This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

When I read the subject I was thinking about the same:while floor-to-tile is great for a minimalistic look it eats an extra couple inches in the process. I've got a very similar bath that I did few months back. We did not do floor-to-ceiling tiles but making the space look wider was certainly on our mind. I'm guessing that your vanity will be along the long wall (there's not much scope to have it anywhere else). A large mirror (not a framed one; because framed ones tend to run small and do not cover wall-to-wall expanse) covering a considerable expanse of the wall would open up the space. As an example, our mirror runs across the vanity and stretches all the way over the toilet; and ends where shower tiles begin. Height-wise, it starts just above the vanity and extends upto a light fixture. Also, Choose bath rugs etc that could be laid in a linear pattern across the floor -- they will streth the eye sideways. Don't worry; you will be fine after the mirror. A mirror does open up the space. Do post pix for us all to see! Here is a link that might be useful: My finished bath thread

I have remodeled 4 bathrooms (2 were a full gut) and working on 2 more in my own home right now. Cost is very subjective but if you have a new vanity and new, sink, toilet, etc...the cost wont be that bad. If the house is from the 80's or newer, it should be pretty simple. Tear out is a great place to save money. Its hard labor but it is easy work. I live in the DFW area and you can rent a 12yd dumpster for $250 which you should be able to junk everything in it. If you have time, you can slowly put it out in the trash. If you have any DIY skills, you can plumb your own fixtures. Sweating copper pipe is easy and there are tons of videos on youtube. Use maap gas, not propane (yellow bottle). Using a prefab pan probably wont work unless it is the exact dimensions. If it is 5', then you might have a change of a prefab pan that they sell to replace tubs. There are plenty of products out there that help you get the correct pitch on the floor slope if you cant to prefab. Mixing a mud pan is simple (cement, sand, water) until you get a damp sandy mixture. I would look into good sealing techniques (better than a 6ml liner). Something like Kerdi or hydroban. Tile...its not hard but it takes time and patience. A decent tile saw isnt cheap and renting one is probably $70/day. A good place for tile is floor and decor. We have bought lots of tile from there and they have great prices. I guess this all comes down to how much you want to do yourself. Most remodeling is not hard, just labor intensive. Im not a professional but have remodeled plenty of bathrooms and kitchens. The house the fiance and I bought, we completely gutted the house and now are starting the building phase. We do our research and have the simple mechanical skills to do the work and the drive. I refuse to pay $65/hr to an electrician to rewire my house with all the walls out. Any monkey can pull wire. A smart mokey can wire a circuit breaker box (there is only 3 wires per outlet unless its a 3 way switch, 240v outlet or something like a ceiling fan). Youtube is an amazing resource.

Susie the bathroom does not exist yet lol! It will be rather small though, which is actually a good thing because I’d rather buy less tile & get something of high quality. It will be going on our second floor once we finish dormering our cape. All I know for sure is: * I’m planning on a larger shower in lieu of a tub. Unless UTIs suddenly become less terrible, I won’t be taking any baths anyway. Plus we have one downstairs. * I’m planning on floor to ceiling glass doors in the shower. * I kind of want a skylight? Is that crazy? * No subway tile (unless it barely resembles subway tile like in the examples below). Typical subway tile is too uniform for my taste. I think I prefer my tile to have more individual character. * I’d like some natural stone because I think it’s pretty & timeless. However somebody here mentioned it’s hard to take care of and that is a totally legitimate concern that I haven‘t considered. * I’m really trying to avoid anything trendy but I also really dig zellige tiles so I guess I’m planning on breaking my own rules. * Ideally I’d like to stay with “natural” colors. Warmer whites, maybe black?, stone, maybe like a light sage green (used sparingly) * None of that ”all grey farmhouse” nonsense that’s taken over New Jersey. I’ve incorporated a lot of warmth into my home in protest of this dying trend. * I don’t have the guts to use a patterned tile : / and perhaps most importantly: * I like mixing texture & finish- hence the interest in zellige tile