I've used the Juno and Seagull version of this system for years, and the results are always excellent.

I saw this thread of posts regarding Seagull (low-voltage) Ambiance Lighting. Here's some responses to several questions. 1. "Clear or frosted bulbs?" Personally I would suggest 'clear' for task lighting, 'frosted' if you'll be able to see the actual bulb. 2. "5W or 10W bulbs?" I use 10 watt for task, 5 watt (in some cases) often for behind glass doors. As a rule, I generally use 10 watt. 3. "I can't find stranded 10/2 anywhere, only solid copper?" For the actual wire where the bulb holders clip in, you must use their 'stranded 10-2 wire' (9373-12 or 9373-15 : 100' rolls), available in white or black (yes it is pricey). If you purchase another brand of stranded 10-2, make sure it fits the Seagull wire holder. 3a. NOTE: BY CODE, YOU MAY NOT RUN THIS STRANDED CABLE IN THE WALLS OF YOUR HOME. Rough wire using Romex. 4. "...Dimmers?" If you're using a Magnetic tranformer, you should use a magnetic dimmer. They do cost more money. Remember, you are dimming the line voltage to the transformer ... not dimming the low voltage output from the transformer. 5. "...Spacing?" General rule of thumb is one bulb holder every 4 to 6". 6. "Since this is low voltage, there is not requirement that you use Romex, which you will not find stranded." UNTRUE! You cannot (by Code) run the 10-2 stranded in the wall. 7. "Isn't 10/2 a little heavy? Is it a 20A circuit? I'd think 12/2 would be fine for in-wall." Your wire inside the walls should be 10-2 Romex for 12 volt systems and (can be) 12-2 Romex for 24-volt systems. 8. As suggested in one post, DO make sure your low voltage output is properly fused. Just because it's low-voltage, don't think that it can't be dangerous. 9. Break up your 'homeruns'. For example: If you have lights to the left and right of the sink, make 2 separate homeruns. Likewise, left and right of the cooktop, 2 separate homeruns. Don't try to run the entire kitchen low-voltage system on one homerun. Splice/Junctions: You aren't supposed to do any splices in the wall. The Romex comes out below the cabinet int a Seagull (9459-12, 9459-15) 'Compartment/Splicer'. This will splice Romex to their stranded.

You can buy 3000K/800 lumen bulbs from 2 different manufacturers and they can look different. I would match the under cabinet light to the overheads as much as possible. But because the tape will be underneath cabinets -- and only illuminating a relatively small area -- the difference in the temperature may not be as immediately visible. You just want to be sure it's not super glary or too blue looking. Guest the best idea is to hook up one section in sitù to be sure. It's a tough one.

yes. LED light strips are basically a row of little tiny bulbs. since your counter is polished, they will likely reflect off of with in little dots of light that personally I think looks unattractive. worse, that might put out an unpleasant glare. the diffuser takes are of all that. (the "dots" would be more noticeable at night with less ambient light around, and also more noticeable with dark counters, but it can still happen with light colors.) if your counter was matte, that might not really be such a problem. but I can see yours is shiny.