So here is an update. I did buy beneficial nematodes. First batch was the Steinerneima Feltiae from Amazon (Scanmask is the company). Weeks later I see no difference. I even set up a rubbermaid 18 gallon bin filled with 4-5 inches of compost that was moist and used the remainder of the beneficial nematodes mixed in the compost well and then I introduced several grubs and mealworms expecting them to be dead in 48 hours or so. Weeks later the worms are still alive and so are the grubs, so I am guessing the beneficial nematodes weren't even alive. Before I saw the lack of results from the first batch, I bought 2 other varieties from buglogical.com (Heterohabditis and the Steinernema Carpocapsae). With the 3 different strains of Beneficial Nematodes I was expecting joy but several weeks later I still see no difference. With these 3 varieties I should not still see ant mounds or slugs or the grubs. By the way I ordered 50 million of the last 2 varieties in which they claim 50 million would cover a half acre. The area I treated was less than 1/10 of an acre, heck probably 200 square feet. Using 2 of the 50 million batches is would effectively cover a whole acre and I still don't see results in a small 200 sq foot area which tells me these things weren't alive. I also started 2 other containers with compost and added 2 different strains in each container and added mealworms and grubs and they werent dead within 2 or 3 days and are still alive today over 2 weeks later, again telling me the beneficial nematodes were not alive. So to make a long story short $200 spent and no results. Very disappointed.

Beneficial nematodes work very well for killing grubs, fleas, ants and a lot of other pests.. They will live for a long time as long as the soil doesn't dry out completely. Again, do your homework on how and when the best times are to apply. There's lots of information online. Pets are sometimes harmed by chemical grub killers and who knows who else that might through a recently treated area barefooted.

Quack grass is really difficult to get rid of because even a small bit of the rhizome left behind with a node will grow into a clump in a relatively short time. My experience is that you will need to edge each planting bed annually and vigorously remove any and all of the plants, with the root system, you find. The so called "weed killers" can offer some control if applied annually, as many farmers have found.

Michigan State University recommends Option 1: Management Many folks have effectively “eliminated” quackgrass by masking its presence in the lawn. This is usually accomplished by increased nitrogen fertilization and increased mowing frequency. (Just what everyone wants, mowing more often!) This approach has been implemented with relative success by more than a handful of turf managers. The idea is that the quackgrass only has a competitive advantage when the desirable grass sits idly by. By increasing the vigor of your lawn you will choke the quackgrass, make it darker green and, for the most part, make it disappear. This method could be accomplished by fertilizing your lawn with 0.25 to 0.5 pounds nitrogen per 1,000 square feet every two weeks during the growing season. If this ends up being one of those dry summers, you would definitely want to suspend this program because unless you’re irrigating, the turf will not be able to use the nitrogen. If you follow this program, you will notice that the quackgrass patches are much smaller next spring. Could someone please check my math. When using 29-0-3 lawn fertilizer If I was to spread 0.5 pounds every two weeks would it be approximately 3.45 pounds of fertilizer for 2000 sq ft? Thanks