I'm in the process of making the same decisions. The info on their site is not very clear at all, at least from the perspective of a DIYer.

The other issue I'm trying to figure out because I need to prewire this week is the best wire to use. They say their Ambiance cable is not rated for in wall use, so you need 10/2 Romex up until you pop out under the cabinet. I can't find stranded 10/2 anywhere, only solid copper. With 5 runs coming back to the transformer, I'd need a junction box the size of a bread box to make those connections with solid wire.

I would suggest the 10w frosted and use a dimmer. I do not believe Sea Gull changes their min spacing based on wattage.

Since this is low voltage, there is not requirement that you use Romex, which you will not find stranded. You can buy single stranded #10 at the big box stores, or an electrical supply house. Just be sure you properly fuse the them at the transformer.

Isn't 10/2 a little heavy? Is it a 20A circuit? I'd think 12/2 would be fine for in-wall.

You might also want to have multiple transformers spread out, that way you can make the wire runs shorter - there's a run length limit with low voltage based on the transformer and draw.

Regarding the bulbs, I'd recommend just buying a few of both and seeing which you like better in practice. Both work with the seagull linear system I believe.

Thanks for the replies, I was leaning toward the 10W frosted bulbs, would they be too bright without a dimmer?
I think I will buy a few of both bulbs and go from there.

They claim that 12/2 would limit the capacity to only 250 Watts @ 12V for the installation. They also said that because of the high wattage, even though it is Low Voltage, In-wall rated wire is necessary which is why they said you can't use their 10/2 Ambiance cable for any portion that is in-wall, only for the under cabinet portion.

I'm planning on the festoon bulbs also. Seagull said 2 lights per foot, but it seems most people are using 2.5 to 3 per foot.

The need for #10 will depend on the length of the run from the transformer, the voltage, and the total wattage of the bulbs. Keep in mind you are talking 12v not 120, line losses are a lot greater.

I have used 12/2 where the wattage is low and the runs short. I have also used #10 when the wattage is high and the run short. Sea Gull provides tables to help determine what you should use.

If it is by "run", then I doubt I'd have a problem with using 12/2. My longest cabinet section for a single run is only 54". Seagull gave me the impression that even if I had 5 separate runs back to the transformer, the size of each run was determined by the cumulative current carried by all runs combined.

Cpanther95,

Depends on how you are defining "run". If you have 54" of wire from the transformer to the transition to Sea Gull wire, you will probably be fine depending on the number of lights.

The number of bulbs cumulative would effect the sizing of the transformer. If you are running different size wires, you would want to fuse the secondary (output) of the transformer to the smallest size wire, or you could have multiple fuses.

You have two issues, one of safety to assure there is protection for over current. The other issue is that there is current loss in the wiring. Taken to the extreme, you could end up with a set of lights being dimmer than the rest due to a long run of smaller wire.

I saw this thread of posts regarding Seagull (low-voltage) Ambiance Lighting. Here's some responses to several questions.

1. "Clear or frosted bulbs?" Personally I would suggest 'clear' for task lighting, 'frosted' if you'll be able to see the actual bulb.

2. "5W or 10W bulbs?" I use 10 watt for task, 5 watt (in some cases) often for behind glass doors. As a rule, I generally use 10 watt.

3. "I can't find stranded 10/2 anywhere, only solid copper?" For the actual wire where the bulb holders clip in, you must use their 'stranded 10-2 wire' (9373-12 or 9373-15 : 100' rolls), available in white or black (yes it is pricey). If you purchase another brand of stranded 10-2, make sure it fits the Seagull wire holder.

3a. NOTE: BY CODE, YOU MAY NOT RUN THIS STRANDED CABLE IN THE WALLS OF YOUR HOME. Rough wire using Romex.

4. "...Dimmers?" If you're using a Magnetic tranformer, you should use a magnetic dimmer. They do cost more money. Remember, you are dimming the line voltage to the transformer ... not dimming the low voltage output from the transformer.

5. "...Spacing?" General rule of thumb is one bulb holder every 4 to 6".

6. "Since this is low voltage, there is not requirement that you use Romex, which you will not find stranded." UNTRUE! You cannot (by Code) run the 10-2 stranded in the wall.

7. "Isn't 10/2 a little heavy? Is it a 20A circuit? I'd think 12/2 would be fine for in-wall." Your wire inside the walls should be 10-2 Romex for 12 volt systems and (can be) 12-2 Romex for 24-volt systems.

8. As suggested in one post, DO make sure your low voltage output is properly fused. Just because it's low-voltage, don't think that it can't be dangerous.

9. Break up your 'homeruns'. For example: If you have lights to the left and right of the sink, make 2 separate homeruns. Likewise, left and right of the cooktop, 2 separate homeruns. Don't try to run the entire kitchen low-voltage system on one homerun.

10. Splice/Junctions: You aren't supposed to do any splices in the wall. The Romex comes out below the cabinet int a Seagull (9459-12, 9459-15) 'Compartment/Splicer'. This will splice Romex to their stranded.

What is meant by properly fused?