The path at least could be entirely crushed rock which would be more practical to walk on because unlike with individual stones you don't have to watch where you are stepping. Since it sounds like you are in a pretty cold area east of the Cascade Mountains where summers are likely to be arid and hot be sure to check all suggested trees for their ability to survive your climate throughout the year. Not just the lowest winter temperatures but also the desert like circumstances during the summer. This latter occurrence can be pretty limiting, with otherwise cold tolerant species burning up during the growing season. For instance when I was a student at WSU located in the Palouse wheat country of SE WA the only example of Cornus florida - seen everywhere west of the Cascades - known by me to be present was planted on a small island in the center of a pool that was itself enclosed by one of the campus buildings (but open to the sky, of course). I took it to mean that it was thought this kind of tree needed the humidity and shelter of this planting situation to succeed in that geographical location. Similarly the one place on campus they had saucer magnolias - otherwise another cold climate favorite, commonly seen in moister climates - was in the shadow of a building.

Projection is your biggest problem here, for example, the one you like sticks out 8''..... now the weight of the fixture is going up so that is a plus, but being able to sit under it and not bop your head on the bottom of it is another problem. I would move the wire up another 2 feet and fill in the current hole this way you can get the proper type of light there and it wont be in the way.

Thanks for the additional comments. decoenthusiate - That is a sofa and loveseat at right angles to each other. There are two pieces of furniture. (I did not add furniture digitally.) PPF & Lorraine - It's a ranch house, so there's no second floor. But we're not crazy about the sun tunnel idea for several reasons: potential for leaks, less control over how much light comes in, etc. (This room is generally where we watch TV. So we want a way to control the brightness/glare during the day, if necessary.) ShadyWillowFarm - The beams are wood and are decorative only. Maybe my original post was too open-ended. Let me revise it. The room is plenty bright at night with the cans (and whatever new, updated lighting/lamps we add). However, we want more natural daylight in the room during the day. So...we want to add a window despite the misgivings of those who've commented so far. Questions: 1. We thought we could mimic the style of the kitchen window for consistency. Would it make sense to do something even wider? Granted, a 77” window similar to the kitchen window would leave only about 3’ of wall on either side, so there’s not a whole lot wider it could be. But still worth thinking about? 2. Aesthetically, should any new window be centered on the wall? 3. Once we get a window, should the sofa be centered under it? Or could it be offset? (Right now it’s directly opposite a wall-mounted flat screen TV which is centered on its wall.) It’s in a good spot and I hope we can get away with not centering the sofa under a window. Thanks again!

I would paint the olive green areas a white shade white for starters. What is behind the brown door now? Assuming its a pantry ?? but not sure..... You want to mimic a fridge with your cabinets ? If its a pantry now what is the problem to take it away and put expensive work into the same spot for basically similar storage ??? . If you wanted an appliance there.... or counter ..or it was key in your configuration.... in that sense ...but what is the pantry all about now? here are additional images of spaces with ceiling pitch/ bulking cabinets upward isnt always the best. Might be wise to look at the kitchen as a whole/ this area of the home w a cohesive plan. Your kitchen looks older and dark...what is the lighting? RE: the beam ? just one ? ..beams are an accent ..... but are there other more important issues?