I am not any further on the counter :) But I am still planning on using the ply as an underlay. Unless I don't, lol. The soapstone that I have on hold has a small ding in the surface. I can repair it by using epoxy and ground soapstone "crumbs". Then when dry it sands nicely and you really don't see it. I haven't actually bought the stone I have on hold, but its not going anywhere. They might have other remnants soon. I think I will drive there tomorrow and reassess the "ding" and maybe just go with it instead of waiting for something else to turn up. Just got the under cabinet LED lights installed today. I am still working on the crown at the top. I have one length in and have to cut a piece to finish it up. The space is to tight for me to fasten the crown as instructed. I am using extra strong velcro, that will hold 1lb/sqin. It has been working well for the top crown. I used velcro to attach the filler strips to the 2x4 backing at the ends of the cabinets too. It was great. The instructions for my style of crown have you attach the crown at the bottom of the uppers in a way that is not a good method. They have you directly screw through the bottom of the crown and up into the cabinet box. There is a narrow foam strip that gets applied between the crown and box which looks like it is used to block the gap between, so under cabinet lights don't show through. The foam works, but the screws don't finish flush. The screw heads are so obvious. I am going to back each screw out, one at a time, and counter sink the hole so the screw head will be recessed. Then I can cover the holes with a plug or wood filler. I would post a picture of my under cabinet lights but I haven't been able to post pictures for several days now. I don't know what gives.

"Does "triangulation" mean having a third side to the bracket?" Yes. A piece is welded between the 90 degree sides. "How do you shim them back to flush? On the top?" Yes. Some plastic laminate ripped to width would be perfect; it's non-compressive. "I'm not sure I understand "through bolt the tubes". Does that just mean we would drill holes through the tubes and bolt them to the cabinets?" Yes.

This has really turned into a mixed topic thread - but I'm back to the original overhang support issue. I checked out the supports in the link Katrina posted and Joe said he thought were good. They all require notching the top edge of the cabinet. With IKEA, there is that metal bar that spans the tops of their base cabinets from side to side in the front as well as the back. That's what actually supports the counter and it obviously can't be notched. So I'm back to my original idea which was to run a steel tube bar across the span supported by pony walls on each end of the overhang. (Joe said the fabricator could even embed this into the solid surface but I'm not sure I would bother with that). I would put bar about 6 inches from the edge of the counter - midway of the 12" overhang depth. I understand that we need to be sure the top edge of the bar is perfectly flush with the top edge of the counter supports on the cabinets (those pesky metal bars that IKEA uses on top of the base cabinets). Is there any reason that wouldn't work? I am trying to contact my fabricator to discuss this, but in the area where I am doing this kitchen, there are no nearby IKEA's so I'm pretty sure he wont even understand how IKEA cabinets are made.

Sorry Sophie. I'm out of the house due to renovations and had connectivity issues. I'm uploading a picture of the peninsula (long side and short side) and an overall layout for the kitchen. The issue is the left side cabinet under the long side opens under the peninsula, and the right side cabinet open on the side without the overhang. So I hang hang brackets on the right side cabinet back, but am concerned about the space between bracket at the very end of the left side which will be attached to the wall. It's then 24" until the back of the right cabinet. Sorry -for the duplicates - this is the short side panel that will have a corner angle bracket and no issue because all brackets can be affixed to the back of the cabinet below. This is a copy of the long side of the peninsula, where the cabinet opens under the underhang. The far left will have a bracket mounted to the wall. Any way to have a bracket before the 21" cabinet that is next ends?? with a 3" filler I'm worried that with such a deep overhang its weak to go so long without a bracket. Thanks, R