacements can take years to really get going).

Interesting that this came up again. I had not ever ordered from VB4L. I stock a lot of belts. I would like others specific opinions on VB4L quality if you can. I do well on certain OEM belts from my main distributors price and quality wise. Honestly, there are a few that I have had a better track record with the Stens/ Thermoid than OEM. The aftermarket offerings can be a pick and choose. OEP over the years have changed belt specs on some. Very noticeable visable changes. I can say that the Stens/ Thermoid belts are problem free for me. Off hand ~30%ish are from them in my inventory of 130 different belts. I highly suggest them. Certain belts are Deere only as an example. The belt that I had started this thread over I'm lucky to install 2 in a year. Powerflo belts via Deere are a much better quality than aftermarket. That being said, I will put a wrapped Gates green belt or Thermoid on a given Powerflo type unit and get good service, but on a Deere- really like the OEM better. Never do I use a non OEM on a MTD VS drive as an example either. Some things you just know after a while.

KIM SAID: "But inland here, our sun, heat and aridity are just too extreme for oils to be safely used. If the product can be phytotoxic, our conditions will encourage it. Filter the sun enough through fog and other humidity, reduce the temperature extremes sufficiently and they can be quite effective, but definitely not here." *** Even here, closer to the coast, I've found most of the oils to be a very dicey thing to use. We've seen oiled foliage burn in temps in the high 70's. Recently, our weather has featured wild temperature fluctuations -- up or down 20 deg in a 24-hour period, making the use of oils really tricky. For me, in most cases, it's just easier to get rid of a rose that is so troubled. Jeri

I took Stacey's advice and ordered samples of other colors in the series. But they each have their strong dominant color. They don't blend colors much within a single tile, and yet slate has that going on all over the place. So we may just go with real slate, for the walls at least. I'm considering one of the wood-look tiles for the floors. Caught in the vortex of indecision at the moment! Thanks, Erica -- as it turns out, though, I think we're going with the tile shower floor after all, so the shower will be built with the bench. And thanks Bill - of course, the classic checkerboard! I would not have guessed there'd be that much variation in thickness within a series. (Of course, real slate has that also, so either way there will be more labor...) Am intrigued with quartz/quartzite, but that's another post....