Yes, we can and do have fall gardens. We plant fall beans in early Aug. Sounds late for zone 6, but I am in a microclimate next to a large body of water that holds off frost until very late in the fall, unless we have one of those real severe cold fronts blow in from Canada in October. Kale will winter over in the open garden. The usual turnips, spinach, and lettuce. Somewhere I have a chart of what can be planted and when... by seed and another for putting out plants. Also keep a chart of when to start flats of seed for planting in spring and fall. I have pulled suckers off of tomatoes in late June/early July to root for a later crop that runs into fall. Any of the coles can be started from seed in a flat and planted out, but I would have to look for the chart to tell you when. I prefer fall beans to those that get caught by bugs and warm weather. Many crops we don't mess with because we have plenty from the spring garden. We have a good 1/2 acre in gardens, plus fruit trees, blueberries, and 93 asparagus plants. (don't ask how they ended up uneven numbered) I started them from seed about 19 years ago and I guess my measurer was off when I transplanted to the permanent plot...it sure won't divide by 5 rows. Actually, I am starting to drag my feet over all this gardening...back hurts too much to want to keep it up.

Using Scott's starter was fine (expensive, but fine). In this case, it looks like you're starting to see the impact of encroaching summer on a lawn planted at the wrong time. For now, continue to water unless it completely blasts out. Which it might, depending on the weather. Then reseed in August just as temperatures begin to drop off their highs, which will have the grass sprouting just a bit later, and laying down root mass as fall moves in and the weather is completely compatible with root growth. By next summer, that lawn will be a lot more durable, although you'll still need more watering than you would on a mature lawn. For seeding a lawn, 2 to 3 light water applications per day are preferable, 1 to 2 is required. Then back off slowly as the grass starts to mature, increasing the length of the irrigation while backing off how often it happens. The ultimate goal is to end up with a lawn that can go 7 to 14 days on one irrigation in reasonable weather, half that in very hot weather.

I'm west of you in Martinsville, VA and also had awesome results from overseeding last fall, but made 2 mistakes which I will remedy this year: 1. No pre-M in fall, which resulted in massive Chickweed bloom that I had to battle into late spring. I'm adding Tenacity at overseeding and a pre-M 6-8 weeks later as well. 2. No fungicide in spring, which resulted in large Brown Spot outbreak in May and killed a lot of my new grass in the back yard. So, next April-May (when nightly temps hit 70F), I'll be putting down a fungicide. I like your plan and agree with the above posts. Good luck and pray for rain soon!!

Japanese stiltgrass