Tomato Plants - Leaf Health Issues
I'm currently growing 4 varieties of determinate tomatoes. Below are the stats with descriptions below the pictures. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!
- Grown from seed
- 4 weeks old
- Grown using High Pressure Aeroponics (roots sprayed with very fine nutrient mist)
- Reservoir
- ppm: 800
- pH: 6.0
- Temp: 70F
- Environment
- Day Temp: 75-78F
- Night Temp: 68-70F
- Humidity: 60%
- Lights on: 16hr/day
- Lights: 4ft, 2 bulb T5 VHO
Pic 1. Minor leaf curl with "leathery" texture
Pic 2. Significant leaf curl/twisting?
Pic 3. Leaf twisting
Pic 4. This variety looks very limp. Some branches have turned upside down.
Pic 5. Branches upside down. Limp.
Pic 6. Leaf curling up
Pic 7. White/tan spot. This might be sunburn from getting to close to the lamp?
Pic 8. Only 1 leaf on 1 plant like this. The leaf is black, dry, and almost dead
Pic 9. Closer look at black leaf
Pic 10. More leaf curl
Comments (10)
Danen Pool
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
Leaves on top of Tomato Plant wilting. No other issues present.
Comments (1)If it's part of the main stem, something happened to it just below the wilted part. Follow the stem down from the tip as you look for a hole from critters and/or a break (or fracture) of the stem....See MoreTomato Plant Leaf Issues, Maybe Sunburn or Disease?
Comments (7)i doubt it ... more like individual cells burst.. which sometimes happens with excess rain ... i am pretty sure there is a tomato forum .. where the real T kooks hang out.. lol .. just keep in mind.. about 99% of that leaf is still functioning ... so at this point its only cosmetic damage ... and i am thinking.. those are the lowest.. oldest leaves ... what do the newest growth point look like ... that is where i look to see the vigor of the plant .. or the newest of the bug .. if any ... ken...See MoreIssue with Cherokee Purple Tomato - Should I remove plant?
Comments (9)Look at it this way - even if it was a disease of some kind that wouldn't mean you would need to pull the plant. All the common diseases are air borne fungus spores or bacteria so the odds are if one plant has it so do the others already. So you do what you need to control and treat the disease once you know which one it is. Like Chris my first thought was nitrogen burn since it is just the tips and edges of a few new leaves. And that is still possible even if you haven't fed them. But when it is such a small amount of damage and the rest of the plant looks perfectly healthy then 9 times out of 10 it is just environmental damage such as you discovered. Next most likely cause when we see something like this is a pest issue. Only when those issues have been ruled out do we need to start thinking about diseases. Dave...See MoreTomato leaf issues - need help, pls
Comments (1)Spraying Tums on the plant is a silly myth. It's food grade calcium carbonate, same as egg shells or limestone, without the sulfate and other impurities. Yes it has calcium but also carbonate, a salt of carbonic acid, and higher land plants have no transporters for bicarbonate (HCO3−) or need for it. (humans and ocean plants do.) So the carbonate dries on the leaves and like dust on house plants, it blocks the stomatal pores of the plant and can't absorb carbon dioxide or expel oxygen. If you want to make your own sprary change the source of calcium to calcium chloride or calcium nitrate. Chloride and nitrate are also salts but the plant can transport and use them. You can crush those tums and add to the soil for the calcium but most causes of BER is from irregular watering especially in container grown tomatoes and a drip irrigation system is the best cure for that....See More
hex2006
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoDanen Pool
8 years agohex2006
8 years agoI`m currently running 2sec 5minutes (day) and 1sec 10minutes (night) in my 300L outdoor veg chamber. The plants went in on friday afternoon so i`m overdoing the mist until the roots clear the netpots. Once the roots are a decent size i`ll transfer them into one of the larger chambers until the frost gets them. typically .around the end of october or early/mid november if i`m lucky.
You`ll have an easier time dialling in the timer settings with a fixed light intensity compared to using the sun.
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roots · More InfoDanen Pool
8 years agohex2006
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoWhite fly lavae are preferable to mites :) It should be easy to tell the difference as mites are a lot smaller you`ll need a good magnifying glass to spot them.
At the minute i`m running around 400ml per plant per day. The chamber is 300L and its necessary to overmist in the early stages to ensure the netpots get enough mist. Once the roots get going i cut back on the mist as they intercept more of it.. Here`s an inside view of the small chamber
Danen Pool thanked hex2006Danen Pool
8 years agoThank Hex! The plants are still growing very quickly. However, I'm still having some issues with the leaves. The below are of mostly older leaves. Could this be a Calcium - Magnesium deficiency or nutrient burn?
hex2006
8 years ago
hex2006