I did my whole showroom in Hafele. Did the install myself. Simple to do. They are dimmable. You plug a dimmer controller into the driver. Simple. Warm White lower wattage for up lighting, warm white higher wattage for under cabinet. Drivers inside corner cabinet, hidden by basket. Warm white higher voltage also hidden behind face frame of corner cabinet to light it. The electrical outlet is underneath the right side of the corner cabinet, and the occupancy sensor switches are under the corner cabinet. They aren't pretty. But, they have to be visible to detect motion. [Traditional Wine Cellar[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-wine-cellar-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_755~s_2107) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis Cool White, except under glass cabinets, which is warm white. Controller/dimmer to left of sink, right where the electrical outlet is that powers the install. Driver on top of cabinets. Wires run through cabinet interior, hidden by face frame. Glass cabinet tape lights hidden behind face frame to light cabinet interior. The outlet and driver for this section is on top of the wall. [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis Warm White, dimmer controlled underneath cabinet to the left next to oven, where the power originates. Driver is in top glass cabinet, with control wire run through cabinets hidden behind face frame. [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis

I've never had a client complain that their undercab lights were too bright - go 400 to 500 or higher, but look for a dimmable system so you can turn them down for a dinner party. And be careful with the brand you select. If you go with the cheap ones from Amazon, they produce a green tint to the light. A better brad like WAC has a much whiter light, a better cri, and a lower failure rate. Tresco is another brand - they offer the widest variety in selection, color, lumens, and mounting options. As you plan the system, make sure you can get to everything and replace components if needed. The transformers are the first thing to go, but the leds do have a failure rate as well.

In my experience, LEDs put out a sharp, sometimes harsh light. The more diffuse and distant they are from surfaces, the better.

There already is a built-in one-inch light rail integrated into the cabinets (i.e. the underside of the cabinet is about an inch deep). Designer said at the outset when I asked this question in December that we would not need additional light rails because of that integrated rail. I think the issue is really just that the electrician chose thicker LED bars (I did not see them before install). I should have specced them myself, but did not. I know that is on me. In my defense, this is a whole house project that has been going on since November, this is my first major renovation, and I am also in the middle of selling my current home. So tired! Lawrence, to answer your other questions. 2. Hard wired. 3. There are three separate banks of UCLs on separate switches in different areas of the kitchen. The UCLs within each bank are linked together. 4. As currently installed there are wall switches AND switches on the lights themselves. No dimmer. 5. Countertop is honed 6. I am not sure of the light temperature. I think they said around 2800K.