If you have a custom shop around, they can build it.


If you don't, build a base to make up the difference and used finished end skins to cover the sides if they are exposed. You end up with about a 10" toekick instead of 4.5"

Barker, scherrs, etc

alidanae:

Blocking up the cabinet and covering the patched base is the easy part. It's spanning the 55" of the appliances that gets tricky. There are many ways and materials, but this detail must be resolved for a permanent installation.

It's not only the piece of custom steel that will be needed to support that span, it's the required access to the supply hoses, drain standpipe, and electrical outlets that has to be designed into the plan so that maintenance and service can occur. Not to mention that at 40''H, the counter won't likely meet the manufacturer's clearance requirements for the appliances, and the sink will be almost unusable.

Taylor, thanks so much. Now that you described that I can see some of the examples online have the higher toekick. That's probably what we'll do instead of spending the extra for a custom made cabinet.

Joseph, are you talking about the countertop? If so, yes, that's our next conondrum. My husband and I were talking about it this morning and he thinks finding a stone piece deep enough to cover the W/D and cabinet will be tough without having it custom cut. I'm wondering if the seamless counter isn't the best idea. Since we're going with a smaller sink and base, I thought the seamless counter would give us the illusion of a larger space...and more counter area. If you were referring to the counter, do you have any other material ideas besides wood and stone? I don't think wood is a good idea on top of the washer and dryer as I tend to lay out wet clothes there and don't want to warp the wood over time. Thanks.

Sophie, there's access if you pull out the W/D, so we plan on making sure there's enough space on either side to pull them out. They won't be permanently built in. We've also got valves in the basement in case we need to quickly turn off the water. But you do bring up a very good point about the manufacturer's clearance requirements above the W/D. How are all the examples I see online doing the seamless counter over to the sink then? We're still down to studs so we've got time to address everything. Thanks so much.

alidanae:

As I mentioned, there are a lot of ways to make the span, you just have to pick your tradeoffs. You can have a 3/4" panel between the appliances with a matching raised toe kick. You can do a solid surface top with Unistrut on edge and an apron to cover it; a custom steel frame between the walls painted flat black and stone on top. Whatever, just pick the material and make the trade offs.