pouring foliar fertilzer into the soil
kelogs
8 years ago
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lazy_gardens
8 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Fertilzer for blueberries and raspberries
Comments (8)newslang: There is no "ideal" NPK formulation for blueberries and raspberries, but you are certainly correct that the types of fertilizers for these two berries are different. Raspberries will accept any ordinary balanced fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 in small amounts. But mulch around the plants is more important than fertilizer to growing healthy raspberries. Very high nitrogen fertilizers, such as those used on lawn grasses with an N number in the high 20's or low 30's should be avoided. Fertilizers appled in liquid form, such as Miracle Grow, are also fine, but calibrate your fertilization to the appearance of the plants. If they are dark green, healthy and growing, just put on more mulch. You should never use any ordinary 3-number nitrate-based fertilizer on blueberries, although your use of peat moss in the soil mix was completely correct for this plant. If you want to use a high-nitrogen fertilizer, it must be an acidic fertilizer such as ammonium sulphate. That is what I use around my plants. Miracid liquid fertilizer is also good, as are Hollytone, cottonseed meal, and coffee grounds if you don't want so much concentrated nitrogen. But the application of an acidifier such as iron sulphate is often more important to blueberries than fertilizer. Iron sulphate supplies a good amount of iron as well as acidifying the soil. I don't do soil tests either, but determine the fertilizer needs of my plants based on the vigor and appearance of their growth. But there is no single, ideal formula for berries. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA...See MoreRhodies/Azaleas and Foliar Nematodes
Comments (2)The University of Minnesota in [ http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/p151nematodesfoliar.html ] state: Aphelenchoides fragariae have broad host ranges and are capable of infecting hundreds of species of plants. In addition to broad host range, there are few effective nematicides labeled for home use. In [ http://www.ipmimages.org/browse/detail.cfm?imgnum=5337023 ] they show a photo of damage on an azalea showing the v-shaped holes. They are listed as pests of both rhododendron and azaleas, though not much is reported on this, so the occurrence must be very rare There are reports from Belgium and Brazil....See MoreFoliar Feeding
Comments (64)"I read where you were careful not to let the foliar feed drip into the soil, but (and maybe I just overlooked it), I don't see anywhere that you said you were giving the non-foliar plants the same additional food through the roots?" I am embarrassed to discover that I neglected to include that information in my report. Not that it would have affected the results but, for the sake of completeness, it should have been included. I do not remember if I provided any nutrition to the roots beyond what was in the seed starting mix; ProMix BX. My normal practice with seedlings is to start giving them a weak solution of fish emulsion when they have two sets of true leaves. This is what I would have done if I provided any root feeding and I would have done it to both groups. However, I suspect that the only feeding I gave in this experiment was to the foliar fed group. "From my experience, the question isn't "Can plants absorb water and nutrients through the leaves", but "Is foliar feeding more effective than simply pouring it directly into the soil?" That is one of several questions posed by readers. But, as you correctly understood, the one and only question I was attempting to settle was whether plants can absorb useful amounts of soluble nutrients through their leaves. Once again, I encourage other gardeners to undertake experiments to satisfy their curiosity about various gardening topics. I assure you it's a fun, inexpensive and satisfying activity. Jim...See Morefoliar feeding
Comments (17)I take a 1ltr. Yogurt container and put an inch or so of dolomite lime in it and fill it with 5% white vinegar(don't use wine vinegar etc.). Stir it and it fizzes. I cover it with plastic wrap.A tight lid will pop off - gas from the reaction. When it stops fizzing stir it until it stops fizzing. I stir it and put my hand over it to feel the bubbles. It doesn't fizz that much. Once it doesn't fizz anymore it's ready. Add 2-3 oz. to 2 gal. of water and go for it.I use a pump sprayer to give my pots an equal amount of nutes after watering. I think watering first washes out any excesses and that way i don't worry about too much of anything building up. I use it as a soil fert with my fish and seaweed. I think it triggers budding and makes more buds than without it. It seems like within a couple days after using it the plants start budding heavily. I use it hardly at all for the growth stage of the plant but as soon as I see a bud I use it every time I use ferts. Your millage may vary. I grow in pots only so eventually everything gets washed out since I mostly water until water comes out the bottom of my pots. I go back a while later and water again if it's hot out. I use a fast soil mix. Heavier mixes might be different. I just add more vinegar every time I use the stuff and stir it up. The liquid gets a skin on it from sitting around between uses but it doesn't smell or anything. It pulls right off in 1 piece easily. The liquid underneath is clear. I stir it whenever I think of it because the lime packs down from sitting and I want as much lime to disolve as the acid can handle so my mix is always the same. I used to add bone meal and dolomite lime to all my mixes but now I just use the witches brew at budding in general and if the leaves look wrinkled on my chinense. Chinense seem to like a little extra CalMag. i don't mess with epsom salt either anymore. Been using it for a few years and it works for me. Not broke,don't fix it... I don't grow tomato weeds but I hear it's great for them as a foliar and soil additive or whatever. I used to use Foli Cal at $8.00 - $10.00 a pint. It's Cal. Acetate which is basically what you will be making. I don't know how to tell when all the disolvable lime is used up so every 4 months or so I change the lime out. I mix the old stuff,which is probably impurities,in my soil mixes just because I hate tossing stuff that might still be good for the plant out. I don't think I've used more than a 3 LB bag of lime in a couple years. Plants don't need that much Ca. and Mag compared to other stuff so it goes a long way....See Morekelogs
8 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agokimmq
8 years agokelogs
8 years agotoxcrusadr
8 years agokimmq
8 years ago
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